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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Spacer blocks

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1967coupe
  • Start date Start date Nov 20, 2004

1967coupe

New Member
Feb 25, 2004
109
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0
Wausau, WI
Nov 20, 2004
#1
  • Nov 20, 2004
  • #1
I just recently had my new rear put in and my mechanic is concerened with the spacer blocks that go between the leafs and the housing. Currently these blocks are about 2" (I didn't take measurements). What size if any spacer blocks did a '67 coupe come with? I'd like it to be back to stock for now and use different eye leafs to change ride height in the future.
 

one2gamble

Founding Member
Feb 27, 2001
902
1
0
Monterey
Nov 20, 2004
#2
  • Nov 20, 2004
  • #2
there wouldnt be any in there from the factory as far as I know.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Nov 20, 2004
#3
  • Nov 20, 2004
  • #3
no factory spacer blocks, but that is not a bad way to lower the rear of a mustang as long as you dont go too low. personally i think 2" is about the limit with spacer blocks.
 

1967coupe

New Member
Feb 25, 2004
109
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0
Wausau, WI
Nov 21, 2004
#4
  • Nov 21, 2004
  • #4
My mechanic is concerened that the blocks make the rear sit at a funny angle and was the cause of my driveline failure. So if I have him take these blocks out it will sit higher?
 

latamud

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
791
2
19
Tampa, FL
Nov 21, 2004
#5
  • Nov 21, 2004
  • #5
Yes, it will sit 2" higher
 

WORTH

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 18, 2002
2,166
44
98
Cape Cod, Ma.
Nov 21, 2004
#6
  • Nov 21, 2004
  • #6
1967coupe said:
My mechanic is concerened that the blocks make the rear sit at a funny angle and was the cause of my driveline failure. So if I have him take these blocks out it will sit higher?
Click to expand...

What failed? Ujoints? The only thing the spacer will do is change the angle of the front and rear joint, other than that there is no difference.
 

1967coupe

New Member
Feb 25, 2004
109
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0
Wausau, WI
Nov 21, 2004
#7
  • Nov 21, 2004
  • #7
Yes it was the u joints that failed. I really don't want my rear to sit up any higher as I think it sits too high as is compared to the front.
 

MrBobMarley

Founding Member
Oct 7, 2002
460
0
16
Ft Myers, FL
Nov 21, 2004
#8
  • Nov 21, 2004
  • #8
You do have a t5 in the car. Was the angle right on it? I've heard incorrect driveline angles cause that failure too.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Nov 21, 2004
#9
  • Nov 21, 2004
  • #9
if the u-joints failed because of the driveline angles, then they would have failed anyway. 2" lowering blocks change the driveline angles very little overall. likely the u-joints just wore out from time.
 

blue66tang

Founding Member
Jan 20, 2001
1,092
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0
Medford, OR
Nov 21, 2004
#10
  • Nov 21, 2004
  • #10
Yeah i have had 2"blocks in mine for 4 years now and not a single problem. The blocks are to lower the car not to raise it. So it raises the rear in the car, but the car sits lower. Opposite of most trucks.
 

67coupe351w

New Member
Jan 31, 2004
424
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0
Portland, OR
Nov 22, 2004
#11
  • Nov 22, 2004
  • #11
Wouldnt lowering using the diffrent eye'd springs still chage your pinion angle?

The object is to get the tranny output shaft and pinion to point right at each other. The U-joints allow the suspension to move but you want them, for optimal power transfer and longest life, to be straight on each other the bulk of the time(ride height).

If you had an empty engine block bolted to an empty transmission bolted into your car you would want to beable to run a string right down the crank centerline, through the center of the transmission and right through the centerline of the pinion in the rear end at ride height for optimal power transfer.

Angles produce higher stresses because as everything spins up it trys to all line up in a straight line putting latteral stresses on things such as your transmission housing, rear end, and u-joints.
 

WORTH

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 18, 2002
2,166
44
98
Cape Cod, Ma.
Nov 22, 2004
#12
  • Nov 22, 2004
  • #12
rbohm said:
if the u-joints failed because of the driveline angles, then they would have failed anyway. 2" lowering blocks change the driveline angles very little overall. likely the u-joints just wore out from time.
Click to expand...

That is half true, the worse thing you can do to a ujoint is to have it a straight on shot. If the joint doesn't flex enough to move the grease around, it will not lube itself properly. The cure for this is plenty of grease, grease it often and you will have less failure, and don't be afraid to take a speed bump a bit faster than normal to flex it
 

12sec67

Active Member
Oct 6, 2003
1,301
1
36
San Diego, Ca
Nov 22, 2004
#13
  • Nov 22, 2004
  • #13
i never had any problems with the lowering blocks till i started shattering them.... finally went to an off road dealer and cast steel 2" blocks.
 

blue66tang

Founding Member
Jan 20, 2001
1,092
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0
Medford, OR
Nov 22, 2004
#14
  • Nov 22, 2004
  • #14
How the heck did you shatter them. Let me guess.... slicks?
 

12sec67

Active Member
Oct 6, 2003
1,301
1
36
San Diego, Ca
Nov 22, 2004
#15
  • Nov 22, 2004
  • #15
blue66tang said:
How the heck did you shatter them. Let me guess.... slicks?
Click to expand...

nope... it was on the street. 1st time i jumped on it with the 9"

i was cruising 1st gear... got on it and hit second and bammmmmmm....the rear end yoke spun up and the driveshaft went into the floor pan and put a nice little notch in my flowmasters.


and yes i did torque them down... and yes second gear hits very nice in my AOD
 
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