I had an old truck that was having troubles passing DEQ. Tried Restore and passed with flying colors. It uses powdered lead, copper and silver insead of just thickening up your oil. Fills in the scratches in bearings cylinder walls etc. You might try going to heavier oil also. The only bad side effect after running that f150 another 100,000.00 miles I finaly had the engine rebuilt and the lead ruined the solution in the hot tank.
smoking problem..
- Thread starter ShAkE N BaKe!!
- Start date
smoke problem
Find a repair shop that caries BG products and get a can of Quick Clean. It is a mild solvent put it in oil and idle for 15 - 30 min do not rev engine.It can clean the oil rings and may slow oil burning I have seen it stop it completly and also do nothing.
It should cost $10-15 better than an overhaul. Good luck Ps change oil after
Find a repair shop that caries BG products and get a can of Quick Clean. It is a mild solvent put it in oil and idle for 15 - 30 min do not rev engine.It can clean the oil rings and may slow oil burning I have seen it stop it completly and also do nothing.
It should cost $10-15 better than an overhaul. Good luck Ps change oil after
Do a compression test to determine/rule out possible piston ring failure.
If it burns oil, there's generally only three ways for oil to get into the combustion chamber:
Worn or broken piston rings, or damaged pistons (Ring lands)
Worn valve stem seals
Leaking head gasket
The easiest to fix out of the above is the valve stem seals. You'll need a cheap tool and new seals, maybe new valve cover gaskets etc... off the top of my head,
I'd say the total cost could be around $50. You can probably get FREE loaner tools from Autozone or Advance Autoparts if you don't want to invest on a valve spring compressor. Make sure the well-used loaner works ok before you sign it out of the store
Being able to feed compressed air into the cylinder via the spark plug hole would help a lot. Adapters should be easy to find. While the cylinder is under pressure (Valves closed), you can listen to hissing sounds from the crankcase, and maybe compare the different cylinders to see if any are leaking pressure more than the others. A proper leakdown test would require a gauge but this is a crude way of guesstimating it.
You will also need to know the install depth for the stem seals. You don't drive them all the way down usually. If the new seals are identical with the old ones, you can use same install height.
Jan
If it burns oil, there's generally only three ways for oil to get into the combustion chamber:
Worn or broken piston rings, or damaged pistons (Ring lands)
Worn valve stem seals
Leaking head gasket
The easiest to fix out of the above is the valve stem seals. You'll need a cheap tool and new seals, maybe new valve cover gaskets etc... off the top of my head,
I'd say the total cost could be around $50. You can probably get FREE loaner tools from Autozone or Advance Autoparts if you don't want to invest on a valve spring compressor. Make sure the well-used loaner works ok before you sign it out of the store
Being able to feed compressed air into the cylinder via the spark plug hole would help a lot. Adapters should be easy to find. While the cylinder is under pressure (Valves closed), you can listen to hissing sounds from the crankcase, and maybe compare the different cylinders to see if any are leaking pressure more than the others. A proper leakdown test would require a gauge but this is a crude way of guesstimating it.
You will also need to know the install depth for the stem seals. You don't drive them all the way down usually. If the new seals are identical with the old ones, you can use same install height.
Jan
Similar threads
Forced Induction
On3 Turbo Kit- Parts list NEEDED - 302 Stock Motor