More Issues With New Edge

B

Blackout67

Member
Apr 13, 2025
26
2
13
Cincinnati
#1
I have a 03 New Edge with the 3.8 and T5 manual, 88k on the clock. Recently I've been having issues with it bucking and stalling.

The stalling is completely random. First time it happened I was I pulling up to a light and it died a couple seconds before I stopped. Clutch was in. Then a week later I started it and it died after about 6 seconds of idling. Tonight I started it and it died after a few seconds, started it again and it died after a few seconds. Pulled put of work and down the street about 20 seconds later it died pulling up to a red light as I was coasting in neutral.

As for the bucking it is also random. I will shift and 2-3 seconds later the engine stumbles and starts bucking. Not super strong, doesn't throw me around or anything but I have to clutch in and blip throttle for it to stop but then sometimes when I shift in the next gear it starts again

As far as I can tell I have no vacuum leaks, brakes works very well, no problems accelerating, idles so smooth and quite I forget it's running, starts right up and gets up to speed smoothly with no issues when everything is going good.

I will goes days without having issues or sometimes it will happen for a couple days in a row. I did have a CEL for downstream 02 sensor but that went away and I was having the issues before that came up anyways.

Any suggestions?
 
#3
If it's 88k on the original fuel pump and sock, I'd change it.

Sounds like it is trying to give you a "heads up".

You [could] install a fuel pressure gauge to monitor when this happens but that would be delaying the inevitable IMO.
 
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#5
Blackout67 said:
dang I had 190k on the stock fuel pump on my last new edge. Thanks for the help
Click to expand...

It's not a guarantee but zero codes and the intermittent nature of the failure, points me to a fuel supply issue. Junk fuel, ethanol being as prevalent as it is now... Whether it needed it or not, I'd replace the fuel pump.

Lets also not forget that in 2005, your fuel pump came here on a boat.
 
#6
Noobz347 said:
It's not a guarantee but zero codes and the intermittent nature of the failure, points me to a fuel supply issue. Junk fuel, ethanol being as prevalent as it is now... Whether it needed it or not, I'd replace the fuel pump.

Lets also not forget that in 2005, your fuel pump came here on a boat.
Click to expand...
Alright. Is there anything else that it could that I could check?
 
#7
I wouldn't call it a "trend" but lately, I've seen a bump in evap systems, in and around your model year.

You don't have a code which means the sensor should be fine but if there's a [leak] somewhere in that system, and your issues are occurring at or around idle or light throttle, then it would present itself as an intermittent issue.

Your description though, would lead me to believe that leak is at or near one of the solenoids. If the solenoid itself were malfunctioning, you should see a code.

This theory is more of a long-shot but... You could rent a smoke machine, get the thing up to temp, and try to test for an intermittent leak in the EVAP system.



One other possibility worthy of note would be ignition coils or wires. Start the car cold, at night, with the hood open. Look for 'lightning leaks'. Mist some water into the engine bay with a garden hose. Listen for stumble and look for lightning leaks again.


That's all I got :shrug: Let the thread seep a bit over the weekend and see if somebody has other suggestions.
 
#8
Noobz347 said:
I wouldn't call it a "trend" but lately, I've seen a bump in evap systems, in and around your model year.

You don't have a code which means the sensor should be fine but if there's a [leak] somewhere in that system, and your issues are occurring at or around idle or light throttle, then it would present itself as an intermittent issue.

Your description though, would lead me to believe that leak is at or near one of the solenoids. If the solenoid itself were malfunctioning, you should see a code.

This theory is more of a long-shot but... You could rent a smoke machine, get the thing up to temp, and try to test for an intermittent leak in the EVAP system.



One other possibility worthy of note would be ignition coils or wires. Start the car cold, at night, with the hood open. Look for 'lightning leaks'. Mist some water into the engine bay with a garden hose. Listen for stumble and look for lightning leaks again.


That's all I got :shrug: Let the thread seep a bit over the weekend and see if somebody has other suggestions.
Click to expand...
Well today when I left for work it died 3 times. Before it died the 3rd time it was sputtering really bad like it'd try to idle then it'd drop to almost stalling rpms then back up then back down then finally died. When I started it the 4th time an engine light popped on. On the way to work it did the bucking thing when I shifted to 4th. I had to down shift to 3rd and back into 4th to get it to stop and when I pulled into work the idle went down to like 500 then back up to normal.

See my initial thought was the coil pack cause my old mustang would idle really rough until I changed out the coil pack which solved it. Bit it never had the bucking issue and it never stalled on me, although I did replace the coil pack pretty soon after I bought it caught the rough idle annoyed me


I just really hope it isn't the fuel pump. The passenger side ball joint and CV axel on my girls accord just broke the other day and that's gonna be $300 in just parts :/
 
#9
Blackout67 said:
Well today when I left for work it died 3 times. Before it died the 3rd time it was sputtering really bad like it'd try to idle then it'd drop to almost stalling rpms then back up then back down then finally died. When I started it the 4th time an engine light popped on. On the way to work it did the bucking thing when I shifted to 4th. I had to down shift to 3rd and back into 4th to get it to stop and when I pulled into work the idle went down to like 500 then back up to normal.
Click to expand...

This description increases my suspicion of the fuel pump.

If you were to pull those codes now, you'll probably find [O2 sensor out of range] [system lean] or something along those lines.
 
#13
OK more Info. So on my break i went up to the parts store to get scanned again. It's still giving the code for 02 but now it's for the cam position sensor.

I'm thinking this might be causing it?

Edit: I did some research on the CPS and apparently the alternator and CPS are tied to each other. When the alternator goes bad it messes up the CPS and causes the symptoms I've mentioned. Most people say replacing the alternator first usually fixes it then if the issue persists, it needs the CPS replaced
 
Last edited:
#16
Well I got the new alternator and for the most part it fixed itself. After I installed it, it stopped dying at idle and was shifting good, took it to Walmart and back with no issues. Engine light is gone

Then just now I went up to the gas station and it seemed to be running a little rough and then it started doing the jerking when I pulled on the road and when I pulled into the gas station it died, restarted it and it died again. Then on the way back it didn't do it at all so I guess I'm gonna have to replace the CPS
 
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