She's whipped back into shape again (pics)
- Thread starter Jason 302
- Start date
Thanks guys. It feels good to work on the ole girl again...it's been a while and I have a lot of parts that I never installed (like the coil over kit).
Got the drivers side finished today. Had to play with the coil-overs a little bit to get the ride height I wanted.
I have it sitting just a smidge lower than it was with 4 cylinder springs, hopefully I don't run into bumpsteer. The tie-rods look to be fairly close to being parallel with the A-arms, but not perfect. I have some offset rack and pinion bushings, but I'm not sure I can pull the rack forward enough with the engine in the car. Sounds like I'll have to do a search to see if anybody has done such a thing.
Got the drivers side finished today. Had to play with the coil-overs a little bit to get the ride height I wanted.
I have it sitting just a smidge lower than it was with 4 cylinder springs, hopefully I don't run into bumpsteer. The tie-rods look to be fairly close to being parallel with the A-arms, but not perfect. I have some offset rack and pinion bushings, but I'm not sure I can pull the rack forward enough with the engine in the car. Sounds like I'll have to do a search to see if anybody has done such a thing.
Okay, another update. Just to be clear, I live in Ohio and won't be able to drive this thing for a few months. So I won't have any "driving" updates for a while. So the restoration/mods continue.
I've had a vibration in my front end for the last couple years. I found out this morning that the rack & pinion and/or inner tie-rods are shot. SO. I ordered a reman rack & pinion from LRS (15:1 ratio) today. I also will be installing the offset polyurethane bushings that I've had laying around forever.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...wer-Steering-Rack-And-Pinion-15-1-Quick-Ratio
View attachment 159848
View attachment 159850
I've also had a funny sound coming from the right rear of the car. I found out today that my right rear Competition Eng adjustable shock is shot. SO. I ordered some KYB adjustable rear shocks from LRS to go along with the front struts I just installed. The comp shocks were a gift from my dad 6+ years ago, and I never cared for them because you had to take the shock off to adjust it. These KYB's won't be like that.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/KYB-743020/79-93-Mustang-Kyb-Adjustable-Agx-Rear-Shock
I know I said some Moser axles were next on the purchase list, but I have to fix some of the little issues I'm having first. I would also like to install some more parts that I've had for years and just simply never got to.
After I'm done with the front-end, the back-end will be getting some attention.
- KYB shocks
- Wild Rides battle boxes
- Aftermarket control arms
- Moser axles (still need to order some....someday)
I've had a vibration in my front end for the last couple years. I found out this morning that the rack & pinion and/or inner tie-rods are shot. SO. I ordered a reman rack & pinion from LRS (15:1 ratio) today. I also will be installing the offset polyurethane bushings that I've had laying around forever.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...wer-Steering-Rack-And-Pinion-15-1-Quick-Ratio
View attachment 159848
View attachment 159850
I've also had a funny sound coming from the right rear of the car. I found out today that my right rear Competition Eng adjustable shock is shot. SO. I ordered some KYB adjustable rear shocks from LRS to go along with the front struts I just installed. The comp shocks were a gift from my dad 6+ years ago, and I never cared for them because you had to take the shock off to adjust it. These KYB's won't be like that.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/KYB-743020/79-93-Mustang-Kyb-Adjustable-Agx-Rear-Shock
I know I said some Moser axles were next on the purchase list, but I have to fix some of the little issues I'm having first. I would also like to install some more parts that I've had for years and just simply never got to.
After I'm done with the front-end, the back-end will be getting some attention.
- KYB shocks
- Wild Rides battle boxes
- Aftermarket control arms
- Moser axles (still need to order some....someday)
Attachments
So I finished the rack and pinion and the steering feels MUCH better....and no more slop in the front wheels from worn out inner tie-rods. Sorry but I didn't really get any pictures of it.
However, here's some pics of the progress of my battle boxes and aftermarket control arm installation. Right now I'm ready to drill and then it's MIG time. I'm not really happy about using these cheap polyurethane control arms, because I know they can bind under body roll and can break down after a bunch of hard launches. I literally have had them laying around for 5+ years. At some point I plan on investing in some spherical bushing UPR's or a Maximum Motorsport torque arm/panhard bar package.
However, here's some pics of the progress of my battle boxes and aftermarket control arm installation. Right now I'm ready to drill and then it's MIG time. I'm not really happy about using these cheap polyurethane control arms, because I know they can bind under body roll and can break down after a bunch of hard launches. I literally have had them laying around for 5+ years. At some point I plan on investing in some spherical bushing UPR's or a Maximum Motorsport torque arm/panhard bar package.
