Well i noticed today, that the green wire to the solenoid which i believe is the alternator wire get extremly hot when the car is running, enough to where the insulation is bubbling. Alt is brand new as well. Looks like its gonna have to go to a shop cause im lost!
Did you do any upgrades to the car that caused this sticking?
Did you do a 3g alternator upgrade, e-fan, ect? Where did you take the hot from? If the soleniod/contactor move it to a seperate distribution block.
Sounds like the Contacts inside solenoid are welding together. Too many amps across the switch.
Did you do any upgrades to the car that caused this sticking?
Did you do a 3g alternator upgrade, e-fan, ect? Where did you take the hot from? If the soleniod/contactor move it to a seperate distribution block.
Sounds like the Contacts inside solenoid are welding together. Too many amps across the switch.
You are precisely correct. Too much current pulled through the starter solenoid is what welds the contacts.
Here's something else not explained elsewhere: a DC motor's current draw is a function of the speed and load it is under.
Trying to turn a large load with a lower voltage causes the motor to slow down and draw more current.
It is very easy to increase the current draw of a starter motor beyond the rating of the starter solenoid and wiring if the battery voltage is low or there are some bad connections in the power or ground circuits for the starter.
That is why I include the voltage drop testing instructions in the No Crank Checklist I posted. Keep in mind hat it is necessary to have the circuit actually trying to crank the engine in order to accurately measure the available voltage and voltage drops across connections.
You are precisely correct. Too much current pulled through the starter solenoid is what welds the contacts.
Here's something else not explained elsewhere: a DC motor's current draw is a function of the speed and load it is under.
Trying to turn a large load with a lower voltage causes the motor to slow down and draw more current.
It is very easy to increase the current draw of a starter motor beyond the rating of the starter solenoid and wiring if the battery voltage is low or there are some bad connections in the power or ground circuits for the starter.
That is why I include the voltage drop testing instructions in the No Crank Checklist I posted. Keep in mind hat it is necessary to have the circuit actually trying to crank the engine in order to accurately measure the available voltage and voltage drops across connections.
Starters:
Magnetism is what makes electric motors work. When everything is working correctly, more current makes a stronger magnetic field. The stronger magnetic field you create, the more torque you get from the motor.
The earlier starter motors were series wound. That means the current to make the magnetic field goes through the field windings first and then to the rotating armature. That increases the total resistance in Ohms and limits the amount of current the starter can draw and turn into torque.
I believe the 92 and later starters used a permanent magnet field. Since there is no field winding to energize, all the current goes to create the magnetic field for the rotating armature. That works out to reduced current draw and more cranking power for the same current draw.
Well guys I figured out the problem. Ignition lock cylinder wasnt retracting fully after turning the key to start the car. It was sending constant power to the solenoid. Replaced it with a new unit from Ford and all is good. Now its time to store it away for the winter. SUCKS! Thanks everyone'!!
How was the solenoid seeing constant power? Do you have your clutch switch bypassed? If the clutch switch circuit is intact, one can hold the ignition switch in the crank-position all day long but power would not reach the solenoid until the clutch was depressed.
I'm just asking to make sure the issue is truly solved............