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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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size of 94 gt stock mass air meter?

  • Thread starter Thread starter amplifier28
  • Start date Start date Jan 25, 2009
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amplifier28

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Apr 16, 2005
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Jan 25, 2009
#1
  • Jan 25, 2009
  • #1
i have a stock 94 gt vert. what is the size of the stock mass air meter?
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#2
  • Jan 25, 2009
  • #2
Small.

Kurt
 

Venom351R

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#3
  • Jan 25, 2009
  • #3
I belive its 65MM
 

amplifier28

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Apr 16, 2005
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#4
  • Jan 25, 2009
  • #4
i read somewhere that it was 70 mm. i want to make sure because i want to buy a 75 mm trickflow street intake maifold, 75mm manifold elbow and 75 mm throttle body. i want to match all components as much as possible. if the mass air meter is 70 mm i will stick with stock, but if it is 65 mm then i will buy a larger mass air meter. anybody knows for sure what size the stock air meter is?
 

Venom351R

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#5
  • Jan 25, 2009
  • #5
amplifier28 said:
i read somewhere that it was 70 mm. i want to make sure because i want to buy a 75 mm trickflow street intake maifold, 75mm manifold elbow and 75 mm throttle body. i want to match all components as much as possible. if the mass air meter is 70 mm i will stick with stock, but if it is 65 mm then i will buy a larger mass air meter. anybody knows for sure what size the stock air meter is?
Click to expand...


They dont all have to match up, you wont gain or lose anything by it. My Throttle body is 75MM and my Mass Air Meter is 97MM. The biggest thing is matching your intake to your throttle body.
 

amplifier28

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Apr 16, 2005
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#6
  • Jan 25, 2009
  • #6
thanks! anybody know the size?
 

Venom351R

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#7
  • Jan 25, 2009
  • #7
whys it matter what the stock size is if your putting an aftermarket one on it anyway?
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
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Jan 25, 2009
#8
  • Jan 25, 2009
  • #8
The OEM meter on 94-95 GT's & Cobra's is 70mm

If you are staying fairly mild with your combo like bolt-ons and the like

You really won't gain much ... if any ... with an aftermarket meter

The same can be said about the tb

Most of the time ... the aftermarket meters are not as accurate as OEM :Word:

It is not all that uncommon to see peeps who switch have drivability issues

It all boils down to this fact

With just bolt-on's .............
You ain't movin enough air to overpower the OEM unit

Many here have done the whole modding thing
so
It would be wise for you to share your long term plans

That way .............
You can work with the parts that give the best bang for the buck spent

Grady
 

amplifier28

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#9
  • Jan 25, 2009
  • #9
i want to know because if it is 70mm then i stay stock, but if it is 65mm then i might upgrade to a C&L 73mm or a 76mm.
 

amplifier28

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#10
  • Jan 25, 2009
  • #10
thanks everybody for all the responses!
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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Jan 25, 2009
#11
  • Jan 25, 2009
  • #11
If you can get your hands on an old Pro-M, that's the way to go.

Kurt
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Jan 26, 2009
#12
  • Jan 26, 2009
  • #12
I'm with wise ol' Mr Grady here. Seems to me that you run out of injector before the meter becomes a hindrance anyhow......
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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#13
  • Jan 26, 2009
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The stock MAF housing has a bore of just over 70mm but it has a thick vertical bar running down the middle that's a big hindrance to airflow. If you just grind that away but leave the tube intact where the hot wire sensor sits, it'll improve airflow quite a bit especially if you also remove the mesh screen.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
1,645
214
Acworth, GA
Jan 26, 2009
#14
  • Jan 26, 2009
  • #14
Bullitt95 said:
The stock MAF housing has a bore of just over 70mm but it has a thick vertical bar running down the middle that's a big hindrance to airflow. If you just grind that away but leave the tube intact where the hot wire sensor sits, it'll improve airflow quite a bit especially if you also remove the mesh screen.
Click to expand...

Already covered this in another thread not too long ago, you can't do that, it will ruin the sample volume.

Kurt
 

Stanger007

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Jan 26, 2009
#15
  • Jan 26, 2009
  • #15
I've run quite a few H/C/I guys on the stock MAF. Switching to a 90mm Lightning setup was marginally beneficial on the guys spinning above 6k with well flowing heads but overall your money is best put elsewhere.

What I would do is to probe your MAF with a volt meter and make a couple pulls with the meter set to hold peak or have someone watch - if the voltage is getting 4.9 or above I'd consider upgrading as this is where you'll start seeing a worthwhile difference. If it's around 4.7/4.8 I'd leave it alone unless you're dying to drop some coin.

Wes
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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#16
  • Jan 26, 2009
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revhead347 said:
Already covered this in another thread not too long ago, you can't do that, it will ruin the sample volume.
Click to expand...

That's why I said you don't disturb the "calibration" tube part.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
1,645
214
Acworth, GA
Jan 26, 2009
#17
  • Jan 26, 2009
  • #17
Bullitt95 said:
That's why I said you don't disturb the "calibration" tube part.
Click to expand...

It has nothing to do with the electronics. The mass air meter is dependent on a certain percentage of the air volume bypassing the sample tube. If you increase the cross sectional area of the meter by removing any material from inside the meter, the total sample volume will change, therefore causing it to give innacurate readings.

Kurt
 

maypo59

New Member
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Jan 26, 2009
#18
  • Jan 26, 2009
  • #18
revhead347 said:
It has nothing to do with the electronics. The mass air meter is dependent on a certain percentage of the air volume bypassing the sample tube. If you increase the cross sectional area of the meter by removing any material from inside the meter, the total sample volume will change, therefore causing it to give innacurate readings.

Kurt
Click to expand...

Correct. Fluid dynamics 101.
 

amplifier28

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Apr 16, 2005
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Jan 26, 2009
#19
  • Jan 26, 2009
  • #19
thanks everybody!
 

blksn955.o

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Jan 26, 2009
#20
  • Jan 26, 2009
  • #20
If you have a tuning device like the tweecer you can get away cheaper and better. I switched to a 80mm 98gt maf. It does not have the high end airflow the 90mm LMAF does so you get more use out of the curve/transfer and since they are not as "in demand" you can pick them up cheap. I have less than $90 in my maf setup including the cost of the pigtail. With the tweecerR/T great drivability and I know I am good to go with the voltage.

Granted the stocker has been time and time again known to make good power at the 290-300rwhp mark. I did this just to play around and learn...and have had no issues with a good "middle of the road" maf for little $$$.
 
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