Short Block vs. Long Block

mikefsanti · Dec 27, 2004

Hi guys. Am a new member to the forum. I was wondering if anybody has links to articles that compare short block vs. long blocks in reference to mustangs. I am considering in replacing my short block from my 1995 5.0 mustang for a long block that a friend of mine has that is brand new ford remanufactured, but Am not sure if this would be a correct swap or how would a long block influence my mustang.

Thanks

Rootus · Dec 27, 2004

It's just terminology. A "short block" is the block itself, along with the rotating assembly (pistons, crank, rods, etc). A "long block" is a short block, with heads bolted-on.

Dave

wytstang · Dec 27, 2004

Welcome to the forums. If your friends long block is a reman. 5.0 long block for mustangs it is a direct swap. Do you know if the long block is for a mustang or explorer or even the older crown vics?

mikefsanti · Dec 27, 2004

wytstang said:
Welcome to the forums. If your friends long block is a reman. 5.0 long block for mustangs it is a direct swap. Do you know if the long block is for a mustang or explorer or even the older crown vics?

Thanks for your reply.

My friends engine is from an explorer, is this better, worst or the same? can you explain to me why?

Happy Holidays

hrspwrjunkie · Dec 27, 2004

What year of Explorer?

There are certain things that will make or break this swap for you.

If it is a newer long block (with a roller cam and GT-40P heads) you will benefit from swapping the cam out of your GT engine as it has a better profile. Other considerations are external bolt ons and most important is your Smog Pump. GT-40P heads aren't built for air injection and will need to be drilled for that, but can work. Also of important with these heads are different headers as the spark plug positions differ from the E7TE heads on a stock H.O. engine. The factory headers will not fit.

These heads will also really benefit from more intake and exhaust than is on a factory '95 GT.

If the engine is an earlier non-roller cam engine, don't use it. Also, if it is a non-H.O. engine, the heads will suck rocks. The E7TEs on an H.O. motor are restrictive enough, but the heads on non-H.O.s are scary. Also, if memory serves me correctly, the pistons are different and don't have any valve reliefs thus not allowing any room for head and cam swaps. The factory H.O. pistons already have enough problems with cam and valve fitment, there's no need to compound the issue with pistons that lack valve reliefs.

As for a remanufactured engine, an important thing to take into consideration is balance. When engines are rebuilt material is generally removed from the rotating assembly and can make for a bit of vibration during high revs. So, if that matters to you, you will be taking a risk.

mikefsanti said:
Thanks for your reply.

My friends engine is from an explorer, is this better, worst or the same? can you explain to me why?

Happy Holidays

squall9393 · Dec 27, 2004

mikefsanti said:
Thanks for your reply.

My friends engine is from an explorer, is this better, worst or the same? can you explain to me why?

Happy Holidays

The intake and the heads were better on the 5.0 Explorers. They had the "non-tubular' upper GT40 intake and GT40P heads. I can't remember specifics. Can somebody else jump in here? I assume it corrected the stock intake and heads air flow issue that caused our cars to suffer by the front cylinders being starved of air.

squall9393 · Dec 27, 2004

hrspwrjunkie said:
What year of Explorer?

There are certain things that will make or break this swap for you.

If it is a newer long block (with a roller cam and GT-40P heads) you will benefit from swapping the cam out of your GT engine as it has a better profile. Other considerations are external bolt ons and most important is your Smog Pump. GT-40P heads aren't built for air injection and will need to be drilled for that, but can work. Also of important with these heads are different headers as the spark plug positions differ from the E7TE heads on a stock H.O. engine. The factory headers will not fit.

These heads will also really benefit from more intake and exhaust than is on a factory '95 GT.

If the engine is an earlier non-roller cam engine, don't use it. Also, if it is a non-H.O. engine, the heads will suck rocks. The E7TEs on an H.O. motor are restrictive enough, but the heads on non-H.O.s are scary. Also, if memory serves me correctly, the pistons are different and don't have any valve reliefs thus not allowing any room for head and cam swaps. The factory H.O. pistons already have enough problems with cam and valve fitment, there's no need to compound the issue with pistons that lack valve reliefs.

As for a remanufactured engine, an important thing to take into consideration is balance. When engines are rebuilt material is generally removed from the rotating assembly and can make for a bit of vibration during high revs. So, if that matters to you, you will be taking a risk.

Ah! You beat me to it. There I go wasting breath again from taking to long to post what i type. Good knowledge though

mikefsanti · Dec 27, 2004

squall9393 said:
Ah! You beat me to it. There I go wasting breath again form taking to long to post what i type. Good knowledge though

WOW!!!!! great info, but what would happen if I instead of changing cams I leave it as it is, how much HP or torque would I be leaving behind, furthermore any idea if drilling gt 40p heads will be expensive?

Thanks again

hrspwrjunkie · Dec 28, 2004

I'm not sure about the cost of drilling the heads. And not every machine shop is able to do this. Central Coast Mustang does this (if you are in that neck of the California woods). Here is their contact info:

Central Coast Mustang
426 N. Curry
Tehachapi,, CA 93561
(661) 823-2400
Beyond that, the rev range will be very different with the Explorer cam, which designed for low RPM torque and not higher RPM revs. This will effect the powerband and change the engine's driving characteristics from what you're used to with the stock engine. Although, horsepower is about the same. But it's a shame not to have the extra power since you have the better heads. Also, the computer may not provide the correct higher RPM fuel and spark timing for the new cam.

mikefsanti said:
WOW!!!!! great info, but what would happen if I instead of changing cams I leave it as it is, how much HP or torque would I be leaving behind, furthermore any idea if drilling gt 40p heads will be expensive?

Thanks again

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