Do you have a fender-solenoid lug with only a relatively small wire on it?
If you have 4 or 6 AWG cables on both fender-solenoid lugs, someone might have read something online, gotten confused, and wired up the circuit incorrectly.
If they put on a new type of starter, and hooked it up incorrectly, then it would do exactly what you said.
See what type of starter you have. You can tell by if there are one or more wires going to the starter, and if there's a relay on the top of the starter.
Here are some pictures:
Uhm, the old/original style is the dirty starter, and the new style is the new starter.
The diagram in this post show what the solenoid wiring is supposed to look like for 92-93 model cars.
Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.
Mine looks like the starter on the left one of the new style starters and its hooked up right, ive done it twice.
So, you have it such that:
1) The big/fat wire on the starter's relay is always live with +12V.
2) On the relay/solenoid on the fender, you have a big terminal (the one that's switched) with only the small wire that goes to the relay on the starter.
Just about any other way, and you'll have the starter "act like a generator" and produce electricity while it's turning which will activate the starter's relay until the current draw kills the relay. Note that many electric vehicles, and some newer gas engines, use a combo integrated starter/alternator. There's no magic, no hand waving, just standard electro-magnetic theory.
My fender relay/solenoid is relocated and "underneath/besides" my ABS module that I have mounted on the Driver's side fender. So, I don't have an easy way for me to get a picture of my fender relay/solenoid.
If you have it hooked up correctly, then you likely need a spacer. Or, maybe the stater of flexplate have dings/nicks.
Good Luck!
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