stage 2 cams
- Thread starter mustangjoe02
- Start date
Night Shifter
Well-Known Member
Hitech stage 2's, comp 270's, and cms stage 2's are all great cams..
Hitechs dont require new valve springs and wont have any PTV issues. They are also one of the most powerful street cams out there and usually cars see 290-300+ horsepower.. however they have a very light lope and depending on your exhaust set up, you can barely tell they're there..
Comps are great as well and you should see about the 290hp mark with those.. they will require new springs and i think (correct me if im wrong guys) you don't need to notch the pistons.. these have an amazing lope at idle and are very noticeable..
CMS is pretty much the same thing as the comps. requires springs and im unsure about notching for ptv clearance..
either of those cams will be a great upgrade for a street car..make sure with any cam you go with, that you properly degree them whether they are "drop in" cams or not.
Hitechs dont require new valve springs and wont have any PTV issues. They are also one of the most powerful street cams out there and usually cars see 290-300+ horsepower.. however they have a very light lope and depending on your exhaust set up, you can barely tell they're there..
Comps are great as well and you should see about the 290hp mark with those.. they will require new springs and i think (correct me if im wrong guys) you don't need to notch the pistons.. these have an amazing lope at idle and are very noticeable..
CMS is pretty much the same thing as the comps. requires springs and im unsure about notching for ptv clearance..
either of those cams will be a great upgrade for a street car..make sure with any cam you go with, that you properly degree them whether they are "drop in" cams or not.
It's about 50/50 with people concerning PTV issues and Hitechs. Half say they have no issues while the other half say they do
Night Shifter
Well-Known Member
The cams with the highest power numbers will tend to cut it closest on PTV clearance. The reason is simple...leave the valve open longer, you can flow more air. It just happens that leaving the valves open longer tends to put them in close proximity to the piston. 
Degree the cams in properly and turn the engine over by hand, and you shouldn't have any issues.
Degree the cams in properly and turn the engine over by hand, and you shouldn't have any issues.
vertigasen
Active Member
Just contact Modular Head Shop. He will point you in the right direction and get you that cam that best fits your situation.
sneaky98gt
10 Year Member
Yup. For a mostly stock 2-vave PI motor, I'd go with the stage 2 PI cams, found here: http://modularheadshop.com/Cams.htm.
And don't skimp on degreeing them in. Either get the tools to do it yourself, or pay an extra $150 and let Nick @ MHS do it for you. My cams from MHS were 6 degrees off. :o Granted it was 6 degrees retarded, and thus wouldn't hurt anything, I would have lost a lot of potential power. And if you were to get a set that were 6 degrees advanced.........you can kiss your intake valves goodbye.
vertigasen
Active Member
Yup. For a mostly stock 2-vave PI motor, I'd go with the stage 2 PI cams, found here: http://modularheadshop.com/Cams.htm.
And don't skimp on degreeing them in. Either get the tools to do it yourself, or pay an extra $150 and let Nick @ MHS do it for you. My cams from MHS were 6 degrees off.Granted it was 6 degrees retarded, and thus wouldn't hurt anything, I would have lost a lot of potential power. And if you were to get a set that were 6 degrees advanced.........you can kiss your intake valves goodbye.
Mine were off too. Because I got the combo from Nick, they were degreed as part of the package. One of the cams was 6 degrees retarded and the other was 8 degrees. My builder checked them and they were pretty much spot on to what Nick said. I think mine are installed and 109.98 and 109.99 on a 110 centerline.....I wont complain with that.
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