Spindles and calipers

[bishop1911]

I need a little help with spindle and caliper info. I am going to be finding some casting numbers (hopefully) on my spindles for my 67 fastback this weekend. I need to find this out so I can purchase new rotors and calipers. I have already bought some parts, which may need to be returned if I don't have either 67 or 68 spindles. I don't think they are 67 because the calipers that were hanging off the car were single piston, which I am told do not fit on 67 spindles. Anyway, if anyone can help, I am looking for a site or somewhere to find out spindle casting codes so I can tell what spindles I have. I have searched the internet but have not found anything useful. Also, does it make a difference with using lower control arms with 68 spindles? Thanks for the help guys.

Jon

 

[degins]

I need a little help with spindle and caliper info. I am going to be finding some casting numbers (hopefully) on my spindles for my 67 fastback this weekend. I need to find this out so I can purchase new rotors and calipers. I have already bought some parts, which may need to be returned if I don't have either 67 or 68 spindles. I don't think they are 67 because the calipers that were hanging off the car were single piston, which I am told do not fit on 67 spindles. Anyway, if anyone can help, I am looking for a site or somewhere to find out spindle casting codes so I can tell what spindles I have. I have searched the internet but have not found anything useful. Also, does it make a difference with using lower control arms with 68 spindles? Thanks for the help guys.

Jon

Describe the caliper. If it is a floating type that is held on by a key, then the caliper and spindle is Granada. If the caliper is a sliding type that is held on by two bolts, then it is the 68-73 Mustang type. The year model of either control arm doesn't matter. They all (65-73) have the same ball joint configuration.

 

[Rusty67]

The year model of either control arm doesn't matter. They all (65-73) have the same ball joint configuration.

Hold on a second. 1967 lower control arm is a 1 year part. I don't know what makes it different but I know that 64-66 are different somehow and so are 68-73. The ball joint may be the same but I don't know if they interchange properly.

 

[bishop1911]

Spindles

To be honest, I don't know if it is floating or not. When I got the car, the calipers were hanging from the coil springs by bungee cords. I do have a couple pictures of the back side of the front wheel. I don't know if those will help, but it is all I can get for now. Where on these spindles can I find casting numbers to help me identify them? Do they have to be removed to get the numbers? Also, I have already bought all steering rods (inner and outer tie rods and centerlink) and the 67 lower control arms. So I want to figure out pretty soon if this stuff will fit or else I want to bring it back. I guess the question is, if these spindles are 68 mustang, will the 67 lower control arms that I purchased bolt to these? Thanks guys.

http://www.eleanorclub.com/photo/showphoto.php/photo/2068

http://www.eleanorclub.com/photo/showphoto.php/photo/2067/cat/2/page/

Jon

 

[LMan]

Looks like 68-73 calipers.....from the two rubber gaskets there through which the pins slide. That's a straight SWAG, though.

Didn't realise you had the desirable, rare, "UberRust" option

 

[mdjay]

The lowers are interchangable but you would need to swap the strut rods to the respective year as well.

 

[bishop1911]

Spindles

Jay,

When you say they are interchangable, does that mean I can use the 67 lowers I have if that is a 68 spindle? Or I would have to change over to the 68 lower? As far as strut rods, there are rods on there that are already connected, so I was just going to clean those up and use them. Does anyone know where I can find the casting numbers on the spindles?

LMAN - I was laughing out loud at that uber rust comment. That was funny as hell.

Thanks guys.

Jon

 

[degins]

All right, let's clarify things. Your spindles are either 68-69 or 70-73 type. The main difference being the size of the spindle pin that the bearings fit on. They are other wise identical except for the tie rod (not strut rod) mounting hole size. Note that he 70-73 type use an A13 and A12 bearing set. Use an outer tie rod from the same model years as the spindle (that is 68-69 or 70-73).

Now, all 65-66 Mustang spindles will bolt onto all 65-73 Mustang control arms and have correct ball joint/control arm geometry if the control arms are proper for the car year model. In other words, use 67 control arms on a 67 car (68's may be the same part number though, I'm not sure). The year of the spindle is not relavent to the selection of control arms.

 

[Jester67]

The only differance between 67 and 68 LCA is the atachment points for the strut rod the lenght and ball joint are the same. the 67 is a longer LCA than the 65/66 but uses the stright strut rod the 68 is the same length as the 67 but it uses the bent strut rod that is uses from 68 on.

