Spark Plugs
- Thread starter jason1320
- Start date
kirkyg
Founding Member
The way i understand it is your just unscrew the bolt holding the coil pack (there is no reason to change the coil packs at low mileage) and then it has a regular plug wire made of rubber. Just pull on the rubber part and it will pop out. We have platinum plugs from the factory which should last atleast 60-75k miles. I was wondering though for performance reasons wouldn't copper plugs be best even though you have to change them more often? Is there a proven better spark plug performance wise for our engines over the platinum plugs?
kirkyg
kirkyg
MT1083
New Member
When you change your plugs, unscrew the bolt that holds the coil down. Then just pull the whole COP out. Remove the plugs and reinstall them. Before installing the COP's back, put a dab of dielectric grease on the tips and then install them and tighten back down.
JonJon
Founding Member
http://www.bullittarchive.com/Maintenance/Spark_Plugs/
When you pull out the rubber COP, be careful, one of mine tore. I superglued it and it works fine but just don't pull at an angle, pull straight up.
Also, use compressed air to spray out all the dirt in the spark plug hole before taking out the plugs. There was SO MUCH crap in there, I was absolutely shocked.
It was really easy to do even though I've never changed spark plugs on any car.
You DO NOT need to remove the fuel rail.
Also DO NOT over torque the new spark plug, we did 1/8 of a turn after finger tight. We got it finger tight using a 1/2" hose that we stuck on the spark plug. We'd put the plug into the hole, turn until the spark plug came loose from the hose and then turned it 1/8 with a ratchet. The hose was the best suggestion someone posted EVER.
And like MT1083 said, put dielectric grease on the tips (where it connects to the COP) and also antiseize on the threads.
When you pull out the rubber COP, be careful, one of mine tore. I superglued it and it works fine but just don't pull at an angle, pull straight up.
Also, use compressed air to spray out all the dirt in the spark plug hole before taking out the plugs. There was SO MUCH crap in there, I was absolutely shocked.
It was really easy to do even though I've never changed spark plugs on any car.
You DO NOT need to remove the fuel rail. Also DO NOT over torque the new spark plug, we did 1/8 of a turn after finger tight. We got it finger tight using a 1/2" hose that we stuck on the spark plug. We'd put the plug into the hole, turn until the spark plug came loose from the hose and then turned it 1/8 with a ratchet. The hose was the best suggestion someone posted EVER.
And like MT1083 said, put dielectric grease on the tips (where it connects to the COP) and also antiseize on the threads.
From what Ive read, Sean Hyland recommends replacing the factory plugs with NGK TR6. This is a copper core plug that is one heat range cooler than the factory. Recommend gap on NA engine is .035 and on a forced induction car .030. Also, 12000 mile plug changes on a street car is recommended. For a track car they should be inspected every race.
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