stall speed for a stock motor???

I decided to just rebuild the motor and keep the car, its tired and weak i can tell. My rear end peg legs also. I have a new rebuilt rearend with 3.90s ready to go in the same time i rebuild. I will probably put a shift kit in the AOD

I want to do the t5 swap but i know it would take forever and would be hard etc.... So i might stick with the AOD. www.ford-aod.com sells some mild converters that stall to 2500 and cost like 240$

I dont want to dissapoint myself if dont run in the 14s after the rebuild/rearend swap. So i expect a low 15....

What do you think a nice, fresh rebuilt stock 5.0 with 3.90s and a shift kit/stall would run???

Would it be a good idea to install a small cam, like E or Stage 1??
 
i expect w/ a fresh motor (new rings, bearings, gaskets, cleaned, honed, possibly some mildly E7 porting), stall converter, rebuilt trak-lok w/ 3.90s and a quality shift kit (bauman or transgo...do not get B&M, mine sucks) at sea level you can run high 13s easily. I would go ahead and get the cam in there while the motor is apart so you wont have to do it all later. You might lose a little power w/ all stock components. Get the stage 1 over the E, its a little bit more powerful
 
CHEAP is the key word there.

cheap quality
cheap performance
cheap price

why waste time and money? if your going to do it, do it once and do it right!

the stock cam is fine for the stock heads but atleast put new springs and retainers and maybe some 1.7 rockers. but if you plan on heads later then i would go ahead and install the cam now and have the converter built for the cam and the heads you plan to run "intake also"
 
I had a 2k and it was nothing. Might as well have been stock. I went 3K and noticed a difference finally.

My advice to you is get a high stall 3k minimum (cause you're not going to see the difference with a lesser unit really and you'll be wasting your money) that has lockup.

You get the high stall effect in first and second where you need it and partial lockup in 3rd and full lockup in OD, negating the high stall loss. Best of all worlds. But dont waste your time with the 2.5 k stall. You'll feel disapointed. Besides, based on the stock powerband, the peak torque is like 3000 and so a 3k stall is much more suited to the motor's powerband.
 
Mavrick said:
Go big or go home.. definetly do not cheap out on stuff like this. Think of when the time comes to replace it.. i doubt if replacing a shift kit would be the funnest job on a mustang!

Yeah try dropping the valve body 3 times in 2 weeks switching springs in and out trying to get the damn transgo shift kit to behave. Trans fluid gets absolutely everywhere and sticks visciously to every surface and you're still wiping your tools and shop off weeks later. Plus it's $5 a quart for ATF!!

I agree. With the automatics, do it once, do it right.