Shift Kit vs. New Valve Body

01PonyGT

Member

Jul 27, 2003

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Willow Grove, PA

Dec 22, 2003

#1

• Dec 22, 2003

• #1

Been thinking about improving my auto trans in the future. I've heard about the Jerry Mod and the Trans Go shift kit, but what about a replacement Valve Body?? Lentech and Performance Automatic offer valve bodies (the PA is less $$$). Would putting in a valve body be better than a shift kit or would a shift kit also be needed with these valve bodies?? I really don't see a need for a transbrake because I've never been to the track and will probably never race it. I'm just looking for some better street performance and durability. I already have a B&M cooler that I'll be adding.
Any ideas on the valve bodies??

WES

 

gruntman31

Founding Member

Apr 22, 2002

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Colorado Springs, Co

Dec 22, 2003

#2

• Dec 22, 2003

• #2

A valve body is better. Shift kits artifically raise the line pressure to improve shift firmness. A valve body will not. Not sure how it works really, but I do know a valve body won't result in premature tranny failure. I use a PA S/S valve body.

 

99prmustang

New Member

Sep 3, 2003

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Dec 22, 2003

#3

• Dec 22, 2003

• #3

gruntman31 said:

A valve body is better. Shift kits artifically raise the line pressure to improve shift firmness. A valve body will not. Not sure how it works really, but I do know a valve body won't result in premature tranny failure. I use a PA S/S valve body.

Click to expand...

could someone give me the link for the PA valve body

 

01PonyGT

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Jul 27, 2003

304

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Willow Grove, PA

Dec 22, 2003

#4

• Dec 22, 2003

• #4

99prmustang said:

could someone give me the link for the PA valve body

Click to expand...

http://www.usaplaza.com/scripts/wcom_producttree.asp?StoreID=1078&ProductID=32202

www.performanceautomatic.com

 

J

jimfitzgerald

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Apr 11, 2001

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Dec 22, 2003

#5

• Dec 22, 2003

• #5

I have a PA fully manual valve body with transbrake. I love it, but it's pretty hard core. I also have a B&M Hammer ratchet shifter and PI 4200 stall converter.

 

01PonyGT

Member

Jul 27, 2003

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Willow Grove, PA

Dec 22, 2003

#6

• Dec 22, 2003

• #6

jimfitzgerald said:

I have a PA fully manual valve body with transbrake. I love it, but it's pretty hard core. I also have a B&M Hammer ratchet shifter and PI 4200 stall converter.

Click to expand...

I don't think that I'd enjoy the manual valve body. How's that B&M shifter?? Is the Hammer just the shifter handle that screws onto the OEM automatic shifter shaft?? I guess not if you say it's a "rachet" shifter. what exactly does that mean?

WES

 

S

san~man

O-G

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

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78

A little grass shack on a big lava rock

Dec 22, 2003

#7

• Dec 22, 2003

• #7

I have a Jerry Mod'd valve body. I personally didn't do the drilling of the seperator plate myself (no time, patience, or tools), but it is supposed to be very easy.

Just remember it was designed by the guy who designed the tranny himself. I have had it installed for almost a year now with zero problems, and I don't expect any either.

 

J

jimfitzgerald

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Apr 11, 2001

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Dec 22, 2003

#8

• Dec 22, 2003

• #8

01PonyGT said:

I don't think that I'd enjoy the manual valve body. How's that B&M shifter?? Is the Hammer just the shifter handle that screws onto the OEM automatic shifter shaft?? I guess not if you say it's a "rachet" shifter. what exactly does that mean?

WES

Click to expand...

The B&M Hammer shifter replaces your entire stock shifter mechanism. It is more or less a racing shifter. When racing with a manual valve body, it is easy to accidently shift from 1st to 3rd, with the stock shifter. With the B&M, you push the shifter handle all the way forward to shift from 1st to 2nd. The handle springs back and you push it forward again to shift from 2nd to 3rd.

 

Ottomatic

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Nov 4, 2001

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Southern IL

Dec 23, 2003

#9

• Dec 23, 2003

• #9

I've got the PA street/strip valve body and I really like it. The install was pretty doggone easy (once I figured out my torque wrench was a pos, long story) and you'll always have your stock valve body around incase you want to go back to stock. At WOT, it hits 2nd like a mother ****er and the shift to 3rd is hard and quick. At cruise, the shift into 2nd is a little stiff while the shift to 3rd is about perfect in my opinion.

 

01PonyGT

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Jul 27, 2003

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Willow Grove, PA

Dec 23, 2003

#10

• Dec 23, 2003

• #10

Ottomatic said:

I've got the PA street/strip valve body and I really like it. The install was pretty doggone easy (once I figured out my torque wrench was a pos, long story) and you'll always have your stock valve body around incase you want to go back to stock. At WOT, it hits 2nd like a mother ****er and the shift to 3rd is hard and quick. At cruise, the shift into 2nd is a little stiff while the shift to 3rd is about perfect in my opinion.

Click to expand...

Ottomatic, do you have any experience with a shift kit? I'm curious how your PA street/strip valve body compares to something like the Trans Go kit...any thoughts? What other mods do you have? rear gears? I think you've pretty much sold me on the PA valve body, but I'd like to hear a bit more about it.

Thanks again,
WES

 

Ottomatic

Founding Member

Nov 4, 2001

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Southern IL

Dec 23, 2003

#11

• Dec 23, 2003

• #11

Unfortunately, I've never experienced a trans-go or any other similar shift kit so I can't say with any authority that the valve body is indeed better. I've really got no horsepower adding mods so I'm probably sitting around 180rwhp. My rear gears are the stock 3.27's.

Maybe someone with a trans-go will chime in with their experiences. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

 

S

Silver95Bird

Founding Member

Jan 11, 2002

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PA

Dec 24, 2003

#12

• Dec 24, 2003

• #12

The J-mod does not raise the line pressure. That's false information.
For someone who intends to drive their car on the street every day, the J-mod is the best way to go. I've done 4 of them, they arent that hard. No harder than any other kit out there, and it uses only a few parts and some drilling.
For those who mainly use their cars as race cars but only occaisionally drive them on the street, then an aftermarket VB makes more sense.
With the right tuning and J-mod I think the OEM VB is sufficent for almost any application... some people just like having total control. To each their own. It's a matter of choice.