 

[bishop1911]

Spindles

Thanks for the replies, but some of it seems conflicting. Basically, if I have 68 or 69 spindles, does that mean I am going to have to return the 67 lower control arms I have bought and buy 68 lowers? I am going to reuse the strut rods that are there, and just replace the bushings. I am going to see the car tomorrow and I will take some more in depth pictures and get any numbers and code I can and post them. Thanks for the help guys.

Jon

 

[Jester67]

Ball joint 65-69 i dont know about 70 are the same pin size. HOpe that helps

 

[mdjay]

Thanks for the replies, but some of it seems conflicting. Basically, if I have 68 or 69 spindles, does that mean I am going to have to return the 67 lower control arms I have bought and buy 68 lowers? I am going to reuse the strut rods that are there, and just replace the bushings. I am going to see the car tomorrow and I will take some more in depth pictures and get any numbers and code I can and post them. Thanks for the help guys.

Jon

The spindles will hook up to the upper and lower ball joints. Yes I overlooked that tie rod hole is bigger. The strut rod is the only other part that does not interchange because of the way that it hooks up to the lower. The length of the arm itself is the same and the ball joint holes are the same.

 

[mdjay]

Where the lower hooks to the SR, there is either 4 holes, or 2 holes.

1967

1968-70

So I would check the lowers that were on the car to make sure you have the correct lowers for the strut rods you are using. If not, just get the matching SR for the lowers, and the 68-70 outer tie rods and you're done.

That is after a good sandblast for those spindles

 

[bishop1911]

Lower Control Arms

Jay,

Thank you for clarifying for me. I checked my new lowers I just got, and I have the 4 bolt ones. When I checked the pictures I got, although I cannot actually see the bolt holes, it seems very apparent to me that I have the one with 2 bolt holes. Check the pictuer below and tell me what you think. I will verify tomorrow when I see it and then if need be I will return these and get the 68's.

http://www.eleanorclub.com/photo/showphoto.php/photo/2070/cat/2/page/1

Jon

 

[bnickel]

Jay,

Thank you for clarifying for me. I checked my new lowers I just got, and I have the 4 bolt ones. When I checked the pictures I got, although I cannot actually see the bolt holes, it seems very apparent to me that I have the one with 2 bolt holes. Check the pictuer below and tell me what you think. I will verify tomorrow when I see it and then if need be I will return these and get the 68's.

http://www.eleanorclub.com/photo/showphoto.php/photo/2070/cat/2/page/1

Jon

you need the LCA for a 67 car, the strut rods on the 67 are completely straight, which is what you have, 68 and up have a curve in the strut rod where it mounts to the LCA. once again you have the 67 only strut rods on your car just to be clear.

as for the brakes, you have 68-73 type discs on your car which someone swapped on at some point in the cars past. they all use the same calipers and brake pads so that won't be a problem. also attaching them to your 67 only LCA's won't be a problem either and 68-73 spindle will work on any 68-73 LCA as the ball joint taper is the same for all of them. the only problems you might run into would be if you have 70 or newer spindles then the outer tire rod ends will be different but the inner tie rod ends and the center link you have will work just fine, also the wheels bearing are bigger and beefier on the 70-newer spindles so you would need different wheel bearing as well.

as for the casting numbers i can't remember exactly where on the spindle they will be, but i can you an idea of the numbers to look for in the lit below.

1: 68 will have a casting number that will start with a C8O number
2: 69 will have a casting number that will start with a C9O number
3: 70 will have a casting number that will start with a D0O number
4: 71 will have a casting number that will start with a D1O number
5: 72 will have a casting number that will start with a D2O number
6: 73 will have a casting number that will start with a D3O number

if you have any more questions feel free to PM or email me.

 

[bishop1911]

Spindles and stuff

Thanks for that helpful info. Here is the info I got yesterday when I was going over the car. There are 2 sets of numbers on each spindle, the first was on top and the second below. Remember I did the best I could but these numbers are faded. Driver side top - 80A, Driver side bottom - 108C, Passenger side top - 080A or C80A (cannot tell which), Passenger side bottom - 107.

Also, the rear calipers are single pistong and I got the code of "5339" off of one and then other was faded away. Here are a couple pictures of the caliper.
http://www.eleanorclub.com/photo/showphoto.php/photo/2071/cat/2/page/1
http://www.eleanorclub.com/photo/showphoto.php/photo/2072/cat/2/page/1


We measure the front discs (11.5) and the rear (10.5) and got a code from one axle flange - WM AJ D-LH. I am also trying to find out what I have on the rear so I can purchase the right thing there, but I was not able to remove the caliper and get more in depth in the back.

