Spring build, Input?

[Wind-Farmer]

Hey guys, I am putting the car away for the winter and plan on building my motor come spring.

I have the KB Mammoth 2.8 sitting in my basement. I purchased that due to the fact I figured I would be building the motor.

I am very uneducated about motors, especially the 3v. I have been doing my own little research, but I don't exactly know the best route to go.

I have been looking at ordering the Aluminator block, as for they are selling them a dime a dozen.

I have been looking at heads, livernois especially. Would those heads match up with the Aluminator/what heads will? I have been reading that I want a lower compression, which the supercharged version of the aluminator I am looking at offers. Would heads cause compression to go up if I go with higher flow or vise versa? Like I said, I am very uneducated on motors.

Short block, heads, supercharged? is that considered a built motor? Do i need a stronger timing chain? etc? What does "built" all include?

I looked at purchasing a built motor, because I am just so stupid with this kind of stuff. - you guys said it would be cheaper this way.

Any input on this subject would be great.

Thanks.

 

[SpartaPerformance]

What kind of boost do you plan to run? Unless you're building a track car I don't see a reason to buy the low compression block. In the last issue of MM&FF they did a comparison of low vs stock compression and of course the stock compression made more power with no ill effects. Look at the 2011 for example. How much power do you plan to make? I don't think heads are really needed. Fill us in on your goals for more accurate input from us.

 

[Wind-Farmer]

The KB Mammoth is setup for built motors unless running low PSI, well lower in the mammoths situation...which this kit is for 12-25. I guess I would like to run 10+ psi and have the ability to beat on the car and not have to worry as much. Raising the PSI as needed.

The Aluminator has two setups, N/A and Supercharged applications, which the SC app. has a lower comp ratio than the NA version. - Once again, just me reading up on things.

I never have been to a track, don't exactly plan it. I would although if the opportunity arose. I just want the car to be strong.

Heads wouldn't be needed I guess, as for the Mammoth would make enough power; good for 800 or so. Would the Aluminator be enough to withstand that power and a fair amount of abuse? Would stock cams handle that abuse?

I will only have my engine torn out once, so I want to do what I can while it is out. The thought of having people leaning on my fenders etc. makes me sick to my stomach. I will probably remove fenders and bumper before trailering it to whom ever I choose to do it.

My car has 9,200 miles on it now, if that means anything.


Thanks!

 

[klaw]

My recommendations for what it's worth:

Buy a built shortblock - Livernois for example with 9.1:1 compression.
Use all ARP hardware. Get their crank scraper and a second pan gasket.
Use your stock heads and cams.

Pulley the KB for 16 psi boost.

The aftermarket cranks only come in an 8-bolt flywheel version so you'll need a new flywheel - make sure you get one compatible with your choice of clutch as there are two different inner circle diameters on the flywheel friction surface for these cars. Your stock clutch isn't going to last long so put a twin disk in while you're there. The McLeod RXT should work fine - use a new OEM slave cylinder and swap in a stainless steel braided clutch line.

Give some thought as to whether you want to upgrade the trans. With a supercharger, to swap transmissions or do clutch/slave work down the road you'll have to take the supercharger off the engine to lean it back far enough to drop the trans. The 3650 might not hold up long depending on your final power numbers and driving style. I went straight to the TR6060 when I did my build. If you go 6060 you should probably do a GT500 1-piece driveshaft at the same time. You also need a new shifter and shift handle.

It's easier to install headers with the engine out.

The stock throttle body will be a choke point at this horsepower level.

Does your KB Mammoth include dual fuel pumps? I'd recommend going to a return style system with dual pumps - Lethal Performance has a kit out for that. I think it includes aftermarket fuel rails which are also a good idea at this power level.

You'll need a dyno tune with a good tuner.

 

[Wind-Farmer]

The mammoth did not come with their "Boost-a-pump" which I priced one of them out, $200. But no, no fuel system yet. It came with dual 76mm throttle body.

Why new shifter and handle? For that tranny does not come with one? Is that a GT500 transmission?

Thanks for the info, definitely more to this that one would expect.

 

[klaw]

The mammoth did not come with their "Boost-a-pump" which I priced one of them out, $200. But no, no fuel system yet. It came with dual 76mm throttle body.

Dual fuel pump upgrade from FRPP (minimum) - or go straight to a return style system from LP (preferred).

Why new shifter and handle? For that tranny does not come with one? Is that a GT500 transmission?

I bought my six speed conversion kit from Steeda (TR6060, GT500 crossmember, 1-piece aluminum driveshaft, FRPP shifter). The TR6060 is the GT500 trans. The shifter did not include a handle and ball (at least mine didn't). The GT500 shifters have the handle mounting bolts inline with the axis of the car rather than accross the axis of the car.

Thanks for the info, definitely more to this that one would expect.

Check out my garage (link below) for more details on this type of build.

 

[Wind-Farmer]

Is the GT500 a six speed? If i was to purchase this transmission, if I am looking for lets say a "Short shifter" I would have to order one from the GT500 section of the website?

That is kind of what im worried about if I do an engine rebuild, if I am looking for parts, do I still look at the 05+ 4.6 section? Or do they have to be custom?

I am really new at all of this.


Thanks

 

[klaw]

The GT500 transmission is a 6-speed. You'll need a GT500 shifter, handle, ball (if you want the 6-speed pattern), crossmember, and driveshaft. For the engine, you'll still be aluminum block, 4.6l, 3V heads whereas the GT500 is a cast iron block, 5.4l, 4V heads. It's not that difficult, you just have to keep track of what parts are GT500 and what parts are still GT.