Some motorsport lowering spring concerns

The only thing I can recommend is to go with stock springs and cut a coil off. That is the only thing that I know of that has a 1/2" to 1" drop. Doing the spring change is easy. I did mine (lowered) in about an hour all by my self. pretty easy if you have two jacks.

Chris

I bought the Motorsport B springs because as you know driving through south jersey roads is like going off road...especially driving through Camden / Philly. I dunno how people drive through cities with 2" drops with out severe body dmg.
Anyways, the B springs are great and pretty much kept the car feeling stock cept for lowering my car an inch all around. I thought the C's would be too stiff along with poly bushings, so thats why I stuck with B's, in the end Im very happy with the B's and would gladly buy them again.

I understood your post, I just did not know that there were such a thing as B or C springs. Guess I should get my FRPP catalog out and read it now and then (if I can find it). I like my 1.5 " drop but the freeway can be hell, and I am sure the jersey roads SUCK ASS! Good luck finding some good springs. Worst case, go back to stock or even coil overs and adjust the ride you want.

Chris

I don't know much about the FRPP B or C springs since I have the H&R's.
But I can tell you this is probably the easiest and safest way to change springs.

Courtesy of MFE on Corral

Here's my write-up, if you were using it already, read it again and you shouldn't have any problems. Don't be worried if the car starts to lift off the stands and don't sweat getting them in place, some careful poking and prodding and prying will get everything lined up just fine.

This is the procedure I’ve used to change front springs in a Fox-body Mustang without the use of a spring compressor, which due to packaging of the front end components is often a source of frustration. And unlike other methods that require disconnecting the struts and actually prying the springs in and out, this one lets the spring completely decompress so that no unsafe prying is required.

Bear in mind that compressed springs contain a lot of stored energy. I am documenting the steps I took to perform this operation and although I am comfortable performing this task you should know that as with any job if you do it you do so at your own risk.

Required tools:

- Floor jack
- a 2nd jack, a bottle jack is preferred (and cheap) but a small floor jack will suffice
- 2 Jackstands
- some blocks of wood or other stand for the bottle jack
- A roofing bar (preferred) or other crowbar-type thing
- A good socket wrench is preferred, with the following sockets mandatory, box wrenches a less attractive alternative:
--- 21 mm deep
--- 24 mm deep
--- 15 mm deep
- penetrating oil
- a "persuader" made of a roughly 12-inch length of roughly 2-inch pipe. Slipped over a wrench and used to effectively lengthen it, it is invaluable when it comes to applying real torque to really tight bolts.
- a small hammer
- a medium sized flat blade screwdriver

Now on to how I've done the install:

Block the rear wheels, raise the front, and place jackstands in the inboard ends of the K-member, inboard of where the control arms attach. Keep in mind you'll want all available floor space to place the jacks under the inner side of the A-arm so the stands will need to be pretty close together.

Remove the front tires. Undo the lower swaybar end links (15 mm deep).

Spray some penetrating oil on the nuts and bolts that attach the inner end of the A-arm to the K-member.

Loosen the inner a-arm bolts but do not remove the bolts yet. You won't be able to, but don't even try. Breaking these loose will require a lot of torque on the 24mm. The bolt on the other end is 21 mm, put a wrench on that for leverage.

With the nuts loose, place a floor jack at the inside lip of the A-arm, between the mounting ears.

Raise the jack until you can see the tension taken off one of the bolts (probably the rearward one first). Punch the bolt out with a small hammer and jockey with the jack until you can remove the bolt. You may want to insert the screwdriver to keep things roughly centered while you remove the other bolt, just don’t forget to remove the screwdriver before lowering the assembly.

Place the second jack so it will raise the other ear of the arm while you position the rest of the arm with the first jack. The arm will bend a bit if unsupported so you need the second jack for the second bolt.

Notice that the spring is in a perch and can't squirt out. Notice it's in a perch at the top too. Notice that when you lower the jacks, the spring will decompress vertically and that thanks to the strut and the tie rod still being attached it is very unlikely the spring will ever squirt out. But don't have your head in the wheelwell nonetheless and if you're the real nervous type tie it to the K-member with a piece of rope or something. Lower it until the spring is fully decompressed, which will happen well before the jack gets to the bottom of its travel.

With the jack lowered and out of the way, swing the A-arm to the rear and the spring will practically fall out.

Cut the insulator off the bottom lengthwise so it will come off, then wind it onto the bottom of your new spring.

