Connect the large cable from the starter to the positive battery cable side of your existing fenderwell solenoid.
Connect a small gauge wire, about #12, from the former starter terminal of your existing fenderwell solenoid to the new starter small terminal on it's solenoid.
The new starter needs 12V to it at all times at the large terminal and has it's own solenoid to put power to the starter windings to spin the starter motor and the solenoid also engages the bendix drive with the flywheel.
Don't just conenct a wire direct on the starter from the large post to the small post, The starter will stay engaged and not quit because it then acts as a generator when the engine is running, preventing the starter mounted solenoid from disengaging.
Connect a small gauge wire, about #12, from the former starter terminal of your existing fenderwell solenoid to the new starter small terminal on it's solenoid.
The new starter needs 12V to it at all times at the large terminal and has it's own solenoid to put power to the starter windings to spin the starter motor and the solenoid also engages the bendix drive with the flywheel.
Don't just conenct a wire direct on the starter from the large post to the small post, The starter will stay engaged and not quit because it then acts as a generator when the engine is running, preventing the starter mounted solenoid from disengaging.
Can you explain that for me? I ran one for years and never experienced that issue...
Not trying to argue, genuine question.
If power is cut by the fender solenoid how can it stay engaged
Electrical science stuff, something about electrical spike or something that causes feed back (?) that makes the solenoid to stay engaged, doesn't happen all the time but when it does it can be devastating, I have my mini starter jumpered and the drive will 'run on' for a second after cranking but doesn't stay engaged in the fly wheel.
When I put this junk back together I plan on using the solenoid to solenoid method, it is the correct way to wire it.
You likely have a bad starter drive.
get a starter from rockauto or the local parts store, it's a common replacement part, 93-4-5 5.0 starter will work.
You could try replacing the starter drive too.
As I stated, if the starter is engaged and the engine fires up, then the starter becomes a generator, producing 12V at the large terminals and feeding 12V to the solenoid on the starter, keeping the unit engaged.
When direct wired from the large post on the starter solenoid to the small post.
1 way to overcome this is to use a diode from the small solenoid post on the starter to the large 12V + post, thereby only feeding current in 1 directon, from the battery to the solenoid.
Once the primary, fenderwell solenoid disengages, it doesn't allow current flow backwards thru the diode into the starter solenoid.
I'm not good at pictures, but there are many write ups an pictures about how to do this on the interwebs.
Pull the starter and take it to your local auto-parts store. The starter has a mechanism inside that will push the starter gear out to engage the flywheel and then retract it when it's deenergized. Sounds like this mechanism is not operating properly and having a parts store test it will likely confirm this
There's nothing special about the starter really. Any 91-95 starter would be a direct bolt in. Just need to do a slight rewire but looks like you've done this.
Energizing the solenoid is what causes the pinion to stick out, and to spin.
There's nothing special about the starter really. Any 91-95 starter would be a direct bolt in. Just need to do a slight rewire but looks like you've done this.
Energizing the solenoid is what causes the pinion to stick out, and to spin.
OK, too much time between that post and now, and recently had an issue with a person that bought a starter from LMR and all he kept saying was 'but it is brand new from LMR ' I kid you not I threw it into the trash can and replaced it with the one off my car.
I have issues.