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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-

Shop Trying To Screw Me During An Alignment?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Braden65
  • Start date Start date Oct 9, 2015
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horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
Oct 12, 2015
#21
  • Oct 12, 2015
  • #21
For some reason 67 -70 is straight down ,probably because the radius rod is adjustable on them .The 65-66 needs to be 1/8 inch back
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
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tucson,az
Oct 14, 2015
#22
  • Oct 14, 2015
  • #22
horse sence said:
This one is from Speedway and i think it would be well worth having it
Click to expand...

i have one very similar to that one. nice tool.

horse sence said:
For some reason 67 -70 is straight down ,probably because the radius rod is adjustable on them .The 65-66 needs to be 1/8 inch back
Click to expand...

the reason the 67-70 cars just go straight down is because ford moved the pivot points back 1/8 when they redesigned the front suspension in 67.
 
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Braden65

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Oct 15, 2015
#23
  • Oct 15, 2015
  • #23
tos said:
Oops, You are correct, my bad. I was trying to go off my memory which is scary sometimes. I've seen people make their own templates going strait down instead of offsetting so please make sure your hole positions are correct. this may be why he's having trouble adjusting. I also adjusted my own except I used a combination of digital levels and squares but for my toe in I have an old bar type alignment gage left to me by my father in-law
Click to expand...
Ya I used the 1965 template dazecars sent to me.
 
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Braden65

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Oct 15, 2015
#24
  • Oct 15, 2015
  • #24
I added a .015 shim all the way around
the camber is already noticeably better and doesn't seem to wanna pull all over the road as bad, maybe that parts in my head though.
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
Oct 30, 2015
#25
  • Oct 30, 2015
  • #25
rbohm said:
i have one very similar to that one. nice tool.



the reason the 67-70 cars just go straight down is because ford moved the pivot points back 1/8 when they redesigned the front suspension in 67.
Click to expand...
But wouldn't it loose that 1/8 inch when you lower the upper control arm ?
 

rbohm

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Apr 12, 2002
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Oct 30, 2015
#26
  • Oct 30, 2015
  • #26
horse sence said:
But wouldn't it loose that 1/8 inch when you lower the upper control arm ?
Click to expand...

nope, remember that you are going straight down.
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
Oct 30, 2015
#27
  • Oct 30, 2015
  • #27
Yes but the upper control arm holes are not level .The front hole is higher than the back hole so that would move the holes farther forward .
 
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Braden65

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Jan 2, 2016
#28
  • Jan 2, 2016
  • #28
horse sence said:
This one is from Speedway and i think it would be well worth having it
Click to expand...
I bought one similar to that, but from amazon. I used greased up trash bags as turntables to set my caster. I didn't know this till recently when I talked to someone in the know but the specs he left me with, -1.5 caster on both sides is really dangerous and was causing me to get pulled all over the road. From the mustang expert i talked to he said that using adjustable strut rods to adjust caster would bind and ruin the lower control arm. Now that I know more I realized there was plenty of threads in the engine compartment off the upper control arm to adjust the caster with I could have called him out on, but the more you know. The only issue I am currently having and how he may have been a little right is my camber is not staying consistent. will change a half degree or so depending on when I measure it so still not sure whats causing that. I am about to work on measuring my toe, but i'm guessing it won't stay consistent either.
 

rbohm

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Jan 3, 2016
#29
  • Jan 3, 2016
  • #29
Braden65 said:
From the mustang expert i talked to he said that using adjustable strut rods to adjust caster would bind and ruin the lower control arm.
Click to expand...

that is true IF you use the stock rubber bushing. if you replace the bushing with a spherical bearing, then you eliminate the binding.
 
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Braden65

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Jan 3, 2016
#30
  • Jan 3, 2016
  • #30
rbohm said:
that is true IF you use the stock rubber bushing. if you replace the bushing with a spherical bearing, then you eliminate the binding.
Click to expand...
I had not heard that of that either. Good to know.
 
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Braden65

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Sep 24, 2016
#31
  • Sep 24, 2016
  • #31
I bought a tool very similar to what's linked on here but I bought it from Amazon. Did it myself in a garage with a buddy with some greased up trash bags so the wheels would turn side to side some what easily. So far I've gotten more than 1500 miles on this new set of tires and no unusual wear compared to after 100 miles I could already see the wear after the shops "alignment" The shop was definitely screwing me. I'm sure it's not perfect as I eyeballed the toe but it's decent enough for the limited driving I do. And bonus it doesn't try to pull me into the ditch after every bump
 
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