When I checked the front suspension, was surprised to see the 4 bolt hole lower control arms. So apparently I have the proper arms in my posession. The strut rod does bend up at the end as shown in the link below, but if it worked there, I am not going to change it. http://www.eleanorclub.com/photo/showphoto.php/photo/2073/cat/2/page/1

Also, I thought it was strange that it has 4 bolt holes and only 2 are used and they are diagonal. Anyone knoe why that is?

When we did some crude measurements of the axle, which appears to possibly have been cut and welded at some point, it came out to approx. 58". Does that sound right and is it possible that the axle could be the wrong length or would the flanges sort of "make sure" it was the proper length. This is an area of concern as we purchase a larger 17x8 wheel.

The wheel well appears to be a little over 6", and there appears to be plenty of room, but I have concerns with some who have said they have had rubbing issues with the edelbrock 454's. If you guys have any info, that would be great. Thanks for the help

Jon

 

[dennis112]

When I checked the front suspension, was surprised to see the 4 bolt hole lower control arms. So apparently I have the proper arms in my posession. The strut rod does bend up at the end as shown in the link below, but if it worked there, I am not going to change it. http://www.eleanorclub.com/photo/showphoto.php/photo/2073/cat/2/page/1

Also, I thought it was strange that it has 4 bolt holes and only 2 are used and they are diagonal. Anyone knoe why that is?
Jon

The control arms are drilled with 4 holes so that only one part # is needed for both the RH and LH side of the car. This makes them interchangeable and not specific to either side. One pair of diagonals is used for the RH, and the other pair for the LH.

 

[bnickel]

Thanks for that helpful info. Here is the info I got yesterday when I was going over the car. There are 2 sets of numbers on each spindle, the first was on top and the second below. Remember I did the best I could but these numbers are faded. Driver side top - 80A, Driver side bottom - 108C, Passenger side top - 080A or C80A (cannot tell which), Passenger side bottom - 107.

Also, the rear calipers are single pistong and I got the code of "5339" off of one and then other was faded away. Here are a couple pictures of the caliper.
http://www.eleanorclub.com/photo/showphoto.php/photo/2071/cat/2/page/1
http://www.eleanorclub.com/photo/showphoto.php/photo/2072/cat/2/page/1


We measure the front discs (11.5) and the rear (10.5) and got a code from one axle flange - WM AJ D-LH. I am also trying to find out what I have on the rear so I can purchase the right thing there, but I was not able to remove the caliper and get more in depth in the back.

When I checked the front suspension, was surprised to see the 4 bolt hole lower control arms. So apparently I have the proper arms in my posession. The strut rod does bend up at the end as shown in the link below, but if it worked there, I am not going to change it. http://www.eleanorclub.com/photo/showphoto.php/photo/2073/cat/2/page/1

Also, I thought it was strange that it has 4 bolt holes and only 2 are used and they are diagonal. Anyone knoe why that is?

When we did some crude measurements of the axle, which appears to possibly have been cut and welded at some point, it came out to approx. 58". Does that sound right and is it possible that the axle could be the wrong length or would the flanges sort of "make sure" it was the proper length. This is an area of concern as we purchase a larger 17x8 wheel.

The wheel well appears to be a little over 6", and there appears to be plenty of room, but I have concerns with some who have said they have had rubbing issues with the edelbrock 454's. If you guys have any info, that would be great. Thanks for the help

Jon

well judging by the C8OA number you gave you have a 68 front disc setup. your rear discs on the other hand are cobbled together from what appear to be granada FRONT disc calipers, i say that because they look like and mount like a granada caliper and DO NOT have a parking brakes mechanism, unless there is a single disc on the driveshaft which i did not see either.

i would consider ditching the rear brakes, but wait until you see how they perform, unless a parking brake is important for you to have. the front brakes should be good to go with with some cleanup and rebuid work done to them.

 

[bishop1911]

spindles

Thanks for the input. My intension is to ditch the brakes all the way around and just buy new single piston calipers and rotors for all. I will chuck the rotors, which I believe are complete junk, and can use the calipers as cores. If I ditch the rear calipers, I can get whatever is best for the rears. From what you saw, will other calipers bolt right up? Can I buy other rotors and just stick them on or are they specific to the flange? Will the calipers fit as well or do they need to be specific to the flange? Thanks again.

Jon

 

[bnickel]

well, i have no idea what they used for rotors in the rear. personally i would suggest getting a complete conversion kit for the rear that has a parking brake.