so has anyone blown an engine
- Thread starter WRXracer
- Start date
white99gt
Founding Member
WRXracer said:
Never trust the factory chip.SOme have had good lucky.Others the cars wont run or it kills the motor.
Best thing is get the car tuned after the blower install.
white99gt
Founding Member
99RedGTman said:
If the compression is good and the motor is well taken care of, up to around 10psi or so.
But with that many miles, id plan on a rebuild in the future just in case.
Because you never know what can happen.
white99gt
Founding Member
99RedGTman said:
More than the stock bottomend will handle.
Roughly 450+rwhp depending on the tune.
DeadLurker
Daily Driven
wjfawb0
Founding Member
Take white99gt's advice and go to a dyno where they can either reburn your chip or reflash your computer. You need a good dyno tune to maximize power across the rpms and also to make sure you're not going to change the shape of your rods, pistons and maybe even crank. 
That's bad.
That's bad.
hognutz
New Member
I don't have a blower but I would buy some tool to monitor your air fuel if I did. I don't think you nessesarily need a "dyno" tune. you just need to verify your airfuel. without that you are asking for trouble in my opinion. I have read to many people post about sending the chip back and forth trying to get the tune right. I live in oregon and there is just no real good places I have found for this kind of thing. I think I am just going to buy the sct sofware and a tool to monitor my air fuel and try to do it myself.
Too make a short story long there is no way someone can optimize your car with out taking a look at what your car is doing. They can only take a "guess". now I am sure you could log your own data and email it to someone and they could hook you up. Like if you bought the cobra killer kit, or kenne bell and put it together. logged you air fuel under load. then sent that data to that tuner. they could proably nail it right on. I want to just do it myself so I no loger feel like a dumbass when it comes to tuning newer cars.
Too make a short story long there is no way someone can optimize your car with out taking a look at what your car is doing. They can only take a "guess". now I am sure you could log your own data and email it to someone and they could hook you up. Like if you bought the cobra killer kit, or kenne bell and put it together. logged you air fuel under load. then sent that data to that tuner. they could proably nail it right on. I want to just do it myself so I no loger feel like a dumbass when it comes to tuning newer cars.
CTGrey02
Founding Member
hognutz said:
Theres more to it than that, you also having timing tables, idle tables, along with the fuel management. Several products including SCT and EFI will be out shortly for doing it yourself.
tontot77
Do I look like a :taco: in this picture?
I've blown the ringlands off piston #7 in my cobra. Don't boost unless you can afford a rebuild with some lower compression pistons and some non-hypercrap rods...
wjfawb0
Founding Member
I don't know if the thermal efficiency of the KB blower is up to par with that of the better centrifugals out there (how much heat the blower adds to the air when compressing it). I know I heard Tim mentioning high inlet temps on some KB cars. I know for certain that roots cars like my own make all sorts of intake heat in the high rpms. The air to water coolers also tend to heat soak after extended hard runs. It is not so easy to get the heat out of the water into the atmospheric air after it was taken out of the intake air charge.
With any forced induction, when you compress air the temp goes up. The air to air and air to water coolers take some of the heat back out before the air enters the cylinders, though. Usually you'll hear people refer to pulleying down their blower after installing an air to air cooler on a centrifugal car, to get back boost lost in the cooler. Cooling the air will drop the pressure, but the cooler will also restrict airflow more. You need to turn the blower faster to make up the airflow loss, but the cooler air allows more timing and shorter cool downs between track runs. Also on a hot day, the cooler will help to prevent engine damaging detonation or preignition. Many 03 Cobra owners are changing the heat exchanger for the blower cooler under the front bumper to a larger unit. This allows their air cooling system to hold more fluid and dissipate the heat more rapidly.
-Jason
With any forced induction, when you compress air the temp goes up. The air to air and air to water coolers take some of the heat back out before the air enters the cylinders, though. Usually you'll hear people refer to pulleying down their blower after installing an air to air cooler on a centrifugal car, to get back boost lost in the cooler. Cooling the air will drop the pressure, but the cooler will also restrict airflow more. You need to turn the blower faster to make up the airflow loss, but the cooler air allows more timing and shorter cool downs between track runs. Also on a hot day, the cooler will help to prevent engine damaging detonation or preignition. Many 03 Cobra owners are changing the heat exchanger for the blower cooler under the front bumper to a larger unit. This allows their air cooling system to hold more fluid and dissipate the heat more rapidly.
-Jason
I would agree with the statement above that it's not a good idea to add a blower or make major modifications unless you can afford a rebuild. Just makes sense. I just recently asked Tim about how I could back off the power in my car after adding a blower - I will have my cams done in February and I've got all the other basic bolt-ons (headers, midpipe, plenum, etc. etc.). The answer I got from him is that the car can be tuned to make it "safe" (being a relative term, of course) by taking out timing, etc.
Until I forge the bottom end I'm comfortable with the thought of making just under 400 RWHP. Now if the damn government would hurry up with that check.......
Until I forge the bottom end I'm comfortable with the thought of making just under 400 RWHP. Now if the damn government would hurry up with that check.......
So lets say you want 400RWHP. Would it be safer to get by using a 6# kit and changing either the cams or heads? This way you would'nt have as much boost in the motor . Or would the 9# kit be the way to go. Is 400 the hypothetical number before trouble?
hognutz
New Member
CTGrey02 said:
I though the sct sofware gave you control of all that?? From what I read it sounded vary complete. I guess I don't understand what you are saying. If you have a data logger and tuning sofware what else do you need? I guess maybe I was not clear when I said air fuel. I meant data log. that would include everthing. the air fuel is for the wot tunning.
