Spring removal?

Any tips on doing this (on a 65)? If I put the compressor in and crank it down the rod bottoms out on the perch and binds it. If I put it in with the nut side down I can't get at the nut.

Is there an easy way to do this? I'm thinking of putting a double nut on the top but I'm not sure how well that will work?
 
Prob'ly using the wrong type compressor. This is the Ford factory tool:

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Wow that's quite the fancy compressor. You're right I'm certainly not using that one, I have the internal finger type which oddly enough is advertised here and there as being the one for early Stangs, go figure.

Do they still sell those ones? I'm sure I can get this done with the external type but I do love cool tools and that certainly qualifies.
 
Wow that's quite the fancy compressor. You're right I'm certainly not using that one, I have the internal finger type which oddly enough is advertised here and there as being the one for early Stangs, go figure.

Do they still sell those ones? I'm sure I can get this done with the external type but I do love cool tools and that certainly qualifies.

No, the genuine Ford tool is made of unobtainium. There is a similar tool, though, widely available, and can even be found at some tool rental stores.

otc-7045b.jpg
 
No, the genuine Ford tool is made of unobtainium. There is a similar tool, though, widely available, and can even be found at some tool rental stores.

otc-7045b.jpg

Yeah I kind of figured it was obsolete or worthy of a King's ransom if it wasn't. I've never seen the poor man's version either. I did remove the spring today with the external compressor, a little awkward but it worked.

I assume our Japanese friend is referring to your car looking for a completed pic GT
 
You can use the internal compressors but you need to add a ton of washers to compensate for the short travel of the spring. The washers will go between the top of the top hooks and the end of the "bolt". Just a couple of notes.....DO NOT use an impact wrench and make sure you stay CLEAR of the spring. No matter what tool you use if it loosens up just a little it will pop and cause some damage. You also need to be sure you jack up the front of the car so you have less to compress.
 
The motor is out so there isn't much compression on the spring but I still had to compress it a ton to get it out. I used the external but it's not great as you can't get it in the position you really want.

I wouldn't mind getting the one GT posted in his 2nd pic, anybody know who sells that type. My jobber up here in the great white north certainly doesn't.
 
I use the compressors for coil overs. They go in the outside of the spring and are way easier to use. Give those a try maybe. You can rent them for free usually at part stores.



Sorry to Disagree; But after having prior experience with those and other types, I would never recommend this style be used on our design of suspension. IMHO they're far too dangerous, and using an internal seems to work best.

Just my .02 sense
 
The external compressors are dangerous, I use

the internal one from NPD, but I use a 3/4 drive socket as a spacer to keep the rod from bottoming out. NO problems and I've done it many times. The external ones are like a time bomb waiting to go off. That ford factory tool looks great, but notice there is no uppper control arm installed. The one you have would be just as easy without the control arm or spring perch in the way
 
the internal one from NPD, but I use a 3/4 drive socket as a spacer to keep the rod from bottoming out. NO problems and I've done it many times. The external ones are like a time bomb waiting to go off. That ford factory tool looks great, but notice there is no uppper control arm installed. The one you have would be just as easy without the control arm or spring perch in the way

Ok now I'm more confused than ever, the internal finger type is quite the nightmare to get set in the first place and removing it is no picnic either, and that's without it even working at all because of bottoming out on the spring perch. How is a 3/4" drive socket going to change that, doesn't it just get crushed into the spring mount the same way?

Surely there must be a safe way to remove a spring. I have no idea how the Ford tool or the knock off works but I'm willing to try it if I can find a supplier that sells it. The external type did work and I'm still alive but I'd like to keep it that way :nice:
 
the internal one from NPD, but I use a 3/4 drive socket as a spacer to keep the rod from bottoming out. NO problems and I've done it many times. The external ones are like a time bomb waiting to go off. That ford factory tool looks great, but notice there is no upper control arm installed. The one you have would be just as easy without the control arm or spring perch in the way

He was compressing the spring for the purpose of installing the upper arm. The man in the photo is Fred Glazier, and I can assure you he has installed thousands of springs exclusively with that tool over the last 35 years. For those who do not know Fred, he is the original owner of an April 64 Mustang coupe, which he finally restored in 2003, and as he is one of the original MCA 'Gold Card' judges, he was able to restore the car sufficiently to win national MCA and AACA trophies. The car is now retired from active competition, since he could not do better than equal the trophies he already has. Recently, the 64 was part of a Mustang exhibit at the Hershey Museum.

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The subject was "Spring Removal". If the control arm wasn't installed, the spring would already be out and he wouldn't be bottoming out on the spring perch, until he tried to install the arm. I don't know who Mr. Glazier is, and I was not implying that he didn't know what he was doing. Just that it's a lot easier with the whole front end disassembled.
I am the original owner of a 68 cj mustang and have raced it from day one and still do. I worked as a ford technician From 1961 to 1984.

The 3/4 drive socket was only used as a spacer, but a section of pipe or anything else will work
 

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The subject was "Spring Removal". If the control arm wasn't installed, the spring would already be out and he wouldn't be bottoming out on the spring perch, until he tried to install the arm.

The process of removing, rather than installing, springs is the same. Whether there is an arm installed or not is unimportant. What is important is avoiding the use of crappy, dangerous spring compressors.

The hook-type compressor is a pain to use, and in my opinion, unsafe. This one is easy, and safe:

otc-7045b.jpg