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Stang won't start

  • Thread starter Thread starter 67-in-pieces
  • Start date Start date Aug 6, 2006
6

67-in-pieces

New Member
Aug 6, 2006
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Connecticut
Aug 6, 2006
#1
  • Aug 6, 2006
  • #1
Hello people,
I have read this forum a few times and the info was a great help.
This time, I couldn't find a similar problem.
A little about my car. It's a 67 coupe. I am (will be, if I can get it to stay running) the second registered owner. The original owner was a guy who owned a body shop, and bought the car for his wife in 1967. It only has two options, a 289 V8, and power steering.
I bought it, in pieces, from his granson who was going to restore it. After I got it home, it took aprox 25 hours to put it together. I turned the key and it came to life. That was the best feeling, and not much but trouble since.
First, I couldn't keep a battery in it. So I found the problem to be the harness. (Corroded under the battery tray) Replaced the harness and the battery. Car runs again.
Then leaking in the rain. Found and repaired the heater cowel, with a cowel kit.
Then the voltage regulator, starter, and starter relay switch (on the shock tower) went, and all were replaced.
NOW, the car won't start.
I turn the key and get one slight click and then nothing.
I checked all the grounds (that I could find) and still the same thing, one little click. I removed the positive cable from the starter relay and put it directly on the battery and the engine cranks like it wants to start, but I don't think I have any spark. (I didn't check yet.)
I was wondering if this sounds like it could be the ignition switch?
Has anyone had similar problems?
There isn't a balast resistor (like in the old Chrysler products), is there?
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Aug 7, 2006
#2
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #2
If it cranks when you bypass the solenoid, and it clicks when you turn the key, I would try a different solenoid.
 
6

67-in-pieces

New Member
Aug 6, 2006
20
0
0
Connecticut
Aug 7, 2006
#3
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #3
I replaced the solenoid, twice.
(the first one had a rattle in it.)

Any other suggestions?



I had the car running. Then I let it sit for a couple of months.
Then when I went to start it, just one click.
I don't get a repaet click when I try the key repetedly.
I only get the click once. If I wait awhile, I might get the click again.
I'm stumped.
 

tos

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2001
896
68
59
Cincinnati Ohio
Aug 7, 2006
#4
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #4
Have you checked or replaced the battery cable that runs from the pos side of your batt to the starter solenoid? If i understand you right when you took the cable that runs from solenoid to starter and touched the pos side of the battery then it sounds like you are also bypassing the cable from the batt to solenoid. Those cables will get corrosion inside of them after awhile and will not carry enough juice. See if you can get a voltage reading at the battery side of the solenoid and see what you get before and while trying to start. Or just bypass that cable with some jumper cables and see what you get.
 

tos

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2001
896
68
59
Cincinnati Ohio
Aug 7, 2006
#5
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #5
Also its been my experience that when you only get one click then something is either loose or corroded and that one click means its looseing contact as soon as you hit the key.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Aug 7, 2006
#6
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #6
If you let it sit for a few months between the last time you tried to start it, I'd try to charge the battery. Start with the easy solution and work your way into it. Charge the battery. They make a cheater clip to the coil and hotwire your own car to see if you can get it running. If you get it running you can start narrowing down the problem from there.
 
6

67-in-pieces

New Member
Aug 6, 2006
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0
Connecticut
Aug 7, 2006
#7
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #7
tos said:
Have you checked or replaced the battery cable that runs from the pos side of your batt to the starter solenoid? If i understand you right when you took the cable that runs from solenoid to starter and touched the pos side of the battery then it sounds like you are also bypassing the cable from the batt to solenoid. Those cables will get corrosion inside of them after awhile and will not carry enough juice. See if you can get a voltage reading at the battery side of the solenoid and see what you get before and while trying to start. Or just bypass that cable with some jumper cables and see what you get.
Click to expand...

No, I haven't tried that.
Thanks, that's a good idea.
 
6

67-in-pieces

New Member
Aug 6, 2006
20
0
0
Connecticut
Aug 7, 2006
#8
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #8
Rusty67 said:
If you let it sit for a few months between the last time you tried to start it, I'd try to charge the battery. Start with the easy solution and work your way into it. Charge the battery. They make a cheater clip to the coil and hotwire your own car to see if you can get it running. If you get it running you can start narrowing down the problem from there.
Click to expand...

The battery isn't the problem, I took the brand new battery out of my daughters car yesterday. Same thing. Cranks when I use the pos cable from the starter to the battery.

I tried to get the ignition out of the dash but I couldn't get it. I'll try that again if the cheater switch leads me back to the ignition.
But your idea for a cheater switch is a gteat idea.
Thanks.

Now I have two things to try when I get home.

Thanks guys.
 
6

67-in-pieces

New Member
Aug 6, 2006
20
0
0
Connecticut
Aug 7, 2006
#9
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #9
tos said:
Have you checked or replaced the battery cable that runs from the pos side of your batt to the starter solenoid?
Click to expand...

I checked the voltage at the terminal on the solenoid about a week ago, 12V.
I did not check it while my son was turning the key.
But I tried your other suggestion and jumpered the "s" terminal to the POS side of the solenoid. It attempted to crank, I tried it a couple more times and it tried to crank twice more, then nothiong.
As it turns out, that cable from the POS post of the battery is the kind that bolts onto the cable and "clamps" the cable to the attaching part (that goes around the post of the battery). I unbolted it from the battery and undid the cable bolts. Corrosioin galore, coming out fom under the insulation too.
I took it off the solenoid and that end didn't look so good either.

I think you found my problem, tos. Thanks.

I will buy another cable and take it from there. I'll let you guys know what happens.

Thanks to all who suggested things for me to try.

I hope that I can contribute to others that might have a weird gremlin lurking under their hood.
 

tos

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2001
896
68
59
Cincinnati Ohio
Aug 8, 2006
#10
  • Aug 8, 2006
  • #10
If you havent replaced your ground cable you should do that too. The ground is just as likely to do the same later on especially with a bolt on terminal clamp.
 
6

67-in-pieces

New Member
Aug 6, 2006
20
0
0
Connecticut
Aug 8, 2006
#11
  • Aug 8, 2006
  • #11
Good idea.
The ground is not the bolt on type, but who knows how old it is.
Heck, I think I'll get a new cable that goes from the solenoir to the starter while I am at it.

Thanks again.
 
6

67-in-pieces

New Member
Aug 6, 2006
20
0
0
Connecticut
Aug 8, 2006
#12
  • Aug 8, 2006
  • #12
Success.

Tos, you da man, er a woman, er a scary lookin thing with pig-tails.... (That is a ditterent looking avitar).

I put new cables on it and the car cranked. I flooded it and ran the battery down, but I have no doubt that it'll run just fine.

Thanx again tos, and guys.
 

tos

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2001
896
68
59
Cincinnati Ohio
Aug 10, 2006
#13
  • Aug 10, 2006
  • #13
I Is da man aint I !!! seriously though I hope that works for you . There are alot of different problems posted here and usually there is someone here that can help. I get help, I give help Thats what we are here for.
By the way I am a man despite my hamaphrodite (spelling?) looking avatar. I'm actually quite handsome.
 
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