Spartan Wide Band install

Hello guys, here is a little write-up on how to connect the Spartan 2 WB to the factory O2 harness using the O2 plug.
I might create a how-to on "how to MicroSquirt your car step-by-step" because I felt a little bit at a loss with all the cool info I could find everywhere on this forum and YT, don't know if the admins would approve of it though
Anyway, first things first:
- I checked the awesome diagram from tmoss posted above, even though my Fox is an 87 and the wires are a different colour
- I checked for continuity on the harness connector using a basic multi-meter to validate that pins 29, 43 and 49 are correctly connected

- I then cut the O² connector and verified continuity again to label its wires properly

- Even though I am installing a MicroSquirt, I've followed the Pimp manual for installing the Spartan and labeled the wires accordingly

- The most time-consuming part of this installation is finding a way to route the Spartan wires to the OEM harness: as it happens, I installed the Spartan under the driver side fender since I'm doing a wire-tuck (at least I'm trying)

- Next, the wires from the WB is routed through the K-member

- I ended up routing the Spartan wire through the windshield washer reservoir hole

- As I can't solder properly, I'm using these awesome Posi-lock, which will be replaced by Posi-seal for weathertight connections


Hope these pictures will help anyone who wants to connect a Spartan through an OEM connector but before connecting everything, I need to wire in the fuse that came with it and test the third wire (ignition run, I believe KOEO is sufficient to test for voltage on this wire)

Forgot to put the picture of the pink wire from MicroSquirt to O2 pin 43

Having installed aem 30-0300 widebands, as well as 30-4110s It was my first time doing one of these spartan 2s. For a pimp (v1.5) setup using another Ron Francis harness I just pulled power, ground, and signal output off the factory style o2 harness, cutting and splicing with marine style butt connectors. Worked well and the sensor seems to work as good as any I’ve used.

The way stinger specifies works good.

What are the blue and brown wires?

So green was signal red power and black and white twisted together is ground

Yes I followed the Pimp manual, only 3 wires in a stock O2 connector.
Brown wire is for narrowband simulation if you're using the stock ECU, blue is for the provided LED, when you want to check the status of your wideband (I haven't hooked it up)

I pulled one of my O2s to wire up my spartan but years ago i used a non ford O2 and it has two black and one blue wire. What factory colors should they be?

So looking at this diagram the bottom blue wire would be signal, top right would be ground and top left would be key power?

DemonGT said:

So looking at this diagram the bottom blue wire would be signal, top right would be ground and top left would be key power?

Click to expand...

I would go by this pinout and see if that does it.

So i got the Spartan wired and installed but realized afterwards that i never checked my timing on the car. Years ago i removed the pointer to remove the timing cover and never marked where it was(adjustable pointer) and do not know for sure what my timing is set to exactly. I just set it by ear.

Will the car run well enough to get a timing light on it with out a O2 hooked up? or will the Spartan give a reading to the stock ECU if plugged in? and most importantly will it harm the Spartan WB if its powered up with the stock ECU?

Tuner Studio can be used to set the base timing.
Ignition Settings--->Trigger Wizard

Independent of O2 sensor.

DemonGT said:

So i got the Spartan wired and installed but realized afterwards that i never checked my timing on the car. Years ago i removed the pointer to remove the timing cover and never marked where it was(adjustable pointer) and do not know for sure what my timing is set to exactly. I just set it by ear.

Will the car run well enough to get a timing light on it with out a O2 hooked up? or will the Spartan give a reading to the stock ECU if plugged in? and most importantly will it harm the Spartan WB if its powered up with the stock ECU?

Click to expand...

You’ll need to make up a piston stop to set true tdc with the adjustable pointer. A spark plug non-fouler tapped for a 5/16 bolt works great for when the engine is all together. I’ve Used them with great success.

The spartan gives a different signal than the stock widebands. I would actually just unplug it if you’re trying to get the car running, since it will more than likely show it as out of range anyways.

I’m wondering though, why don’t you just finish up the ms install and get the car running then? Why even mess with the stock eec if it’s going away? You’ll need to sync the distributor with the controller anyways.

If removing the stock computer and just running the MS and adjusting the timing in tunerstudio is an option then I will just go that route but I was under the impression I needed to know what the actual timing was set too and needed to input that into tunerstudio before going forward?

I believe in my pimp instructions it says something about setting the timing to 10 degrees before first start up?

That process makes it easier to get things synced since you know it was good before you began, trust me doing a new install on a fresh never run before engine can be frustrating if your not knowledgeable about the software.