SN95 spindle user got a question

[trents99]

I've been noticing since swapping to the SN95 stuff that when I go over a break in the asphalt or pot hole what sounds like metal to metal rattling from both sides. At first I thought it was the dust shields and moved them back and then thought maybe the pads were loose somehow. Today I was looking under there with the front suspension loaded and it looks and feels like the bottom of the strut is hitting the spindle where it attaches to the ball joint.

I swapped in SN95 ball joints when I swapped so no need for the spacer. When I put everything together I tightened the spindle to the BJ but because the Fox struts are shorter I couldn't line up the strut to spindle bolts. So I had to loosen the spindle/BJ and put the strut on and then tighten everything up. Now with the strut attached there was no way I could get a ratchet in there to tighten the spindle/BJ nut. When looking today it doesn't look like the spindle got pressed down on the BJ all the way because I couldn't get enough leverage with a wrench.

So basically what I'm asking is what are the steps you used to get the spindle to BJ nut tightened down and what did you use to tighten it?

PS don't post the link to Matt's site because that's where I got the original instructions

 

[Shakerhood]

I used FMS lower A Arms and the first thing I did after getting the A Arms in was bolted the spindle onto the balljoint and torqued it and put the cotter pin through. After I got the spring installed I hooked the strut up to the spindle. I did use Bullitt Springs, Struts, and Shocks though. Maybe you need to switch to SN95 Struts.

 

[trents99]

I was reading about the SN95 struts last night but wanted to avoid spending more money right now. I thought I read if you go with the SN95 struts you need to get CC plates also.

 

[Mavrick]

What you heard about needing CC plates with SN95 struts is a load of crap. Why don't you try torquing your balljoint down with a wrench+cheater bar?

 

[Shakerhood]

I was reading about the SN95 struts last night but wanted to avoid spending more money right now. I thought I read if you go with the SN95 struts you need to get CC plates also.

I did use CC plates on my install, but I did it for adjustment purpose, not because I needed them.

 

[TC93]

Ever since I added C&C plates to mine I hae the same thunck noise when I go over hole's and some dips. Sounds like the strut is fully extending and the only thing I could think of to fix is SN-95 struts. The top of the strut is sitting up hight in the strut tower with the CC plates..

 

[Mavrick]

edit: nevermind got off track. I still think you should re-torque your spindle to balljoint nut with a wrench and cheater bar.

 

[Shakerhood]

The proper torque for the ball joint nut is 110-150 Ft Lbs, did you check the torque on it with your torque wrench?

 

[trents99]

Okay I figured it out. The ball joints were torqued down to nearly within spec. The rattling noise I get is from the brake pad on the outer portion of the caliper. When everything is mounted up the pad moves around about an 1/8 of an inch. Any reason this would happen? I bought pads from Autozone and all it came with were pads and the metal strip to stop them from being noisey.