Smog Pump removal

phatboysh

New Member
May 14, 2004
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Im heading out to my local track for the last time for a while this thursday, and I was looking at smog pump delete brackets. I thought to myself.. didnt a few years of fox bodies come without the air/ smog pump?? If so, they would have a shorter belt. Couldnt I just go out, get this belt, and remove/ or bypass the pump? My car is running rich right now anyways.. Im hoping if I take out the air pump my computer will see that there is less air passing the o2 sensors and lean it out some, prolly just wishful thinking though.
Any info is appreciated, thanks :hail2:
Joe

also, will this trip the check engine light? I cannot see how it wouldnt.. I dont want to lose performance from this job.
 
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Don't waste your money on a smog removal pulley. Just take off the pump and/or bypass it with the 895V6 belt (thats 89.5" with 6 ribs) It is a mofo to get on but it will fit. I pulled my smog pump and all the pipes NO lights at all Make sure you plug the pink line on the pump if you pull it (I think pink ... you"ll know it has a vaccume to it.)
 
few tips i just did mine:
1. the tubes to the back of the heads are real hard to get off....i just cut off the passenger side about 2 inches away from the head with a sawzall and put a silicon hose on there and clamped one end to the tube coming from the head and put a 5/8" galvanized plug that i got from home depot in the other end...works great...
2. 895k6 belt may be too tight....I had to go with a 900k6 and it fits like a charm
3. Make sure the 2 vacuum lines are plugged real good.
 
I used an 895K6 and it works fine. However, you have to reverse the direction that the serpentine belt goes around the crank and the water pump. Normally, the belt travels from the water pump directly to the smog pump. When you delete the smog pump, you have to reroute it so that the belt goes from the crank to the tensioner to the alternator.

Another good tip. If your idler pulley goes bad, you can replace it with a Dayco part number 89006. If you ask for the parts store for a replacement idler pullley, they will give you something that looks nothing like your stock pulley. This is because Ford released an update for that car that uses a completely different bracket. You can't get an original pulley from the dealer either.

Kurt
 
On my car, the tensioner bottoms out and sounds like knocking with a 89.5 after running the car for about 90 miles. The weird thing is that it only happens at initial startup... I'm giving a 88.75" one a shot. Hopefully I can pre-stretch it. I'm using ASP Aluminum underdrives by the way. Just wanted to let ya know.
 
My tensioner knocks a little wth the 89.5" belt. I just used the dremel to grind back the stop on the tensioner a little bit. Worked like a charm.

Kurt
 
the 895k6 belt wouldnt fit on mine, im gonna try to 900k6 and see if it works, the tensioner just would not go down far enough to let it fit, i had it as far as it would go an the belt just would not go on.
 
revhead347 said:
I used an 895K6 and it works fine. However, you have to reverse the direction that the serpentine belt goes around the crank and the water pump. Normally, the belt travels from the water pump directly to the smog pump. When you delete the smog pump, you have to reroute it so that the belt goes from the crank to the tensioner to the alternator.

Another good tip. If your idler pulley goes bad, you can replace it with a Dayco part number 89006. If you ask for the parts store for a replacement idler pullley, they will give you something that looks nothing like your stock pulley. This is because Ford released an update for that car that uses a completely different bracket. You can't get an original pulley from the dealer either.

Kurt
is the "new" replacement pulley bigger or smaller, and by how much?
 
89.5 made it 2 days on mine then bottomed out on the tensioner... I now have the Gates K060888 on mine and let me tell you, it was all I could do to get that baby on by myself. I stretched it with my foot for 15 minutes while heating it up with my trouble light. LOL

Even then it took two bites on the tensioner with different length rachets. And I got it "halfway" on. I crossed my fingers and bumped the starter a few times. It crawled right on and stretched over the next few days to be exactly in the middle of the tensioner travel. Very nice. Had it on there for almost 2 months with no problems.
 
slytherin said:
What is to be gained by deleting the smog pump? weight savings? hp? both? I have seen this topic posted a couple of times and was interested in doing this as well.
In an effort to remove every single # that is not needed it's a great mod. It saves weight and saves the motor extra work. You have to be able to install it again if you have local emissions testing so save your stuff if you do it.
 
I just completed mine and removed the lines going to the back of the heads (and plugged them with a 9/16" short bolt), the tube going to the H-pipe and plugged the vac lines and capped the back of the air pump. I gutted my air pump, so the pulley spins freely (read FREE mod!). It really cleans up the engine bay! Maybe someday I will replace the gutted pump with pulley delete. I got some DETAILED instructions on the removal if anyone is interested. I did not make it, I gotta give credit to FLINTSTONE on AFM.
 
zenboy99 said:
Plus the engine bay looks alot nicer without all the smog stuff on. Makes changing plugs on the passenger side easier as well.
A little teaser..:p this is how easy it is to see plugs 3 & 4. I still have flashbacks of trying to squeeze my wrist b/t that chit to change 3 & 4. :nice:

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