Should i get this welder?!?!?!

#2
That welder is too small. Like most tools you initially buy with the intent of doing a specific job but after using the tool your scope widens after you realize what you can do. I have a Lincoln 175 Pro and although it has been a great welder it is also a little on the small side for me now. You can pick up a 175 at the pawn shop if you look hard enough. The one I am using at the moment was picked up at a pawn shop for $300 about 6 months ago and it was also almost brand new.
 
#5
I wouldn't buy it for that price. You can buy one from Home Depot for just a little but more that will have a full warranty. I don't think that you could convert it to gas for $100.00 if you bought your tank too. I could be wrong about that though.

I have one like it converted to gas and it has done anything I have wanted to do with it. If it is converted to gas it will do the floor pans just fine. If I were to buy another one I would get something like the 175 to have finer tuning ability and more power.
 
#6
Ronstang said:
Yes, the 175 Pro is a Mig, and one of the suitcase ones like pictured above but with more amperage. It is also 220V but you don't want a 120V unit regardless of what others tell you.....they are just TOO small.
Click to expand...

Hmm, so should I tell my friend that spliced a 3/4 ton 4x4 Dodge front frame half with it's Diesel and 5-speed onto his 1/2 ton 4x4 Ramcharger, then put the 3/4 ton rear end in that his truck will break in half? Also, should he go find the poor 'sucker' that he welded his old front frame half with it's 360/auto onto the donor 3/4 ton and put his 1/2 ton rear end in it and buy the truck back before it breaks in half and sues him?

I'd suggest you offer Ron $350 shipped for his 175 Pro.

I agree that you'll eventually want a bigger welder, but that 120v pocket mig will do anything you need it to do on a unibody car. There are plenty of body shops out there tha only have 120v units.

My friend (with the Dodge) and I went in together on a Miller 130a 120v MIG (the one used to convert his Ramcharger to 3/4 ton) for $600 about 8-9 years ago a a street rod show and that included the gas conversion kit which was about $100 extra. Bottle rental is about $80 around here for a 3' tall bottle, but trading for a full bottle runs about $20-$25.

He just ordered a Miller Plasma cutter and will be purchasing a 220v Miller MIG probably a 210. We're planning on converting the 130 over to weld aluminum, then eventually sell it as I'll be buying a TIG, probably a Lincoln 225.
 
#7
I have virtually the same machine converted over to MIG. Works great for sheet metal stuff. If I were to do it all over again I would buy a 220V machine because they are more versatile and not much more expensive new. Also I now have 220V power in my garage whereas I didn't when I bought the 110V welder. If you don't have 220V power already make sure you factor that into pricing. 110V is fine for 90% of what anybody will do in their home garage.
 
#9
mustangman70 said:
Allright cool thanks guy's

Is there any way to tell if a 220 volt mig will work in the dryer outlet lol

What do the plugs look like?
Click to expand...

The smaller Migs like the 175 Pro only pull about 17 amps so there is no issue using the dryer plug except for the fact that the dryer receptacle is 30 amp and the welder's plug is 50 amps and thus will not connect. The simple issue is to make a simple adapter with a 50 amp receptacle a short section of wire and a 30 amp plug. I simply ran hardwire from the dryer plug out to the garage and installed a 50 amp plug compatible with the welder....but it uses the dryer circuit with no problems in 7 years. I have an adapter like I mentioned earlier for when I take it to friend's houses for little projects.

1320Stang....I am real happy you built a truck with a 120v welder. You can weld bigger stuff together with one if you do multiple passes but I prefer to have the more capable welder that is not a lot more expensive. The problem with 120v welders is that with the crappy home wiring these days they can sometimes be problematic.....note I said SOMETIMES. My philosophy is if you are making a purchase of this magnitude you might as well spend a little more and get the better equipment and 220v is better, both for welders and air compressors.
 
#10
Ronstang said:
The smaller Migs like the 175 Pro only pull about 17 amps so there is no issue using the dryer plug except for the fact that the dryer receptacle is 30 amp and the welder's plug is 50 amps and thus will not connect. The simple issue is to make a simple adapter with a 50 amp receptacle a short section of wire and a 30 amp plug. I simply ran hardwire from the dryer plug out to the garage and installed a 50 amp plug compatible with the welder....but it uses the dryer circuit with no problems in 7 years. I have an adapter like I mentioned earlier for when I take it to friend's houses for little projects.
Click to expand...

