sound like a stator problem?

BlackVert

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Oct 3, 2003

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Bethesda, MD

Nov 10, 2004

#1

• Nov 10, 2004

• #1

Car sometimes cranks up to 15 seconds before starting.

Runs fine until warmed up.

Once warmed up, hesitates and stumbles upon acceleration. Seems to get worse the longer the car runs.

The more i read, the more it sounds like the stator is going bad, but the car has not died on me out of the blue (at least not yet) like other people have described when their stator has gone bad.

What are the symptoms of a TFI module going bad?

I have checked and replaced (or found to be good):

Fuel pressure regulator
Distributor cap/rotor
fuel pump
mass air meter

 

TrueBlue95GT

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Sep 29, 2003

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Nov 10, 2004

#2

• Nov 10, 2004

• #2

I'm having the same problem, so I'm interested in an answer. Mine feels like its something wrong with one of the sensors in closed loop, though, because whenever I turn off the car and turn it back on, the missing stops for a while.

 

BlackVert

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Nov 12, 2004

#3

• Nov 12, 2004

• #3

not the stator, i had it replaced yesterday.

here's the other thread that i started about it ...

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=512141

 

Jo_885o

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Jul 17, 2003

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Nov 12, 2004

#4

• Nov 12, 2004

• #4

Maybe its me but what the hell is a STATOR? Starter maybe

 

red94fiveo

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Nov 12, 2004

#5

• Nov 12, 2004

• #5

Jo_885o said:

Maybe its me but what the hell is a STATOR? Starter maybe

Click to expand...

The stator is also known as the pagnetic pickup and is housed inside the distributor. Here is a link to a much more detailed description. I had rotating assmebly in my dizzy go bad a couple months ago, and it was rubbing against the stator when the dizzy spun. As a result the car just died one day at about 30 mph.

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=542627&highlight=stator

About the problem, I would check the TFI coil if you've elinated the stator. I have a extra one I would let go of. I'll PM you.

 

HISSIN50

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#6

• Nov 12, 2004

• #6

stator is also called the PIP (profile ignition pick up, IIRC).

 

BlackVert

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Nov 12, 2004

#7

• Nov 12, 2004

• #7

it is also called the Hall Effect Sensor

 

J

jwater7

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Oct 9, 2004

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Nov 13, 2004

#8

• Nov 13, 2004

• #8

I had mine go out a few weeks ago. My symptoms were:
After the engine warmed up, it would stall.
Or, after the engine warmed up and then I shut it off, it wouldn't start.
If I left it alone for a while, it would usually start up again...but then the cycle would continue.

I paid something like 50 bucks for it, all it is, is just a "rotor position sensor" but technically, when a magnetic field is applied to a semiconductor, it will produce a small voltage (which in turn gets sent to the ignition module for timing purposes, I think).

Hope this helps,

jwater7

 

rude_life

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Jul 28, 2005

#9

• Jul 28, 2005

• #9

It has been said that when you lose the Stator, you also lose the injector pulsing. OK, so what exactly happens when you lose injector pulsing and in what way in the terms of symptoms might one experience that has lost injector pulsing due to a PIP Module (Stator) on the fritz?

 

BlackVert

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#10

• Jul 28, 2005

• #10

rude_life said:

It has been said that when you lose the Stator, you also lose the injector pulsing. OK, so what exactly happens when you lose injector pulsing and in what way in the terms of symptoms might one experience that has lost injector pulsing due to a PIP Module (Stator) on the fritz?

Click to expand...

 

HISSIN50

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#11

• Jul 29, 2005

• #11

rude_life said:

It has been said that when you lose the Stator, you also lose the injector pulsing. OK, so what exactly happens when you lose injector pulsing and in what way in the terms of symptoms might one experience that has lost injector pulsing due to a PIP Module (Stator) on the fritz?

Click to expand...

I think I am the one who said that.

The PIP tells the puter base spark timing and injector timing. The TFI only modulates spark advance. So this is a means to differentiate whether a PIP or TFI went south (it is REAL easy to fry a PIP with a DMM doing Ohm testing).

A noid light (3 bucks at the parts store) will tell one if they have injector firing (the puter sends a ground pulse to the injectors, not 12 volts, to energize injectors).

If one loses TFI or PIP altogether, the car cranks but wont start.

 

rude_life

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#12

• Jul 29, 2005

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Well lately it has been cranking over a whole lot before firing up. Never did that before, just used to fire right up.

 

rude_life

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#13

• Jul 29, 2005

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Well lately it has been cranking over a whole lot before firing up. Never did that before, just used to fire right up.

 

HISSIN50

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#14

• Jul 29, 2005

• #14

rude_life said:

Well lately it has been cranking over a whole lot before firing up. Never did that before, just used to fire right up.

Click to expand...

If you have a fuel pressure gauge Kris, note the values you get before priming and after priming.
Or, just cycle the ignition key a few times before trying to start the car for the first time. This will give the pump some extra prime time and may be all that the issue is (not that it will be, but it certainly is worth a shot).

Good luck.

 

rude_life

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#15

• Jul 29, 2005

• #15

Well i always allow the pump at least 10 seconds to prime before I crank, but my pump is only 2 months old. Also i have replaced the fuel filter recently. The issue with the cranking alot before starting just started. I must check my fuel pressure.

 

Zero Signal

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Jul 29, 2005

#16

• Jul 29, 2005

• #16

The pump shuts off at 3 seconds anyway.

Anyhoo, I had the same problem, it turned out to be a puddle in the distributor from when I went through a foot and a half of water at 30mph

 

rude_life

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#17

• Jul 29, 2005

• #17

I just had my dizzy halfway apart yesterday and didnt see anything like that. I have replaced all of the usual suspects though. Fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, 02 sensors, MAF sensor, Air Charge Temp sensor, Coolant Temp Sensor, New Plugs and wires with correct gapping, new cap and rotor, new coil, adjusted timing, always run 91 octane. Damn car

 

HISSIN50

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#18

• Jul 29, 2005

• #18

But (unless I am confusing the fox with the SN, which I dont think I am because they both operate the same) during cranking, the pump resumes priming. So if one has to crank for a prolonged period, it can be simply because the system is building pressure. Cycling the key several times before attempting to start the car helps diagnose this.

Good luck.