Progress Thread Snow - 93 GT Vert. Prepping for sale
- Thread starter JAA
- Start date
Allows you to roll the motor over without being behind the steering wheel. Most call it a bump switch as it allows you to "bump" the motor so you can run the valves.
Amazon product ASIN B00OPVYHZ4
I rarely need one so I just pull all the plugs and roll it over by hand with a socket and long ratchet wrench. Those that use them frequently can stop a motor on a dime and can run valves really quick.
Amazon product ASIN B00OPVYHZ4
I rarely need one so I just pull all the plugs and roll it over by hand with a socket and long ratchet wrench. Those that use them frequently can stop a motor on a dime and can run valves really quick.
You should be able to fix it by pulling the drink holder out, remove said Dodge from the garage, drive any other vehicle into the shop, install the drink holder and enjoy.
Spring has been busy. Lots of car work, just not with the fox.
Just finished cleaning all rocker bits. All assembled.
Gonna start tightening down valvetrain. Using these 2 videos as previously posted.
Gonna use this basic method of rotating cylinders 90deg and following firing order.
FIring order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Just finished cleaning all rocker bits. All assembled.
Gonna start tightening down valvetrain. Using these 2 videos as previously posted.
Gonna use this basic method of rotating cylinders 90deg and following firing order.
FIring order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Complete: 1, 3, 7, 2, 6,
Good illustration: https://lmr.com/products/302-firing-order
So just got done 6, moved 90deg to go to 5. Unfortunately, this is what 5 looks like:
What did I miss? I checked each rocker visually before tightening down and they all were low
Good illustration: https://lmr.com/products/302-firing-order
So just got done 6, moved 90deg to go to 5. Unfortunately, this is what 5 looks like:
What did I miss? I checked each rocker visually before tightening down and they all were low
Its just not on the base circle of the cam.... I just use a bump switch on the starter relay until it is, as long as its on the base and not lift area of the lobe your fine to adjust adjust them.
Yea, life.
I could start a thread just on the 2016 Hyundai Elantra and its
ty suspension/steering design. Basically, if you break a lug stud you have to remove the entire hub assembly. Being in a salt state, this includes the bearing and knuckle. Gawd that was annoying. On the 2008 elantra you can literally pound out the stud and replace it for $8.
It seems the lifters in cylinder 5 are sticking. If I poke them down they will go. Not a push them down, like an unsticking and they fall down.
I dont have TDC confidence anymore as I was trying to understand why the lifter wouldnt go down. Gonna need to do that annoying thing again
Otherwise all done. Any double checks I need to do?
Otherwise all done. Any double checks I need to do?
I believe im back at TDC
Unless there is anything else, time to start watching the reassembly videos. Also need to get the electric fan wired up. If anyone has any remaining pointers, now is the time.
Unless there is anything else, time to start watching the reassembly videos. Also need to get the electric fan wired up. If anyone has any remaining pointers, now is the time.
Install intake manifold
Questions:
- Gasket sealer around water jackets?
- Use sealer instead of the gasket on the front end back end of the intake seating
Questions:
- How do I find the torque specs of my specific intake? Should I just shoot for 20ft/lbs as its aluminum?
So if it were me I would stud the lower intake. They pull down better and you are not turning a bolt into aluminum threads while pulling up on the threads. With the studs you are turning a nut on the top of the stud that is in turn pulling upwards on the threads at the bottom of the stud with no turning. Witt that they will have way less of a chance to strip the aluminum threads in the heads and the compression on the gasket is a lot better.
I got the studs for both of mine at O'Reillys (believe they were Dorman) and had to thread the upper part farther down the stud as there were not enough threads. If I were to do it again I would get the ARP 354-2103 intake studs. My enginer builder had me ditch the regular washers and get 5/16" plain finish williams washers.
Amazon product ASIN B005ASZ1HO
Not saying this is cheap by any means but after I stripped a couple of the intake threads on my AFR185's it would have been money well spent.
Stole this from a post by jrichker:
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
The bolts are torqued down in a 3 step process.
Step 1 8 ft/lbs
Step 2 16 ft/lbs
Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs
I got the studs for both of mine at O'Reillys (believe they were Dorman) and had to thread the upper part farther down the stud as there were not enough threads. If I were to do it again I would get the ARP 354-2103 intake studs. My enginer builder had me ditch the regular washers and get 5/16" plain finish williams washers.
Amazon product ASIN B005ASZ1HO
Not saying this is cheap by any means but after I stripped a couple of the intake threads on my AFR185's it would have been money well spent.
Stole this from a post by jrichker:
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
The bolts are torqued down in a 3 step process.
Step 1 8 ft/lbs
Step 2 16 ft/lbs
Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs
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