Starter won't START!!!

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist.

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Coil
B.) TFI module
C.) PIP sensor in distributor
D.) ECC relay next to computer
E.) Fuse links in wiring harness
F.) Ignition switch
G.) Computer

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start. Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off.
Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out. Beware of fire hazard when you do this.
No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – press reset button on the inertia switch located by driver’s side rear shock absorber. Most of the time, you can remove the plastic access cover over the shock absorber top mount to get at it. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 94.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness.

4.) Spark & fuel OK.
A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer ( not very likely)

Be more specific . Cranks but won't start. Does nothing when you hit the key. What?

huh

solonoid or a connection from it to starter.

Jason, that looks like Joe's list.
turn key to on, car in neutral (if manual trans).
jump the small slide-on-terminal on the top of the solenoid to the battery side of the solenoid (has all the connections on it). if car starts, problem with wiring from ignition to solenoid (at ignition switch, neutral safety switch, clutch safety switch, wire itself etc).

if no luck, jump the two big lugs of the solenoid using a big screwdriver, etc. if it starts, bad solenoid.

good luck

It is the list that I was given when I was having trouble with my car starting. I kept it for a reference. I am not sure who was kind enough to give it to me, but I thought I would share it and help somebody else out.

JasonMonette said:

It is the list that I was given when I was having trouble with my car starting. I kept it for a reference. I am not sure who was kind enough to give it to me, but I thought I would share it and help somebody else out.

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that's cool. i was kinda kidding. it came from Jrichker. i understand now, that you didnt know whose it was, otherwise, you would have given him credit.
cool.

lawrence said:

Well, I got the stang started after removing the negative terminal from the battery, but then later that day it was not starting again. Oh well, I'm just gonna get it started and take it over to the mechanic. I'm in an apartment, and it is too difficult to work on the car here, not to mention I need the car for driving on Monday.
Thanks guys.

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Don't cave!!! Seriously, if you follow that check list I gave you above, you will find the problem!!!

When my car wouldn't start it was cause the Nuetral Safety Switch wire was rusted through. A simply wire, cause all my problems.