So I went to change the oil yesterday...(tech related)

[andrewVA]

I bought an 89 LX 5.0 (with 120k miles) a few weeks ago as a fun car/project and it has been running really rough since I brought it home. The computer said it had a bad ACT sensor so I replaced that and there was so much carbon buildup on it that I figured it would be good to run sea foam through the 120k engine. I still need to adjust the timing and the TPS voltage, but I've done all the other tune up stuff.
I put some of the sea foam in the tank and in the oil as well, so after the white smoke had stopped, I went to change the oil...

Unfortunately, it only drained about a quart out at the most. I even jacked up the rear of the car to force residual oil to the drain plug. The dipstick consistently reads above full and the car had great oil pressure when running.
My question is really about the design for the oil pan. Is there a second drain plug in the rear somewhere that I missed, or are there baffles inside that are catching the majority of the oil? Is it safe for me to probe with a screwdriver or something to see if there is a clog or do I run the risk of damaging the oil pump?
Any help in figuring out why my oil is trapped in the pan would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[srothfuss]

There are two drain plugs on the Mustang.

One in the front. One in the rear.

The one in the front = middle (cross-car) of the oil pan facing forward right behind the sway bar at the front of the engine

The one in the rear = bottom of the pan, almost towards the flywheel / bellhousing. It's facing straight down.

The front sump holds about 1 quart. The rear sump holds the other 3 quarts (Don't forget 1 quart in the oil filter)

 

[DMAN302]

The pan is a two sump style..there are two pan bolts, one on the rear bottom, one on the front "hump" of the pan.

 

[andrewVA]

Great news. Im new to Fox mustangs so I have a lot to learn. I always replace the filter during an oil change, so I wont forget about that. I just need to get that SOB off. Its too cramped to get my filter wrench in there and I haven't been able to move it by hand yet.
I assume the oil filler neck feeds both sumps or that once I run the engine, it will move the correct amount to each sump just by its operation?

 

[DemonGT]

yes, when filling with oil it will go to both....theres nothing seperating the two sumps..there's a hump in the pan as im sure you might of noticed for the steering rack to pass through

 

[srothfuss]

Correct: Just add in your brand / weight of oil and start it up... The oil pump will move the oil around to where it needs to go.

Tip for getting to the filter with a strap wrench: Change the filte from the top of the car. Slip the wrench down behind the PS pump and infront of the header. Use your fingers to slide it on the filter and then loosen the filter. You can also remove it through that same opening once you figure out how to rotate it so the oil doesn't spill out.

Some people like to pre-fill the new oil filter with oil before installing also... it saves time on circulating the oil to all of the vital engine parts.


Welcome to the boards...

 

[andrewVA]

Thanks for the tip. I'll try doing it from the top tonight assuming I get home before it gets dark

 

[5.0 Nostalgia]

I assume you found the second drain plug in the back where the majority of the oil resides. Concerning the oil filter, you can carefully move some of those hoses and things out of the way to get to the oil filter. I angle the wrench (swivel head) to fit it in.

Changing from the top is a pretty good idea too. I never thought of that one.

 

[wild86stang]

If you're new to oil filters and can't get them off by any other method try shoving a screwdriver all the way though then turning it. It's messy, but at the same time lets you take out aggression! lol

 

[HISSIN50]

Once you know that you have drained all the oil, do your change and then check your dipstick - some dipsticks were mismarked at the factory. If you need to, remark the stick with a correct full mark (my correct one is a ways above the original full mark).

Good luck.

 

[04sleeper]

Once you know that you have drained all the oil, do your change and then check your dipstick - some dipsticks were mismarked at the factory. If you need to, remark the stick with a correct full mark (my correct one is a ways above the original full mark).

Good luck.

Good advise JT.

Both my 89 coupe and my 88 GT were like that. (Reading over the mark)

 

[jerryD]

if you need to use a filter wrench, screwdriver or any other method than just your hand to remove it, it is on too tight.
(for a 302 at least)

 

[andrewVA]

Yeah it was on there really tight. I just hand tightened the new when I put it on. Tomorrow I'll check to see how the dipstick measures and mark it as necessary.

 

[willys1]

sorry,Im not laughing at you,,,Im picturing in my mind you jacking the back way up in the air to get the oil out!! ...How high did you go??

 

[65ShelbyClone]

if you need to use a filter wrench, screwdriver or any other method than just your hand to remove it, it is on too tight.
(for a 302 at least)

Not always the case. It isnt supposed to be on more than hand tight and 3/4 turn after contact anyway, yet I usually find my oil filters too snug to remove by hand. The rubber o-ring squeezes the oil out and eventually sticks to the block. The other case is not being able to get your hand on the filter due to space. My experience anyway .

 

[srothfuss]

From the top of the car, you can get your whole hand on the base of the filter. Or at least I can.

I snug all of my filters with a wrench, but hand tight will suffice if there are no leaks after start-up.

Another tip: When you remove the old filter, make sure the oil filter gasket comes off. If you don't check and double stack gaskets you will spray oil everywhere!

ALWAYS make sure the gasket comes off with the old filter.