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Spacers and Autocross

  • Thread starter Thread starter 68conv4sp
  • Start date Start date Apr 5, 2006
6

68conv4sp

New Member
Oct 24, 2005
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Apr 5, 2006
#1
  • Apr 5, 2006
  • #1
Will it be safe to use 1.25" spacers behind '05 wheels on my '68 during autocross events? Are there different spacer materials? What is the best source? Thanks again.
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
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69
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Apr 5, 2006
#2
  • Apr 5, 2006
  • #2
So long as you use a quality spacer made from machined aluminum instead of cheap cast aluminum, you should be fine
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
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Arizona
Apr 5, 2006
#3
  • Apr 5, 2006
  • #3
Yup, I've used 1" spacers for years on my '68 and have had no problems whatsoever. 1.25" is even better
 

CornerCarvin67

New Member
Dec 30, 2004
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#4
  • Apr 6, 2006
  • #4
I would NOT recommend that for autocrossing. But that's just my two cents. I wouldn't want the wheel to have any chance of slippage with the spacer. If they were somehow fitted to each other (male/female), that would be much better. But I've never seen a spacer like that ever. 1/4 or maybe 1/2" spacer... but not that big. Sorry... I just don't like the idea of it.
 

red65

Member
Apr 12, 2003
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17
Ann Arbor, MI
Apr 6, 2006
#5
  • Apr 6, 2006
  • #5
CornerCarvin67 said:
I would NOT recommend that for autocrossing. Sorry... I just don't like the idea of it.
Click to expand...

I agree. Wheel spacers aren't adequate for road-racing or autoX, in my opinion. Lots of guys on this board will surely disagree, since they seem to be in common use, but I've seen a spacer fail in regular street use (not pretty). I wouldn't take one on the track... Get the right wheel instead.
 
B

blackjackbender

New Member
Nov 9, 2004
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Apr 6, 2006
#6
  • Apr 6, 2006
  • #6
It should be fine as long as its the bolt on kind the spidertrax or similar. Many jeepers use them and never have problems, just check the torque on them before your race.
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
20
49
Arizona
Apr 6, 2006
#7
  • Apr 6, 2006
  • #7
CornerCarvin67 said:
I would NOT recommend that for autocrossing. But that's just my two cents. I wouldn't want the wheel to have any chance of slippage with the spacer. If they were somehow fitted to each other (male/female), that would be much better. But I've never seen a spacer like that ever. 1/4 or maybe 1/2" spacer... but not that big. Sorry... I just don't like the idea of it.
Click to expand...

I think there's some confusion here around 'spacers' and 'wheel adapters'. I agree spacers are inadequate and shouldn't be considered for anything greater than 1/4"

Wheel adapters, however, are torqued down to the rotor/hub using the original wheel studs while providing a new set of studs for the wheel to mount to.

I mistakenly said "Spacer" in my post instead of "Wheel Adapter" which probably caused the confusion.
 

CornerCarvin67

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#8
  • Apr 6, 2006
  • #8
Well then you might be answering your own question. If you feel that the adapter is a much better solution...
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
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89
Edmond, Oklahoma
Apr 6, 2006
#9
  • Apr 6, 2006
  • #9
I wouldn't use a spacer or a wheel adapter. I'd get wheels that are correct for the application, in this case, road racing.

That's just my opinion.
 

Jester67

Member
Sep 21, 2004
908
1
18
TN
Apr 6, 2006
#10
  • Apr 6, 2006
  • #10
I'm with Larry on this on get the correct wheels for this application.
 

DarkBuddha

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
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Seattle & Tampa
Apr 7, 2006
#11
  • Apr 7, 2006
  • #11
I have a set of 1" hubcentric adapters on my '70 Mach being used to accomodate a set of late model wheels. They're made of billet 6061 and have grade 8 studs and lugs. I'd feel ok auto-x'ing with 'em on the car.

And I agree that there is a lot of confusion when discussing this sort of thing. The term "spacer" is often mis-used to describe adapters. Also, there seems to be a lot of misconceptions about the use of adapters and their merit in general. Spacers and adapters both have been used for years in lots and lots of motorsports, ranging from F1 to trans am to circle track to off-roading. Properly designed and machined adapters made from proper material, and outfitted with proper hardware should be up to auto-x. As for merit, their uses range from adapting wheel bolt patterns to offering a way to tune the track width of race cars to accomodate different tracks and conditions without having to completely redesign, re-engineer, or rebuild the existing suspension, chassis, or wheels.
 
6

68conv4sp

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Oct 24, 2005
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#12
  • Apr 7, 2006
  • #12
There have beena good range of opinions on this. If one were to use adapters (6061 w/ grade 8s), would it be wise to use threadlocker on the lug nuts that hold the adapter to the original studs? Of course the wheel would be mounted as normal to the adapter studs with only a torque wrench.
 