Attachments
StreetsideStig
Active Member
- Feb 22, 2011
- 1,012
- 48
- 48
fivespeedsteed
20+ Year Stangneter 
you like that rack you got from LRS? seems to be smooth, both the inners are good?ive replaced all my steering stuff with fenco branded stuff and one of the inners is already gone in it, trying to decide between another replacement fox rack, or a firm valved agr fox rack or an sn rack and all the stuff neccisary to convert
I have zero miles on it, so as far as durability I guess time will tell. I can tell a huge improvement just moving it around in the shop compared to the original 112,000 mile rack and pinion though.
Yesterday was welding day. My dad and I spend several hours bolting and welding the battle boxes into the car. Also ran a solid beam all around the factory torque boxes to strengthen them further. The lowers are a piece of cake, I was able to do those by myself. The uppers take a bit more work and it's a two person job.
Today I got the interior side panels put back in and I also have a rear seat delete coming to me...hopefully sometime next week. I also put in a new fuel filter and re-installed the rearend housing this afternoon. It sure is nice having a lift. The first time I removed/installed the rearend it was dad and I crawling around on the floor. This time I was able to do it all by my lonesome, which I'm pretty proud of lol.
I still need to bolt on the quad shocks, install the drums and wheels and then let the car down. Then I can go through and snug up all the control arm bolts and exhaust, driveshaft, bleed brakes, etc.
Pix time
Car all stripped down
I had to slightly egg shape the bottom battle box where the control arm bolt goes through in order to install it. Once the bolts through the floor were tightened, it fell into the original spot of the hole.
I sprayed these with undercoat
Upper and lower battle boxes all welded in
Crappy pic, but here's the upper box from under the car.
I sprayed some flat black onto the bare metal
Rearend all bolted up
Today I got the interior side panels put back in and I also have a rear seat delete coming to me...hopefully sometime next week. I also put in a new fuel filter and re-installed the rearend housing this afternoon. It sure is nice having a lift. The first time I removed/installed the rearend it was dad and I crawling around on the floor. This time I was able to do it all by my lonesome, which I'm pretty proud of lol.
I still need to bolt on the quad shocks, install the drums and wheels and then let the car down. Then I can go through and snug up all the control arm bolts and exhaust, driveshaft, bleed brakes, etc.
Pix time
Car all stripped down
I had to slightly egg shape the bottom battle box where the control arm bolt goes through in order to install it. Once the bolts through the floor were tightened, it fell into the original spot of the hole.
I sprayed these with undercoat
Upper and lower battle boxes all welded in
Crappy pic, but here's the upper box from under the car.
I sprayed some flat black onto the bare metal
Rearend all bolted up
Attachments
SteedaGT9150
Advanced Member
4.10's set-up by a local shop into my spare housing along with a brand new Detroit Truetrac posi
Stock axle next to a new Moser 31 spline
We had to file the knurl down slightly to get in the wheel studs. The Moser axles are actually closer to a .600 knurl compared to the advertised .625
The piece that holds the axle spacer in between the axles was a bit of a challenge getting in there. The 4.10 ring gear is slightly in the way. I don't know if the Truetrac would work with 4.30's or higher
Everything except the roll bar and driveshaft installed
El cheapo Granatelli dif cover
I wish the back end would sit a little lower...maybe once I get the rear seat delete and spare tire in there, along with a little settling, it will look better
Stock axle next to a new Moser 31 spline
We had to file the knurl down slightly to get in the wheel studs. The Moser axles are actually closer to a .600 knurl compared to the advertised .625
The piece that holds the axle spacer in between the axles was a bit of a challenge getting in there. The 4.10 ring gear is slightly in the way. I don't know if the Truetrac would work with 4.30's or higher
Everything except the roll bar and driveshaft installed
El cheapo Granatelli dif cover
I wish the back end would sit a little lower...maybe once I get the rear seat delete and spare tire in there, along with a little settling, it will look better
Got some 255/60-15's mounted replacing the 265/50-15's that were mounted before. This way I can keep my 21 tooth speedo gear with the 4.10's rather than switching to a 23 tooth....which always get's stripped. They fill in the fenderwell better and give the car a different stance. I don't have any pictures but I'll have to get some later. I do have a couple pics of the K-Dezines rear seat delete. It's the race version that only weighs a few pounds. I can't stack slicks or anything on top of it, but that's okay. It fits good except for the rear most piece...it doesn't quite fit the contour of the right side (fuel filler side). It should do though, this car isn't a show winner.
So....the car is pretty much done for this winter. I might get a battery relocation kit if I'm feeling frisky, but it might wait til next winter.
So....the car is pretty much done for this winter. I might get a battery relocation kit if I'm feeling frisky, but it might wait til next winter.
betke76
20+ Year Stangneter
2vNotch
Active Member
