i was out in the mustang today. driving home i was waiting for a train and when traffic started to move i went to go and the car started runnin horrible and stalled. i cranked it and it started back up and i drove for like 10 feet then had to stop again and it stalled. it did that like 2 more times before i was moving again. then i was drivin kinda hard and it was fine but when i let off i felt it dying so i got over into the turn lane to go into my neighbor hood and it died again. it fired up one last time and that got me the rest of the way home. after i got home i let it sit for a minute or two then i fired it up and it was fine or like a minute then the idle dropped and it was runnin horrible til it died. i just in stalled new plugs yesterday and also installed my ramchargers fan yesterday. i dont know if that would have anything to do with it but i figured id throw it out there. does this sound like the tfi module? if not give me some more ideas. thanks in advance....
stalled in traffic wtf????
- Thread starter whitenblu89
- Start date
dvs bullet
New Member
could be the tfi mod. Did you check the fuel pressure with it running? At least you could rule that out. When my tfi went, it just cut right out, and it did start for about 10 mins or so
Pull the codes man. Do a search on the user Jrichker and you will find links. Or get a manual and it will walk you through, much easier IMO.
Jrichker also taught me this. Get some safety glasses and a rag and a tire pressure gauge. This may spray fuel, and you dont want to be on fire, trust me. turn on the key and check fuel pressure. Dont check it at idle, thats crazy right behind the alternator. Thats where the fitting is, its a schrader valve like you tires have.
Oh, should be 30-40 PSI. Should read 40 with just the key on and engine off, there will be no vacuum.
Jrichker also taught me this. Get some safety glasses and a rag and a tire pressure gauge. This may spray fuel, and you dont want to be on fire, trust me. turn on the key and check fuel pressure. Dont check it at idle, thats crazy right behind the alternator. Thats where the fitting is, its a schrader valve like you tires have.
Oh, should be 30-40 PSI. Should read 40 with just the key on and engine off, there will be no vacuum.
twolo4u2c2
5 Year Member
alright i started it up today and let it run for like 45 minutes. and everything is fine runs great and everything is well i took it out driving and everything so thanks for the help. but i think i may have been because i washed the engine earlier that day and maybe some water messed something up.
alright lets bring this back to the top. it did it again to me today. i think im going to replace the tfi mod and the coil tomorrow. it seems to only happen when the car is pretty hot. today it was after i was driving for about 20 minutes. it starts right back up like 15-30 seconds later. then it runs for a little bit then it will fall out again. i have pretty much ruled out fuel because if i leave it in gear and push the gas a little it will come back to life. so its obviously getting fuel. so it has to be a spark problem. if anyone has any input it would be greatly appreciated
did you get to pull any of the codes?
I've had the same problem twice before: when I sense it starting to stall, I'd floor it, it will backfire, hesitate and stall. Then it would take some time (15-20 min) before it would start up again.
I had changed the TFI, FP, TPS, EVP, plugs, wires, filter, you name it.
still no change.
My solution was ensuring the puter had a good, solid ground.
Pull your codes imediately after it shuts off and see what pops up. If you get sensors that are on the same circuit, you may have a faulty ground somewhere in the line.
I've had the same problem twice before: when I sense it starting to stall, I'd floor it, it will backfire, hesitate and stall. Then it would take some time (15-20 min) before it would start up again.
I had changed the TFI, FP, TPS, EVP, plugs, wires, filter, you name it.
still no change.My solution was ensuring the puter had a good, solid ground.
Pull your codes imediately after it shuts off and see what pops up. If you get sensors that are on the same circuit, you may have a faulty ground somewhere in the line.
Stang8URMPRT
Active Member
Do you have a 3G alt upgrade? When those fans kick on, it could be draining your battery because the alt can't keep up. This would cause the voltage to drop below what is needed to keep everything working properly. Just my .02.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
whitenblu89 said:
First off at idle you should not be using the IAC. (assuming stock ofcourse). A stock motor should be able to idle with the iac unplugged.
I had the exact same problem in my 98 cobra. Turns out it was a bad MAF.
and as for the fuel being rulled out... You could have a clogged filter or a failing pump. I just replaced a pump on a car that had an intermittent idle that would eventually stall out. Fuel starvation at idle. I would get a fuel pressure gauge and rule that out. Especially if you have the original pump.
ok guys, to answer your questions, i do have the 3g alternator upgrade. and the pump is relatively new. i replaced the coil today and it seem to have made the car idle better. idle wasnt suffering before it just is better. also it picked up on the top end too(3000+). we'll find out if this fixed the problem or not in the next couple weeks. so thanks for the suggestions. im going to change the fuel filter just to make sure its new.
Curse
Member
I am also voting on a bad tfi, when you get your new one don't forget to also buy a tube of dielectric grease and lightly smear the bad of the module.Good luck
