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Squeak, Squeak, Squeak, Squeak....

  • Thread starter Thread starter 66 Tiger
  • Start date Start date Nov 16, 2004

66 Tiger

New Member
Jul 13, 2003
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Virginia
Nov 16, 2004
#1
  • Nov 16, 2004
  • #1
I know this is an extremely vague question, so let me apologize up-front. I have this squeak that seems to be coming from the right rear of the car. As the speed of the car increases, the frequency of the squeak occurring also speeds up. ( obviously coming from something that rotates ) I realize that it could be a hundred different things but does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this. Thanks....
 
8

87'GTstang

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Feb 16, 2004
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Nov 16, 2004
#2
  • Nov 16, 2004
  • #2
Not a hundred different things - just an axle/wheel bearing
 

NosPony

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Apr 2, 2004
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Canton, Il
Nov 16, 2004
#3
  • Nov 16, 2004
  • #3
Do u have polyurethane bushings in the rear. Maybe, it is them squeaking. Try greasing them if u can. If u tighten them down with load on the suspension it wont be as bad, the squeak i mean. My b/f is a suspension mechanic at a dodge dealer he says load on the suspension helps the squeek problem.
 
8

87'GTstang

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Feb 16, 2004
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Nov 16, 2004
#4
  • Nov 16, 2004
  • #4
NosPony said:
Do u have polyurethane bushings in the rear. Maybe, it is them squeaking. Try greasing them if u can. If u tighten them down with load on the suspension it wont be as bad, the squeak i mean. My b/f is a suspension mechanic at a dodge dealer he says load on the suspension helps the squeek problem.
Click to expand...
True also. But if indeed it is related to speed, like 90qtrhorse says, then it must be something in full sync with the rotation of what moves during the occuring of an event. In this case, the faster you travel, the faster the rear wheels are going to spin. The only things that cause a squeek noise is a worn-out bearing. So there are the carrier bearings and the wheel bearings back there. However, I would blame the wheel bearing because it is what usually goes out.

Just FYI, I replaced an axle bearing on an 89 f150 that had a sound that sped up with speed. Almost like a bird chirp, excpet very grating. This was an extreme case whereas the entire bearing was destroyed: rollers missing, race badly torn up, and the cage was beyond discard. so basically because there was the lack of a bearing, the axle decided to substitute and was destroyed at this point as well. This basically is what happens if you let it go completely. Nonetheless, the wheel bearings are what usually go almost everytime first without fail.

Now on a side note, if it were something like polyurethane bushings, they would squeek whenever the suspension occured jounce and rebound.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Nov 16, 2004
#5
  • Nov 16, 2004
  • #5
generally a wheel bearing will go south very quickly. the wheel can start to hop with every few revolutions - not cool.

bad U-joint? the can rust from the inside out and the corrosion inside allows it to squeak as it articulates, but the outside of it looks fine.

not the TOB right (pushing the clutch in slightly does not help the problem?).

good luck.
 

66 Tiger

New Member
Jul 13, 2003
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Virginia
Nov 16, 2004
#6
  • Nov 16, 2004
  • #6
Yeah I was kind of thinking wheel bearings or u-joints. I had the rear gears changed out last year & the shop told me they replaced the wheel bearings. Is this something that can be re-greased or do I need to replace the bearings all togeather?
SIDE NOTE* How do you check the u-joints?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Nov 16, 2004
#7
  • Nov 16, 2004
  • #7
90Qtrhorse said:
Yeah I was kind of thinking wheel bearings or u-joints. I had the rear gears changed out last year & the shop told me they replaced the wheel bearings. Is this something that can be re-greased or do I need to replace the bearings all togeather?
SIDE NOTE* How do you check the u-joints?
Click to expand...
to check u joints for slop: grab each side of the joint and twist and pull against eachother (like trying to give the joint a rugburn [remember when you were in 1st grade?]). i have had this test pass fine but the joints were rusted inside (inside the u joint caps are a ton of needle bearings).

some joints have a grease fitting on them (zerk fitting). a lot dont. you can rotate the shaft to see if yours does, but greasing might not work - might be too late.

doing joints is pretty easy. be sure to mark EVERY relative position before you split something (so each shaft half and the shaft itself can be indexed to its original position before you started).

good luck.
 

4dStang

Banned
Oct 23, 2002
718
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0
Near St Louis, Missouri
Nov 16, 2004
#8
  • Nov 16, 2004
  • #8
OK,

From experience! If you have drum brakes, make sure the shoe is not rubbing by backing them out or turning the drums. If you have rear disks (SN95+) One may be warped, just buy a new one. I WOULD check that first by jacking up the car so only one wheel can spin, have someone drive while you listen, and havve him touch the brakes or let them run free. I really doubt that it is a bad bearing.


MY OPINION!!!!!!!!!!! FROM EXPERIENCE.


CB
 
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