stalling ?

hey stangers. I have a stalling under braking ?. I did a 95 MAF upgrade, 65mm FRPP TB,egr spacer, new sensors, o2 sensors, Tmoss intake etc. a little while ago and just getting the time to run it and good weather. checked and rechecked all my lines, plugs etc. I did a base idle set, pulled the idle control motor plug, backed out the set screw until it would just about run, plugged it in and pulled the neg cable to set the ecu. I did the TPS voltage test and set at .98 volts key on. checked timimg which is fine 10degrees advanced. I put in a new oem idle control motor even though my old was fine just because of the age as part of the sensors I changed.

the problem. the car starts and idles fine, a lilttle bumpy but better than before(stock cam) I think it's the normal idle issue. runs and drives great no issues, shifts fine(T5) and the rpms don't drop off in between shifts no issues until I go to stop mostly hard the rpms stumble and the car shuts off, starts right back up and idles fine, now if I tap the gas before the stumble it won't shut off it will catch fine and continue to idle. does the T5 have a vss, maybe that would cause a problem with a sudden drop in speed.

I used my buddues code tester and came up with egr flow insufficient the egr was replaced 2yrs ago new ford, no other codes present. we pulled a vacuum on it and the diaghram was fine, tested the vacuum line and no vacuum at any rpm coming from the egr vacuum soleniod side, but vacuum going in so I got one of those coming.

I need help figuring this out. THE CAR RAN GREAT BEFORE I TOOK IT APART !!! isn't it always the way . would the egr cause this issue? is the new Idle speed control motor defective? or is the idle to low? I'm going by the stock gauge but i figure I'm atleast 700rpm. any help would be great!!

bloopbloob thanks for the responce. I wasn't sure if the egr would cause the stalling like I said or the idle speed control motor. I'll have to wait until the egr vacuum soleniod comes in and I'll give the egr a cleaning also. I know there isn't any vacuum to the egr at idle but we didn't get any at part throttle either. I tapped the solenoid and dusty crap came out the side of it. I'll have to ask him the code again he usd his snap on scanner I remember it reading insufficient flow I'm not sure what that is. like I said the egr is 2yrs old and so is the egr positoning sensor, but that sensor could be junk to? this is nerve racking.

yeah we used a vacuum pump on the egr itself and the diaphragm worked it moved in and out and held vacuum. we then hooked a T up between the gauge and the egr and the soleniod and opened part throttle and got no vacuum. we then pulled the vacuum lines of the soleniod and had vacuum going into the soleniod. So thats why I purchased a new soleniod figured it wasn't sending vacuum to the egr, if thats not it then maybe the egr postion sensor isn't calling to the soleniod but I'll have to trouble shoot that after I guess.

bloopbloob since you seem to be the one chimming in on my post. I searched around and found some more info on code 33 and found your old posts so I'm getting closer to it being egr related. I pulled of my egr and it doesn't look that bad. it doesn't leak if I blow into it and the diaphragm is holding vacuum. I'm just waiting for the soleniod. the vacuum lines look good and I got some electrical connector cleaner and cleaned up the pugs. I can do a test on the plugs letr if needed.

since I'm still learning about my car still would it be safe to think that if the iac wasn't working or the new one was defective the car wouldn't idle or run at all? I'm just curious abou the systems under here. I know if I pull the plug it shuts off, and like I posted I did the base idle set up and the car idles and drives fine so one could rule that part out correct? thanks again man for giving me some help and pointing me in a direction.