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Spray Painting Front Bumper

  • Thread starter Thread starter savegoodautonfg
  • Start date Start date May 26, 2006
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aod92

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Jun 4, 2005
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#21
  • Jun 7, 2006
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Spray paint is definetly the wrong way to go. It will not last . Save a couple of hundred bucks and let a real body/paint shop do it.
 

StreetDreamsGT

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#22
  • Jun 8, 2006
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Ironicly enough I was thinking of painting my car in spraypaint just to get all the panels a matching color until I can afford a real paint job. grn92conv, all I have to say is damn, I hope mine will turn out as good as that, so what was the final cost for your paint job?
 

rd

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Jun 8, 2006
#23
  • Jun 8, 2006
  • #23
I got a deal because I asked how much to paint a racecar. That shop does some circle track cars, so spending money on paint is not big with them. I originally told them I would prep it, ie, sand, etc.

I could not do that, so I paid $600 for painting, plus I bought about $300 in paint supplies. So about $900.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
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Jun 8, 2006
#24
  • Jun 8, 2006
  • #24
I rattle canned around the fog lights in 1998 and you still cant tell today that its ever been done, I used Flexible Primer and Flexible Paint
 
G

grn92conv

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May 15, 2006
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Jun 10, 2006
#25
  • Jun 10, 2006
  • #25
StreetDreamsGT said:
Ironicly enough I was thinking of painting my car in spraypaint just to get all the panels a matching color until I can afford a real paint job. grn92conv, all I have to say is damn, I hope mine will turn out as good as that, so what was the final cost for your paint job?
Click to expand...
Hey, StreetDreamsGT.
The final cost in actual paint was about $25 to $40 (it was several years ago, I don't remember exactly how much I used)
Something I think I should tell, I preped the car for real paint, using quality automotive feeler, etch and 2k primer, then blocked. The idea for spray bombing it was only to protect all of my prep work for winter <- It was getting too cold and I wanted the outside temp warm to make sure the finish would cure right. At first, the spray paint was only to be thin coat, that I would sand off the following summer, then seal it and spray with 'real' base coat/clear coat. After starting it, the spray bomb paint was laying decent and I thought, what da heck and laid it on thick.
I then I color sanded, like you would 'real automotive' finish.

I'm guessing the guys above, that are saying the paint won't last, have never painted on a properly preped surface, then cleared with spray bomb. The paint will absolutley last, BUT true, it's no comparison to 'real paint'. After about a year, it will come close, but never reach the hardness real paint will. Also, the spray clear will yellow slightly after a few years or the clear I used did, but then again, I used $1 wal-mart spray enamel. Maybe a better quality spray paint would have done better?

I don't recommend doing it, mainly because when you finally go to shoot it with real paint, you would have to strip the enamel off -> the spray enamel won't have a good foundation and it isn't compatible with real paint.

Below is what the car looks like now. I'm in the process of striping all of the paint to bare metal to giving it a good foundation.
 

StreetDreamsGT

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Jun 11, 2006
#26
  • Jun 11, 2006
  • #26
grn92conv said:
Hey, StreetDreamsGT.
The final cost in actual paint was about $25 to $40 (it was several years ago, I don't remember exactly how much I used)
Something I think I should tell, I preped the car for real paint, using quality automotive feeler, etch and 2k primer, then blocked. The idea for spray bombing it was only to protect all of my prep work for winter <- It was getting too cold and I wanted the outside temp warm to make sure the finish would cure right. At first, the spray paint was only to be thin coat, that I would sand off the following summer, then seal it and spray with 'real' base coat/clear coat. After starting it, the spray bomb paint was laying decent and I thought, what da heck and laid it on thick.
I then I color sanded, like you would 'real automotive' finish.

I'm guessing the guys above, that are saying the paint won't last, have never painted on a properly preped surface, then cleared with spray bomb. The paint will absolutley last, BUT true, it's no comparison to 'real paint'. After about a year, it will come close, but never reach the hardness real paint will. Also, the spray clear will yellow slightly after a few years or the clear I used did, but then again, I used $1 wal-mart spray enamel. Maybe a better quality spray paint would have done better?

I don't recommend doing it, mainly because when you finally go to shoot it with real paint, you would have to strip the enamel off -> the spray enamel won't have a good foundation and it isn't compatible with real paint.

Below is what the car looks like now. I'm in the process of striping all of the paint to bare metal to giving it a good foundation.
Click to expand...

I've got a project car i'm working on right now that I want to get on the road, and I figured why not just paint it with spray paint until I can get the time to do it right. Honestly the main reason for doing it will be to just get the car in one color, and to be able to take care of a couple rust spots on the car right now (after the sanding and all of course). You didn't use a spray can primer? I think that I might, but we'll see.
 
G

grn92conv

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May 15, 2006
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Jun 11, 2006
#27
  • Jun 11, 2006
  • #27
StreetDreamsGT said:
You didn't use a spray can primer?
Click to expand...
No, I didn't. I used Dupont/Nason 2K primer. Like I said, this car was preped for real automotive paint.
I've used spray bomb etch and sandable primer on small places under real paint, so since you're gonna' bomb the whole car anyway, I don't see why you couldn't use spray can primer.

Make sure the surface your painting has something to bite to. I would use 250 under the primer and 400 under the paint. Also, follow the instructions on the can for adding coats. If you let it cure for too long, it will lift when you try to add coats. Put the clear thick, because a spray can can't break up the paint right, so it will take a good bit of wet sanding/polishing to make it good.

Again, not recommending it, but you can get fairly good results and it will last, if done right.
 
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