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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Stalling out STILL!

  • Thread starter Thread starter IEatRiceGT
  • Start date Start date Dec 10, 2005
I

IEatRiceGT

New Member
Sep 22, 2005
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MD
Dec 10, 2005
#1
  • Dec 10, 2005
  • #1
-Car is 1995 Mustang GT, brand new everything with 7k miles(short block, heads...)
Okay, I have done everything from new plugs/wires to replacing IAC to checking for vac leaks but I am still constantly stalling out. It runs/starts fine but then it will start to lope and then stall out. This happens when I'm driving and come to a stop along with when I start the car up. What could this be? Possibly a timing issue, I'm not sure if it is advanced or not (previous owner tuned it)? Let me know, thanks.
 

dstanggt50

Founding Member
Sep 13, 2000
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Woodinville, WA
Dec 10, 2005
#2
  • Dec 10, 2005
  • #2
Maybe chk the maf voltage @idle, I had similar idle and driveability issues when mine went out, no codes came up, its supposed to be around .6-.8 @ idle. So far I have been running ok w/timing @ 14, no aftermarket tuning, f/p around 43psi, don't have afr's, but do have aftermarket cam and ported heads, may wanna chk maf
 

R.J.

Member
Aug 20, 2003
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Warwick, Rhode Island
Dec 10, 2005
#3
  • Dec 10, 2005
  • #3
That exact problem happened to a friend of mine after a TFS H/C/I install, mechanically reseting his idle fixed it. This is how he did it:

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.
 
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IEatRiceGT

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Sep 22, 2005
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Dec 11, 2005
#4
  • Dec 11, 2005
  • #4
I'll give that a try the next time I'm back from college, should be in a few days w/ christmas break. Thanks for the advice.
 
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