Clean off the crud out of the lower spring perch.

Position the spring so the bottom end (the one that isn't flattened) ends up between the two holes in the spring pocket. Position it in its pocket at the top, which may require raising the jack a bit just to hold it in place, and then get the jack positioned so the A-arm is roughly lined up.

Raise the jack and guide the A-arms into place. A little WD-40 type stuff on the pockets in the K-member eases the positioning process.

When you get at least one of the ears situated roughly (probably the rearward one), you'll probably have to pry on the ear out a bit to get the boltholes to line up. Insert the prybar from the bottom between the K-member pocket and the ear on the A-arm and you can move the arm in and out pretty easily. By being precise with the jack and prying a bit if necessary you'll be able to slip the bolt right through and seat it. Place the nut on it for safekeeping but don’t tighten it down yet.

Place the second jack under the other ear just like you did to remove its bolt, and positioning the jacks and wiggling things around as necessary, pop the second bolt through and install the nut but don’t tighten it.

DOUBLE CHECK that you haven't bumped a jackstand out of the way in the process. It’s easy to do because raising the A-arm will probably lift that side off the stand and it’s easy to bump it out of the way when you move the jack around. So easy you might not notice you moved it so trust me on this, before you lower the jacks, double check the placement of the jackstands.

Lower the jacks and put one under the balljoint and raise it until the assembly simulates ride height position. This is so the bushings get torqued down in their natural position (If you don't do this you'll be "preloading" the bushings when at ride height). This will probably raise that side off the jackstand a bit again but that’s OK, leave it right where it is for safety. Tighten the nuts down now. I don't have a torque reading but suffice to say it's tight as hell.

You're about 1.5 hours into the job and you're done with that side.

Don't replace the swaybar end link nuts until you finish with the other side.

Now do the other side as outlined above. Reattach the swaybar endlinks when you’re done. You may have to pry on them a bit to give yourself enough clearance. When all is said and done you should be about 3 hours down with the whole front done.

I had a 95 Vert with Motorsports springs cant remember "b" or 'C" with KYB shocks. they were OK for getting the car LOW but not handleing or Bottoming out.. I got a 94 cobra and it had on H&R's and Bilsteins Much better I do bottom out on the Vert cross brace but its not anywhere near as bad as the motorsports and KYB's. I also have the hotchkis CC plates.

the Ford springs are the cheep way to go but from my experience Id spend the $$ and get the H&R's and a better shock like Bilstien. Ive had both and wanted the Cheepest I could get... Now I know cheep isnt always the best way to go.

please help

i read the information on how to install the lowering springs i bought without a spring compressor, but would that work with my 95 5.O?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

I have the "C" springs. If you're wanting to raise your car DO NOT GET THESE. They lowered my car probably 1.5" -1.75" I love them tho, it sits perfectly and the ride quality didn't suffer much either!

Like what was already suggested, I think you should probably just get some factory springs and cut a coil off, then install them. That should give you the drop you desire.

I love my C-springs... I just installed them a couple of weeks ago. It definitely drops them more than advertised. I droped about 1.5" in the front and 1" in the back.

Check out the Steeda Sport springs. They only lower 7/8 to 1" under stock height. I've been told that they don't even require CC plates. The ride is good, I'm told, and handling is much better than stock. My .02.

Dude, just get coilovers and solve the problem definitively. If you dont like where the car is sitting, jack it up and dail some extra height in. Saves weight too: lots of it.

I have "C" springs and they are great for corner carving but I honestly hate them. My car smashes over every bump (my street makes driving offroad look easy) and it has basically no ride quality. It's like having the wheels hard mounted to the frame. B springs at the most if you will go that route but coilovers are still better in my humble opinion for their tunability.

I switched out the FRPP springs for Eibach pro-kit. The FRPP springs I had were a specific rate spring that didn't really corner too great. The Eibach's didn't drop the car that much (1"-1.25") and it handles much better with the progressive rate coils. The Eibach sport-kit will lower more (1.5" to 1.75"). Don't cut a coil off the stockers and don't heat them up in order to lower your car. Do it right and get new springs with new smaller bump stops and snubber. I didn't take my a-arm off to install the springs like mentioned above. The stockers will pop right out with no tension on them by the time the a-arm swings all the way down. The FRPP will go in without a spring compressor and the Eibach Pro's require a spring compressor. I got mine from Eastwoods (I know but I needed it asap) for about $30.