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Solve my problem and Ill mail you 10$

  • Thread starter Thread starter rugster
  • Start date Start date Jul 9, 2009
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rugster

New Member
Aug 31, 2004
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Jul 9, 2009
#1
  • Jul 9, 2009
  • #1
My car seems to cut out and come right back on really quickly as of late...mostly when I make a left turn. It will buck really hard until i put the clutch in. At a stop I can rev it up and down all day, no problems. I don't understand why it only happens when the car is in motion.

It happens during normal acceleration as well, but it's a garantee when making a left....I dont get it
 
M

Mstg05

Member
Nov 23, 2004
103
0
16
Delaware county, pa
Jul 9, 2009
#2
  • Jul 9, 2009
  • #2
Complete guess, without anymore info given... but I'm gonna go with fuel pump.
 

95Vert383AOD

15 Year Member
Jun 10, 2008
1,133
34
69
New Bedford, MA
Jul 9, 2009
#3
  • Jul 9, 2009
  • #3
PIP/ Module or Fuel pressure regulator
 
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rconaway

Founding Member
Nov 11, 1999
1,415
3
39
Phoenix, Az.
Jul 10, 2009
#4
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #4
I had a similiar problem. Mine typically happened when I came off partial throttle from the freeway or just cruising down the street. Never did completely track it down but I would look at the voltage on the MAF when that happens.
 

RedDaemon

10 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
3,470
9
108
Atlanta, GA
Jul 10, 2009
#5
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #5
more info. how about right turns?
 
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rpburnette

Member
May 22, 2003
152
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16
Tampa, FL
Jul 10, 2009
#6
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #6
There are four things that you must have for combustion in a gas engine:
1.) compression
2.) air (oxygen)
3.) spark
4.) fuel

Since it seems to only happen when you move and not when you are sitting still than I would start checking the things that move when turning. Your air intake components should not be moving so check those to make sure they are secure. Check all wires such as maf wires, plug wires, basically all electrical wires under hood. See how much movement they have. If some of them seem to rub against something, than secure it.

The most obvious thing that moves is your fuel, so I would definitely check all fuel components.

One other thing to check is your steering column. If it only happens when you turn left, than it could be something wrong with your ignition and it is cutting out when turning left. Try this, sit in neutral with your car turning and turn the wheel all the way to the left and right to see if you can similate the problem. Try turning it slow and fast.

Start with the simple things first.

Good luck
 
R

rugster

New Member
Aug 31, 2004
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Jul 10, 2009
#7
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #7
I replaced the battery. I checked the steering column and there arent any wires interfering with the movement. The buck has gotten worse and now happens no matter which way I turn, or even going straight. I jacked up the front end and looked underneath and everything looks just find. Engine grounds are securely connected, no wires loose, etc.

Another symptom is that when it occurs, it fires off the theft light. So maybe the theft light is actually the culprate, and is cutting the fuel off?
 

RedDaemon

10 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
3,470
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108
Atlanta, GA
Jul 10, 2009
#8
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #8
could it be a grounding issue?

seems electrical related for sure
 

squeak93

15 Year Member
Jun 2, 2005
2,269
367
164
Joplin, Missouri
Jul 10, 2009
#9
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #9
I say fuel filter or fuel pump.
 

streethorse

15 Year Member
Oct 8, 2005
1,042
6
58
Dallas Texas
Jul 10, 2009
#10
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #10
[

Another symptom is that when it occurs, it fires off the theft light. So maybe the theft light is actually the culprate, and is cutting the fuel off?[/QUOTE]

Try setting off the alarm on purpose to see if it works normaly.
 
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rpburnette

Member
May 22, 2003
152
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16
Tampa, FL
Jul 10, 2009
#11
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #11
Just some ideas.


Is your car throwing codes?

How is the theft light going off. Is it always on, flashing rapidly, etc.?

I did a little searching and found some people have had problems with the PATS key system (security system). Try another key if you have one. As I understand it, if the key is your problem, only the Ford dealership can fix it.
 
R

rugster

New Member
Aug 31, 2004
156
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Jul 10, 2009
#12
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #12
The car is not throwing any codes.

The theft light sometimes blinks, and sometimes is on continuously.

I don't think it would be the fuel pump or filter because the car revs perfectly normal when it isn't moving.

I thought it was a grounding issue but I checked all the wires and the main ground is still secured to the k member/frame area.

I am going to retune the computer tonight and see what happens. Maybe a flash to the system will wake this baby up.
 

squeak93

15 Year Member
Jun 2, 2005
2,269
367
164
Joplin, Missouri
Jul 10, 2009
#13
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #13
If your Theft light is flashing, that is your issue. There is a pats module in the column. Do a little google research and you will find a lot of good info on it. Odds are either your key or the module are going bad... maybe both.
 

johnnyt03gt

5 Year Member
Mar 15, 2008
453
5
29
dallas TX
Jul 10, 2009
#14
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #14
squeak93 said:
If your Theft light is flashing, that is your issue. There is a pats module in the column. Do a little google research and you will find a lot of good info on it. Odds are either your key or the module are going bad... maybe both.
Click to expand...


I had same problem turns I put too mouch oil on my
K&n filter mesed up the maf had to clean it that worked
Posted via Mobile Device
 
D

Dragstr05

New Member
Dec 21, 2004
643
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0
Stafford VA
Jul 10, 2009
#15
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #15
Thought this was going to be an easy one...

The PATS, which it seems to be pointing at cuts out either fuel or spark from what I remember. Hence why with an un-programmed key, you can turn the car on, use all accessories and even crank, but it will not start.

The really sad thing about this is, if it is PATS related you will be taking it to the dealer. Pretty much no way around it. Replace the module, and the existing keys will need re-programmed to the new computer and visa versa.

Just about the only thing you can do is go fishing around wires and hope you find a culprit, provided its PATS related. Connectors can get corroded, and wires get brittle and will crack/break even inside the looms where you can't see them. Get access to the harnesses in the column, let it idle and perform a "wiggle test". Give random harnesses a little shake to see if it helps to narrow down your problem.

Good luck.
 

COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 2, 2003
8,474
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223
Sea of Tranquility
Jul 10, 2009
#16
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #16
While I thought my issues were PATS related it turned out I have a wire on one of my O2 sensors was nicked and was shorting out on the mounting tray. Look to any work you have had done recently, like within the last 6 months and start by looking at any wiring in that area.

My problem was exactly as you described...theft light would flash and it would buck as it was shutting down and restarting. I'm almost positive you have a short somewhere.
 
R

rugster

New Member
Aug 31, 2004
156
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Jul 10, 2009
#17
  • Jul 10, 2009
  • #17
I found an 02 sensor connector that was melted from touching the exhaust and had an exposed wire. I'll replace it tomorrow an it looks like COramprat may be 10$ richer!
 

COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 2, 2003
8,474
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Jul 11, 2009
#18
  • Jul 11, 2009
  • #18
 
R

rugster

New Member
Aug 31, 2004
156
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0
Jul 12, 2009
#19
  • Jul 12, 2009
  • #19
Sry COrampart that didn't do the trick...I think i'll put an svt focus pump in and see if that cures the issue. And if it's not that it's goin to the stealership for a diagnostic.
 

COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 2, 2003
8,474
1,463
223
Sea of Tranquility
Jul 12, 2009
#20
  • Jul 12, 2009
  • #20
Oh well...but you did fix one problem.

I wouldn't have taken the money anyway.
 
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