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should the car crank if I jump the starter solenoid terminals?

  • Thread starter Thread starter jaymac
  • Start date Start date Dec 29, 2005

jaymac

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#1
  • Dec 29, 2005
  • #1
I jumped the teminals w/ a screwdriver, and a small amount of sparks will come out sometimes; other times, no. The solenoid appears to be clicking when you try to start it, and jumping it doesn't help it.
So, anyway, should the car crank over if I jump it? If it doens't, what does that indicate?
 
1

1SLO306

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#2
  • Dec 29, 2005
  • #2
it should. have u check the battery to see if its charged??
 
S

ss93cobra

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#3
  • Dec 29, 2005
  • #3
Yes, the car should try to start / crank over when you jump the solenoid.
 

jrichker

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Here's a checklist:

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
 

jaymac

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#5
  • Dec 29, 2005
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Jrcihker, I already printed that list and have it w/ me at the car IN THE RAIN!!! I'm gonna go try to jump it again and make sure the key is on, etc. If it doesn't start when it's jumped, then what's the problem? Starter? Ignition switch?
 

jaymac

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#6
  • Dec 29, 2005
  • #6
OK:
I put it in Neutral (auto), and jump the pos. to the push-on connector, and the solenoid clicked every time, but no crank. jumpin the 2 terminals gave no crank and very little spark.
What next?
 

jaymac

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where'd everybody go?!?!
 

jrichker

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Sounds like low battery, bad connections on the battery terminals or bad ground. Time for a jump to eliminate a low battery. Or pull the battery post connectors off and scrape them clean with a pocket knife.
 

jaymac

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the battery terminals are almost surgically clean.
We did try to jump it for a few minutes with no apparent effect. The battery is only 6-7 months old, and has been jumped 2-3 times before. The car does not have a voltage gauge, so we don't know if the alt. is good or bad.
The smaller gauge ground is good, I can't see where the larger gauge goes, I'll try to hunt it down though.
So it doens't sound like a bad starter?
 
1

1SLO306

My 97 GTP owns you ALL!
Mar 31, 2005
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Dec 29, 2005
#10
  • Dec 29, 2005
  • #10
i dont think it a bad starter. When my solenoid click on mine it has always been a weak battery or or loose connections.
 

jrichker

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Do the simple & cheap stuff first. Check the block ground next. On mine it is down under the PS pump. You have to lay on the ground under the car. If it's raining, it might not be a good time to look...
 

jaymac

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#12
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so, we kept a jumper car on there for 15 minutes, and still no change or improvement. I can see the heavy gauge block ground, but can't reach it from under the hood. I'd have to get under the car, and it's definitely not a good time to do that. I'll have to convince my buddy to not have it towed, and to leave it there until it dries out.
How about the neutral start switch. Do the symptoms indicate it might be a problem? If so, how do I check it?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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#13
  • Dec 29, 2005
  • #13
jaymac said:
so, we kept a jumper car on there for 15 minutes, and still no change or improvement. I can see the heavy gauge block ground, but can't reach it from under the hood. I'd have to get under the car, and it's definitely not a good time to do that. I'll have to convince my buddy to not have it towed, and to leave it there until it dries out.
How about the neutral start switch. Do the symptoms indicate it might be a problem? If so, how do I check it?
Click to expand...
To mirror what JR already said: Find the slide-on terminal on top of the solenoid. Put a test light on the wire and when the key is in the crank position, see if the test light illuminates. If it does, your getting the signal to the solenoid, and the issue is the solenoid, primary electrical system, grounds, etc etc (not the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or the wiring from the ignition switch to the solenoid).

Something else I have done is to grab a spare jumper cable and put it in parallel with existing cables. If you do this and the car magically cranks, the cable you are now paralleling is worth checking out (this works for checking power and grounds).

Good luck Jeremy.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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129
Dec 29, 2005
#14
  • Dec 29, 2005
  • #14
jrichker said:
Here's a checklist:

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
Click to expand...
Hmm, I think I saw someone else post this information a time or two the other day. Joe, are you sure you're the author?
 

jaymac

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#15
  • Dec 29, 2005
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I saw a FEW people rip this post....
 

jrichker

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#16
  • Dec 29, 2005
  • #16
HISSIN50 said:
Hmm, I think I saw someone else post this information a time or two the other day. Joe, are you sure you're the author?
Click to expand...
Abo-so-lute-ly. You can bet your hippopotamus on it...
 

jaymac

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Dec 30, 2005
#17
  • Dec 30, 2005
  • #17
Today we're going to get under the car, disconnect all grounds, scrape and wd-40 them, re-conect, whck the starter a few times, and see what happens. Anything else we should check?
Oh yeah, I'll try to get a test light and check that continuity thing like JT said...
 
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