Should I Go With A Bigger MAF? & Different Air Intake?

[KDK1988GT]

Hey guys I'm thinking that I should go with a bigger MAF meter..

I'm running a Pro-Flow 75mm Bullet MAF right now, with a MAC Cold Air.

My motor mod are...

D.S.S 331 Stroker Kit with D.S.S Pro Lite Series Pistons
D.S.S Main Support
.30 Over Stock Block
Holley SysteMAX II Intakes
70mm P-Plus EGR Spacer
70mm P-Plus Throttle Body
75mm Pro-Flow MAF
MAC Cold Air Kit
AFR 185 Heads 61cc with 2.02 Intake & 1.6 Exhaust Valves
1.6 Comp Rockers
Competition Cam Xtreme Energy 224/232@ .050 Duration .555/.565 Lift
Long Tubes
30 lbs Injectors .

Tuned With TwEECer...

 

[gcwh02]

I would say 80mm MAF and 75TB for that nice 331 you got there. Not sure if you mean different cold air intake, my answer is dont waste your money. Or if you mean intake manifold, holleys intake is a nice piece so keep it.

 

[KDK1988GT]

Not sure if you mean different cold air intake, my answer is dont waste your money. Or if you mean intake manifold, holleys intake is a nice piece so keep it.

yeh I have a MAC Cold Air,, I was looking to change that to this... to get some more flow, I was thinking that my MAC Cold Air was a bit restrictive...

This is a complete system featuring our 4" lower tube, huge S & B filter, Pro-M 95 mm Mass air meter and a 3.5" high flow tube going to the throttle body. This is a high flow system designed for big horsepower strokers and will easily support 500hp.

View attachment 486532

 

[Michael Yount]

If you decide to swap, it would be really nice to have some before and after dyno or strip numbers -- to see if the current maf was actually holding you back.

 

[IntenseBlue]

I think the mass air meter is fine for now. If you change the cold air intake look at Anderson Ford Motorsports powerpipe.

 

[1SLO306]

like said before i would go 80mm maf and a 75mm tb

 

[KDK1988GT]

If you decide to swap, it would be really nice to have some before and after dyno or strip numbers -- to see if the current maf was actually holding you back.

yeh that would be nice to see,, but no damm dynos any place close to me..

 

[KDK1988GT]

like said before i would go 80mm maf and a 75mm tb

yeh I was thinking of that.... even a bigger MAF for future plans. turbo or sc...

 

[KDK1988GT]

the pic of the Cold Air.. is the one that I was thinking about going to..

 

[matm347]

That setup does not look bad, others (like BBK) have the MAS situated too close to the radius which throws off the MAS with the different air velocities.
You may pick some power up top, but don't expect more than 10~15.

 

[Michael Yount]

I wouldn't think you'd even pick up that much.

You don't need a dyno to test the before and after. Pick an isolated stretch of flat, level road. Do some w.o.t. timed acceleration runs in the same gear -- say from 2500 rpm to 5500 rpm in 2nd gear. Have someone ride with you and operate the clock. Do 3-5 runs in one direction; then 3-5 in the opposite direction. Average all of them. Make a note of the ambient temp. Be sure the car is completely warm. Note the fuel load.

After the change - back to the same stretch of road with the same friend (or someone that weighs the same) and the same amount of fuel in the tank. Make your runs again. Compare the averages to see if you've helped yourself.

This method works really well to tell you if a change is actually helping or not. I used it extensively to modify my old SCCA road racer.

 

[KDK1988GT]

I wouldn't think you'd even pick up that much.

You don't need a dyno to test the before and after. Pick an isolated stretch of flat, level road. Do some w.o.t. timed acceleration runs in the same gear -- say from 2500 rpm to 5500 rpm in 2nd gear. Have someone ride with you and operate the clock. Do 3-5 runs in one direction; then 3-5 in the opposite direction. Average all of them. Make a note of the ambient temp. Be sure the car is completely warm. Note the fuel load.

After the change - back to the same stretch of road with the same friend (or someone that weighs the same) and the same amount of fuel in the tank. Make your runs again. Compare the averages to see if you've helped yourself.

This method works really well to tell you if a change is actually helping or not. I used it extensively to modify my old SCCA road racer.

Thanks for the idea.. I have the TwEECer now also... so I could data log also while doing this... and I guess I could do a G-tac also... lots of options

 

[04sleeper]

That setup may work but I don't like where it puts the MAF after the bend.

I would go with an Anderson one like this with an S&B filter which puts the MAF in the fender but it gets a straight shot before the MAF from the filter.

 

[KDK1988GT]

That setup may work but I don't like where it puts the MAF after the bend.

I would go with an Anderson one like this with an S&B filter which puts the MAF in the fender but it gets a straight shot before the MAF from the filter.

Well how much really do you think that would make a difference??
As for the MAF being after the bend... with the Anderson Power Pipe,, u get a total of 4 bends in the pipe,, would this not cause some restricton compaired to a 2 bend setup??

 

[04sleeper]

Well how much really do you think that would make a difference??
As for the MAF being after the bend... with the Anderson Power Pipe,, u get a total of 4 bends in the pipe,, would this not cause some restricton compaired to a 2 bend setup??

You will get better drivability with the MAF getting a straight shot of air.

And it's not the total number of bends but the gradual radius that the AFM gives over the other.

 

[Michael Yount]

I guess I would say that you'll get the best driveability with the MAF getting the shot of air that it was calibrated for. ProM for example, will ask what's upstream of the maf before they calibrate one for you -- if the upstream 'piece' is the stock air box or an elbow or a conical filter -- all three of those scenarios get a different calibration. Take one that's calibrated to be right after an ell, and give it a straight shot of air, and you might be surprised at how it works. It's thinking that all maf's are created equal and are simply 'plug and play' that most often gets folks into trouble.

Piping the full diameter of the meter/throttle body opening and mandrel bent ells should do the job for you.

 

[KDK1988GT]

I guess I would say that you'll get the best driveability with the MAF getting the shot of air that it was calibrated for. ProM for example, will ask what's upstream of the maf before they calibrate one for you -- if the upstream 'piece' is the stock air box or an elbow or a conical filter -- all three of those scenarios get a different calibration. Take one that's calibrated to be right after an ell, and give it a straight shot of air, and you might be surprised at how it works. It's thinking that all maf's are created equal and are simply 'plug and play' that most often gets folks into trouble.

with these different calibrations for different scenarios.. this is why its nice to have the TwEECer which I do.. I can play with the calibrations and tune it to my liking. I wish I had a dyno around so I could try out a few different combos of air intakes..

 

[KDK1988GT]

And it's not the total number of bends but the gradual radius that the AFM gives over the other.

ok I've got you now.. the more strait the line of air flow the better.. I see what u are saying.

But I wonder what the difference is if any (hp numbers/gains)...

 

[Curse]

That setup may work but I don't like where it puts the MAF after the bend.

I would go with an Anderson one like this with an S&B filter which puts the MAF in the fender but it gets a straight shot before the MAF from the filter.

I love the way the Power Pipes look, too bad they are so damn expensive.

 

[KDK1988GT]

I love the way the Power Pipes look, too bad they are so damn expensive.

And I wonder if any place here in Canada sells the buggers