stall speed for a stock motor???

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.

Sep 13, 2004

2,487

4

0

Miami, Ok

Aug 7, 2005

#1

• Aug 7, 2005

• #1

If i were to buy a stall converter, what would be a good speed??? I was thinking 2500 because they are a little cheaper....

 

S

Scorcher2005

Member

Apr 17, 2004

883

0

16

South Carolina

Aug 7, 2005

#2

• Aug 7, 2005

• #2

What happened to you selling your car?

Also, i read your sig...you are rebuilding the engine and only going for 15s? Most Fox's are at least that fast if not 14 sec cars all stock.

 

2

2002BLGT

Well-Known Member

Dec 18, 2003

2,945

4

59

Bedford VA

Aug 7, 2005

#3

• Aug 7, 2005

• #3

depends on what kind of mods you wanna do later , if you plan on heads , intake or cam later go ahead and stick the 3000 in it ... you wont regret it even with the stock motor

 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.

Sep 13, 2004

2,487

4

0

Miami, Ok

Aug 7, 2005

#4

• Aug 7, 2005

• #4

I decided to just rebuild the motor and keep the car, its tired and weak i can tell. My rear end peg legs also. I have a new rebuilt rearend with 3.90s ready to go in the same time i rebuild. I will probably put a shift kit in the AOD

I want to do the t5 swap but i know it would take forever and would be hard etc.... So i might stick with the AOD. www.ford-aod.com sells some mild converters that stall to 2500 and cost like 240$

I dont want to dissapoint myself if dont run in the 14s after the rebuild/rearend swap. So i expect a low 15....

What do you think a nice, fresh rebuilt stock 5.0 with 3.90s and a shift kit/stall would run???

Would it be a good idea to install a small cam, like E or Stage 1??

 

S

Scorcher2005

Member

Apr 17, 2004

883

0

16

South Carolina

Aug 8, 2005

#5

• Aug 8, 2005

• #5

i expect w/ a fresh motor (new rings, bearings, gaskets, cleaned, honed, possibly some mildly E7 porting), stall converter, rebuilt trak-lok w/ 3.90s and a quality shift kit (bauman or transgo...do not get B&M, mine sucks) at sea level you can run high 13s easily. I would go ahead and get the cam in there while the motor is apart so you wont have to do it all later. You might lose a little power w/ all stock components. Get the stage 1 over the E, its a little bit more powerful

 

5.0 HOtrain

Founding Member

May 20, 2001

2,247

0

47

New Hampshire

Aug 8, 2005

#6

• Aug 8, 2005

• #6

Are you going to go through the heads also? Wouldnt make sense to rebuild the bottom end and just slap on the same worn out heads again.

 

rsw007

New Member

Jul 7, 2004

469

1

0

Lexington,SC

Aug 8, 2005

#7

• Aug 8, 2005

• #7

CHEAP is the key word there.

cheap quality
cheap performance
cheap price

why waste time and money? if your going to do it, do it once and do it right!

the stock cam is fine for the stock heads but atleast put new springs and retainers and maybe some 1.7 rockers. but if you plan on heads later then i would go ahead and install the cam now and have the converter built for the cam and the heads you plan to run "intake also"

 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.

Oct 22, 2004

930

4

18

Arlington, MA

Aug 8, 2005

#8

• Aug 8, 2005

• #8

I had a 2k and it was nothing. Might as well have been stock. I went 3K and noticed a difference finally.

My advice to you is get a high stall 3k minimum (cause you're not going to see the difference with a lesser unit really and you'll be wasting your money) that has lockup.

You get the high stall effect in first and second where you need it and partial lockup in 3rd and full lockup in OD, negating the high stall loss. Best of all worlds. But dont waste your time with the 2.5 k stall. You'll feel disapointed. Besides, based on the stock powerband, the peak torque is like 3000 and so a 3k stall is much more suited to the motor's powerband.

 

D

davs5.0

Founding Member

Jul 10, 2002

921

0

0

windsor,ontario,canada

Aug 9, 2005

#9

• Aug 9, 2005

• #9

Edge racing 9.5" 3000 stall would work perfect in your car. With the rebuilt engine, some bolt on's and the rear end, don't be suprised if you are in the 13's. I ran 13.80's with the stock motor with bolt ons and 3.90's and 3K stall.

 

Mavrick

Founding Member

Aug 29, 2002

2,264

0

46

Collingwood, ON

Aug 9, 2005

#10

• Aug 9, 2005

• #10

Go big or go home.. definetly do not cheap out on stuff like this. Think of when the time comes to replace it.. i doubt if replacing a shift kit would be the funnest job on a mustang!

 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.

Oct 22, 2004

930

4

18

Arlington, MA

Aug 9, 2005

#11

• Aug 9, 2005

• #11

Mavrick said:

Go big or go home.. definetly do not cheap out on stuff like this. Think of when the time comes to replace it.. i doubt if replacing a shift kit would be the funnest job on a mustang!

Click to expand...

Yeah try dropping the valve body 3 times in 2 weeks switching springs in and out trying to get the damn transgo shift kit to behave. Trans fluid gets absolutely everywhere and sticks visciously to every surface and you're still wiping your tools and shop off weeks later. Plus it's $5 a quart for ATF!!

I agree. With the automatics, do it once, do it right.

 

ExplodingGopher

New Member

Jun 11, 2004

517

0

0

The mistake on the lake (Ohio)

Aug 9, 2005

#12

• Aug 9, 2005

• #12

Mavrick said:

Go big or go home..

Click to expand...

Thats what i said this spring... Im using a 3000 non lockup stall in my 466/C6 combo, cam makes peak torque around 3000 too, and im using my street tires for the first week lol.