Stalling and oil pressure problem

[Rat Race]

I dont know if the two are related, but here goes-

When I start my 67 289, I have good oil pressure- after about 10 minutes or it

warms up it drops to nothing on the gauge and stays there, unless I come to a

stoplight and rev it up a bit, then it goes up, but right back down again when I drive. I just got it on the road after a year. I changed the oil twice so far when i first got it but only put about 20 miles on it before I parked it and started working on it. Before that it sat for 5 or 6 years.

So Im wondering what could be causing this and what I have to do to fix it. Engine was rebuilt 15,000 miles ago according to the former owner.


Second problem Im having is that the car will drive for about a half hour, at all speeds, and then all of a sudden start making sucking sounds thru the carb like its gasping for fuel, and then stalls.

It wont start after that for about 20 minutes. Then it does, and runs rough. Needless to say after the 2nd time this has happened, I limped the car home and now it is parked.

I put a new fuel tank and all lines from tank to carb, had carb rebuilt, new fuel filter, new plugs points condenser, cap and wires, last year before i parked it.

I did not replace the fuel pump.


So what shoud i do? I just finally got car back together after a year and a half and I dont want to blow the engine. Engine runs good otherwise.

PS coolant temp gauge stays within normal range but I noticed when I opened rad cap it was steaming- Please need some help here, and Thanks

 

[iskwezm]

my oil pressure does the same,starts off at 50 psi then after warm drops to about 20psi,goes up with rpm's,this is on a fresh motor with about 50 miles.
So any answers will be appreciated by me too.

 

[mustangman1974]

From my understanding the oil presure problem might be bad oil or poor wuality oil. You should be fine as long as you have 10psi for every 1000 Rpm. When you rebuilt your enging did you install a new oil pump AND a new pickup?

As far as the engine dying it might me vapor lock. you need at least 10 inched of rubber or non hard line hose before and after the fule pump. The rubber will expand and contract with the temp no allowing air pockets to form in the line. you migh want to check the travel of the floats in teh carb. Even a feshly rebuilt or new can have bad casting empeading the movement of the float.

 

[65up2d8]

my oil pressure does the same,starts off at 50 psi then after warm drops to about 20psi,goes up with rpm's,this is on a fresh motor with about 50 miles.
So any answers will be appreciated by me too.

Iskwezm, you are describing exactly what my engine has always done. Its been in my car about 15 years with 0 problems, and I've ran the piss out of it. Granted, in that time I probably haven't put but around 50K miles on it, but I think you're fine. The original posters situation concerns me though, as he is saying he has no oil pressure. What type of gauge do you have?

 

[66ford289]

Mine does the same thing with the oil pressure, seems low? mustangman is most likey right it sounds exactly like vapor lock. do your fuel lines run near any heat?

 

[pabear89]

If your reading the Factory pressure guage,
replace your sending unit. it is out of range (worn out)

Your Stalling sounds like the spacer plate has been removed,
Causing the fuel to boil in the carb.

PB

 

[iskwezm]

Iskwezm, you are describing exactly what my engine has always done. Its been in my car about 15 years with 0 problems, and I've ran the piss out of it. Granted, in that time I probably haven't put but around 50K miles on it, but I think you're fine. The original posters situation concerns me though, as he is saying he has no oil pressure. What type of gauge do you have?

Autometer Ultralite.0-75psi electric,using 10w40 for break in.

 

[67coupestang]

my bronco did the same thing oil pressure was fine at start-up and around 40psi when on the highway but would bottom out at idle. and it never knocked... tore it apart and all the crank bearings were shot and it needed to have the crank turned. as a side note dont buy a oil pump from an "economy" store. mine only lasted maybe 500 miles after replacing all that

 

[grego37]

start with a good working gauge and sending unit,
on a newer engine I would think low oil pressure would point to excessive bearing clearances?.

on an older engine I would think worn bearings giving you excessive bearing clearances?
may want to try a heavier oil.

On some applications, maybe a melling High volume/high pressure pump.

 

[Rat Race]

It makes sense, every time it stalled it did it when it was hot out, maybe above 85 degres, so I think its vapor lock.

I do have the factory hard line running from the fuel pump to the carb, I guess I should replace it with a 3/8 rubber fuel line.

The spacer is under the 2bbl carb. I dont want to use an electric fuel pump I want the car as stock as possible, It does have headers and i put on a dual exhaust.

I read somewhere that I should rejet the carb after headers is this true? Go bigger or smaller? Read that the engine will wake up cause the exhaust is much more efficent now.Sorry for all the questions but Im no big time mechanic, just want to be able to drive my car without the stalling problem.

Any ideas how to make a "cool can"? I mean i get the basic idea but I dont think keeping ice in it would be practical it would probably melt within minutes . How do you keep the cool can cool?

I did not rebuild the engine- former owner did, and hes gone now, so i cant pick his brains on how the motor was rebuilt.

I have good compression and the engine runs tight (?) and strong what else would indicate worn bearing surfaces?

Also Ive used Castrol 40 weight and a bottle of Lucas oil additive, should i drain that all out and use a lighter weight or heavier weight?

Is overheating a usual problem in 67 289's?

The clutch fan, and radaiator are stock, it has the factory shroud on it but I never replaced the thermostat, should I?

temp gauge did read slightly to the hot side when she stalled and sputtered.

How can I fix all this so I can use my car in the summer, I really want to drive it!

One last thing someone said something about the gas cap, is it vented. Is it? Stock Mustang gas cap.

Thanks again