Some thought..or questions on rack replacement.

[DMAN302]

Well with spring just a few weeks away (yeah right sorry...) I am looking at replacing my rack...as of late it's resembles a fountain more than a steering rack, and I have some questions regarding install and maintaining alignment. Now first question is: with the replacement rack and Tie rods (trw brand), will the overall dimensions (ie overall total length end to end) be identical to the present rack installed in the car..provided the lock to lock ratio is the same?
Second: by measuring the distance from tie rod end to end with rack on the car wouldn't the alignment remain identical if the overal measurement of the new rack and tie rods were the same distance?
Third: if the distances are not identical could I not take a measurement from the distance across the inner lip of the front wheel from side to side and use that as a guide line for accuracy?
I basically hate the idea of bringing my car into a shop for most any reason when I can correct or perform the task myself. Take a read of my questions and correct or add anything you can think of.
D.

 

[QDRHRSE]

You have the right idea. You can replace the rack without an alignment.....but why would you? It never hurts to have your car aligned.

 

[rd]

Suggestions from someone who has changed a dozen or so of these..

Just buy the replacement rack for your year and car. Get the GT rack if you have a gt, the ratio is quicker. Long racks come with inner tie rods, you will most likely have to reuse your present outers, unless you buy new ones.

Do you best to get the alignment reset, match the adjusted length as best you can, but don't worry too much. You will need an alignment immediately. I usually make the alignment appointment before changing the rack.

Some notes. Racks from Tbirds, Fairmonts, Mustangs, etc, all interchange in that they will bolt in. However, Tbird racks have longer inner tie rods, and the outers may not have enough thread to get alignment in a Mustang. You will have toe out. You can tap the outers deeper if needed. 9/16 fine thread bottoming tap.

There are at least two stub shafts, round ones with a master spline and ones with a flat to index the steering coupler. You must have the correct style for your steering coupler. Both styles work if you have the correct steering coupler. Manual rack couplers are different again.

There are some variations in hose end fittings. Most racks come with a selection of fitting adapters, etc to allow connection.

Other than that, theres nothing to it.

 

[jrichker]

Some thoghtful tips...

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

 

[DMAN302]

I actually may have isolated the leak to the section of the rack where the steering yoke enters the rack it's self..I may look into the possibility of a gasket rebuild kit. The boots are dry and in excellent condition and after just replacing the baljoints and struts I am quite sure the inner and outer rods are in good working order.