Yes it is. Basically there are the two large posts on the solenoid, one connects directly to battery and has all the other power feeds on it. The second only goes to the starter. The small one on top gets a power signal from ignition and essentially connects the two large posts when engaged.
Starter, Solenoid, Clutch Safety Switch, OR??
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You are eliminating the possibility there is a bad connection in the existing cables/connections on the relay
Battery to small post will be a clean connection.
Also, one more thing to check. The starter relay grounds through the metal casing that mounts it to the fender. Make sure this is clean and rust-free and has a good solid rust free connection to the fender
You can see where the clips are on the relay. 12v pos and a hood ground will close the relay and bridge the two biggest posts together.
A 9v battery will not activate the relay. I tried.
Battery to small post will be a clean connection.
Also, one more thing to check. The starter relay grounds through the metal casing that mounts it to the fender. Make sure this is clean and rust-free and has a good solid rust free connection to the fender
You can see where the clips are on the relay. 12v pos and a hood ground will close the relay and bridge the two biggest posts together.
A 9v battery will not activate the relay. I tried.
Hook a dvm to the battery and take a reading when you engage the starter, I bet you have a bad battery, it can read 12 whatever volts at rest ( nothing on ) and when you turn the key to start the battery volts drop. Like a rock!
This is all covered in the 'no crank' link I posted.
This also is dependent upon good connections and wires. Also covered there.
I replaced both battery cables and starter cable (and starter) with the next size larger cable due to a slow crank when hot symptom, a slow crank when hot symptom will kill wires, starter and the solenoid.
This also assumes the engine is not locked up.
This is all covered in the 'no crank' link I posted.
This also is dependent upon good connections and wires. Also covered there.
I replaced both battery cables and starter cable (and starter) with the next size larger cable due to a slow crank when hot symptom, a slow crank when hot symptom will kill wires, starter and the solenoid.
This also assumes the engine is not locked up.
- Mar 2, 2015
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We just had the starter fail on the 86 not long ago. It took out the starter relay as well. Had to replace both of them. It is possible that high amperage from the starter could've fried the contact in the new relay.
UPDATE.....So I went to remove the wires from the post on the starter solenoid so I could clean them and you'll never guess what happened. The freaking casing around the post broke off and the entire post came off the solenoid. So I reinstalled the old solenoid just to see if that was the problem and when I hit the key it fired up!!!! So it looks like the original problem was that the starter was shot. I went back to Autozone and exchanged the solenoid for another new one and I'll throw it in the glove box as a spare and use the old one until it gives up the ghost.
I'd like to thank everyone for your help. You guys rock!!!!
I'd like to thank everyone for your help. You guys rock!!!!
Last edited:
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
The plastic on the starter solenoids has been deteriorating for years (started with 1995 F series recall)?
First thing I do on a no start is grab the cables and wiggle
About 50 percent of the time the solenoid falls apart (the plastic cracks)
First thing I do on a no start is grab the cables and wiggle
About 50 percent of the time the solenoid falls apart (the plastic cracks)
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