Smog and EGR removal

TIip of the Day: anytime the CEL light is on, the engine is running in Limp mode and produces less power. By removing the smog equipment and not re-programing the computer via Tweecer or custom chip, you have lowered the performance of your car. The computer turns off the smog equipment when you go to max power, so removing it doesn't accomplish much.

Beasly B said:

So when I get my ATI procharger kit soon and Anderson PMS ... will this fix my problem?

Click to expand...

The PMS might be able to cleanly disable the missing smog equipment, but since I have no experience with it, I cannot say.

Right now find & fix the problems you have before addding any new equipment to the car. it will make the new parts work better and easier to get running correctly. Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.