CornerCarvin67

New Member
Dec 30, 2004
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#13
  • Apr 7, 2006
  • #13
How about checking the rules... it may specify that they are not legal to use.
 

jikelly

20+ Year Stangneter
Jul 9, 2003
872
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Lubbock Tx
Apr 7, 2006
#14
  • Apr 7, 2006
  • #14
I've got 1" wheel adapters on my stang. No problems after 1.5 years and if I'm going somewhere its while driven like a nut.
 
6

68conv4sp

New Member
Oct 24, 2005
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Apr 7, 2006
#15
  • Apr 7, 2006
  • #15
I just talked to a guy who has considerable road racing experience at Laguna Seca. He said that when they use adapters to alter wheel track width (never spacers) they are machine fit to provide a mechanical lock to prevent and lateral or spin shift. They also use a medium duty thread locker on the adapter nuts only.
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
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89
Edmond, Oklahoma
Apr 7, 2006
#16
  • Apr 7, 2006
  • #16
My feeling is, if you're going to spend $400 on a set of adapters so that you can get by on a set of $400 wheels, why not just buy $800 wheels that fit?

I don't know a lot about autocrossing, I want to try some out once my '65 coupe is back together, but it's my understanding a smaller wheel is better than a large wheel, but as small of a wheel as you can get around your brakes. I also understand that 400+ hp engines aren't needed either, so I'm doubting most need 6 piston calipers with 14" cross drilled, slotted, unobtainium rotors.

I do know for a fact that you can have a damn good race car or a damn nice street car, but you'll never have one that's both, you have to compromise one way or another, ALWAYS... You give me a car that you think is great in both and I can make it better in one or the other, guarenteed.

Us older guys usually only offer this type advice because we've been there before, trying to do something halfa$$ed. The younger bunch either listens or learns the same damn lesson all over again. My philosophy is to learn from other's mistakes and try and if you're going to make a mistake, make one that no one has ever made. Chances of doing that are slim....

I understand that Trans-Am or F1 teams do this. Are they using $400 adapters? Do they have higher budgets than we do? The USS Missouri had guns that would shoot 20 miles, why can't I do that with my .22 rifle?

I just don't see the reason to spend so much money on a proper set of adapters that you couldn't purchase the wheels for. Now maybe we're not getting all the info. I'm assuming that this is the only set of wheels for this car, if it's a set of autocross only wheels that he already has or can get super cheap, that might be a bit different. But if I've spent several years and several thousand dollars redoing a car and put something on that could fail and ruin my work (or on the drag strip, someone elses work), I'm not compromising and going that route. Again, just me, do as you wish.
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
4,818
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69
BC Canada
Apr 7, 2006
#17
  • Apr 7, 2006
  • #17
Yes.. I must also admit I was thinking adapters but typed "spacers".

I used to have a quality set of machined adapters.. only cost me $120 for a pair.

17" factory takeoffs from a newer stang along with some wheel adapters will be MUCH cheaper than a set of custom wheels with the proper backspacing. But I agree that if you are buying brand new wheels already...might as well spend a few extra $$ and get wheels with the proper backspacing.
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
23
89
Edmond, Oklahoma
Apr 7, 2006
#18
  • Apr 7, 2006
  • #18
Dang, I read what I typed.....

I'm getting crotchity as I get older....

AHHHHHRRRGGGHHH!!!! I'M GETTING OLD!!!!!!!!!
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
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109
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Apr 8, 2006
#19
  • Apr 8, 2006
  • #19
Personally, I think spacers that are 1 1/4" thick may be pushing it a bit, but are they unsafe? I don't know one way or the other. But I do know a couple things: first lots and lots of different racers from circle track to road racers use spacers as a tuning device. I've made several sets for local racers and have never even heard of a failure, but they are never more than 1/2" thick. Second, it cracks me up to hear people refer to 6061 aluminum like it's some sort of rare, super-stout metal that posesses almost mythical strength and durability. 6061 aluminum is soft, fairly easy to compress and oxidizes quickly and easily. If you are having spacers made and want extreme durability and strength, buy some 7075 aluminum. Yes it's about twice as expensive as 6061 but it will outlast the car it's on and then some. Honda makes it's frames from 7000-series aluminum and they are paper-thin but strong as a bridge.
 

DarkBuddha

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
2,215
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Seattle & Tampa
Apr 8, 2006
#20
  • Apr 8, 2006
  • #20
Just to clarify, I just stated what my spacers were made of (6061) and that I felt they'd be up to auto-x. Admittedly, there is always a better option, but like all things in life, using 6061 is a compromise. They are less expensive and they are not as hard as other billet stock, but they are economical and should be quite adequate for their intended use. Seems reasonable to me.
 
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