So let me see if i have this right lol :flag:

Welder-----> plug from welder (50 amp)------->get a 50 amp receptacle and plug the welder into that-----------> wire the 50 amp receptacle up to a 30 amp 220v plug...and plug this into the dryers outlet (which is 30amp)

And i wont have any issues :shrug:
 
#13
Ron, I agree and my post might have come across as a little snippity, there is no tounge-in-cheek smiley. But as you say, not everyone is wired up to 220 easily. Add in the cost of wiring it up, many will have to have a licenced electrician, mainly due to regulations and the cost goes up. Reason we bought the Miller is, we didn't trust a China brand from Harbor Freight. Home Depot and Lowe's weren't carrying Lincoln or Hobart at that time and we didn't have any Tractor Supply stores then. Most people aren't going to weld truck frames together, if you're not going to do much beyond welding sheetmetal, a 120v welder is fine IMO. This $600 welder has paid for itself many times, we'll probably ask about $350-$400 when we sell and likely get it. You pawn shop deal is smoking, you won't see any deals like that around here, I promise.
 
#14
I also have the weldpak 175 only mine isnt converted to mig. You dont really need to worry about converting unless your worried about the weld cosmetics. Gasless tends to splatter a little more but still produces a very nice weld. Just use a flux core wire meant for mild steel. As far as 220v over 120v. Dont worry about that its not the voltage going into the welder its the voltage coming out thats important and a weldpak 175 puts out the same whether its 220 or 120 (just a different transformer). The only advantge is operating costs. 220v is more efficient to operate so you might save a few pennies on your electric bill if you weld alot. I would also go a little bigger than the one you listed for future use but if your only doing body panels and maybe anyhting less than say 1/8 mild steel it will be fine for you.
 
#15
tos said:
You dont really need to worry about converting unless your worried about the weld cosmetics. Gasless tends to splatter a little more but still produces a very nice weld.
Click to expand...

You don't really NEED to convert to a MIG setup though I cannot stress enough through the keyboard how much I think you SHOULD. 120V or 220V is up to you and your garage, but either way I suggest you spring for the regulator and solenoid for MIG welding. Gasless will work with practice however, MIG IMHO is better for sheet metal for a couple reasons. 1) Wire size, the smallest flux core wire is only available in .030" which is too thick for thin bodywork. Solid wire can be found as small as .023" which is much better suited for thin bodywork. 2) Flux core smokes alot during welding and the resdiue gets all over everything, your parts, your gloves, most importantly your face shield and can make it hard to see what you are doing. I was in your same boat a few years ago and started with flux core. I was able to get good results after a bit of practice. Then I came across the MIG kit for my welder on clearance and figured why not. Picked up some .023" wire and kicked myslef for not going that route from the beginning.
 
#17
I would pass on that welder. Here is the one you need to get. It isn't 220v but it is a smokin' deal on a hell of a welder.
Reconditioned Hobart Handler 140-$400
These are rebadged Millers(minus the infinite voltage). You are correct on the wire, .023 solid when using C25 gas. This HH140 is just the right size for anything on a Mustang. That MigPak 100 would have struggled through the subframe but this welder will not. You could go for the HH180 for $50 more if you like, another smokin' deal. Great welders, low price. Beware though, gas isn't cheap. I paid $175 for my 60cf but I don't like renting, so it's mine for life now. Get the largest tank you can buy, or rent if you want to keep shelling out those 100's every 5 or 10 years. The cost difference to fill the different tank sizes is miniscule, so you'll save if you do enough welding. Good luck with your purchase. I really can't stress how good of a welder this is...
Grant

Heres another great, low-cost option:Reconditioned Hobart Handler 125-$240
You just can't beat the Hobart for performance/value.
 
#19
mustangman70 said:
So .023 would be a good size wire to use for stuff liek the floor/cowl/body areas?
Click to expand...


Yes.


In regard to Stanger's post. All the machines he posted are good machines at pretty good prices. My only beef is the comment about the weldpak 100 struggling with the subframe. It does not.
 
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