Skim coat tips or tricks?

JC6715 · Feb 19, 2007

I am getting ready to do the skim coat on the ol' girl and am curious if anyone can share some tips or tricks on doing the skim coat.

I am going to be using the Evercoat Rage filler. As I understand it I apply a thin coat and block smooth with a long board... Am I on the right track?

Thanks in advance guys and gals.

chromedog · Feb 19, 2007

thin coat, and long board... you got that much right.... one more thing, when you apply the rage (good choice, btw... just dont let it harden too long before you start blocking, it gets really hard!) hold your squeegee so that it curls, sort of like a scoop... this prevents you from digging into the low spots you are trying to fill. also, a wide squeegee (6 " or so) is best. once it starts to skim over, just before it is fully cured, knock the gloss off with 80 grit, before you start blocking... this will keep your paper from loading up as quickly. one more thing, if you are getting a lot of pin holes, get a can of honey (evercoat makes it) it is basically fiberglas resin) to mix with your rage. this help it to spread a little better, it will sort of self level, and you wont get so many pin holes, just go easy on it, you can und with your bondo running off the fender!

BB1966 · Feb 19, 2007

Are your panels beat up that bad that you have to skim?? If not a high build primer will do a good job.

91drag · Feb 19, 2007

i'll second the high build primer

truck90278 · Feb 19, 2007

You did not comment hwat type of surface your applying the skim coat over. It should be bare metal and not a painted surface

JC6715 · Feb 20, 2007

I'm starting to think the high build primer is the way to go. The panels aren't THAT bad and I was just going to scuff the old paint and apply, so it sounds like a skim coat is out.

Can I spray the high build on top of old paint that is properly scuffed?

Thanks for the help guys.

chromedog · Feb 20, 2007

i guess i was assuming you were going to strip the car before you mudded it up... if the old paint is properly cured, you wont have any problems. you just want to make sure you let it cure out before you topcoat it, if not you risk the primer shrinking after you paint, and alot of your problems will resurface.also, if there is any wax, silicone, etc. on the car, you need to get it off before you start sanding, do this by first washing it down with windex, followed by prepsol, or something of that nature.

BB1966 · Feb 20, 2007

You could sand and etch prime first if you have any question of the suface. Then 2K it.

JC6715 · Feb 23, 2007

Right on, thanks for the advice guys.

truck90278 · Feb 23, 2007

do a little more than "scuff" the paint. You should probably use a minimum of 220 grit. If it was mine, I would probably use 80 grit for good adhesion. Self etching primer is intended for bare metal. when sanding, first clean the surface to remove any surface (per chromedog) or you will will be just grinding the silicon, wax and other surface contamination into the surface your going to paint. find yourself a local auto paint supplier and spend some time talking to them for some advice. Dupont 2K high build primer surfacer is good, but expensive and is very hard when it cures. There are some other brands available which cost significant less and are easier to sand. surface preparation is the key to a good paint job and incluces a lot of block sanding

Skim coat tips or tricks?

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