Starting Engine For First Time

C

CarlF250

New Member
Apr 8, 2005
59
0
0
Chicago
#1
Okay, what do I need to know about starting my 66 289 for the first time?
The engine was rebuilt a few years ago with aftermarket aluminum heads, aftermarket carb, intake, and cam.

Is it true that I should not use synthetic motor oil for the first time? Does it
matter which way the oil pump primer rod rotates?

I replaced the coolant, auto trans fluid and replaced about half the specified capacity of power steering fluid because I wasnt sure if adding too much could damage the pump. Will it? My P.S. pump doesnt have a fill level dipstick.
How much should I put in?

Since the engine was rebuilt such a long time ago, are there any other special pre-lube procedures I need to perform?

Thank You,
Carl
 
#2
PS pump will usually just puke out the excess fluid. Breaking cam in and such your supposed to run regular oil with no detergents or anything. Reverse the drill when you prime it (counter clockwise) just like the firing order on the cap.
 
#3
CarlF250 said:
1.)Is it true that I should not use synthetic motor oil for the first time?

2.) Does it
matter which way the oil pump primer rod rotates?

3.) I replaced the coolant, auto trans fluid and replaced about half the specified capacity of power steering fluid because I wasnt sure if adding too much could damage the pump. Will it? My P.S. pump doesnt have a fill level dipstick. How much should I put in?

4.) Since the engine was rebuilt such a long time ago, are there any other special pre-lube procedures I need to perform?
Click to expand...

1.) True. Just use regular petroleum engine oil for the break-in. I personally don't recommend synthetic anyway, but I don't want this to be a flame-fest either, so I won't go there.

2.) Yes, counter-clockwise looking at the top of the engine.

3.) Sorry, no idea.

4.) I assume the cam is a flat tappet and was installed with lots of nice cam lube on the lobes, right?
 
#4
65ShelbyClone, the camshaft is a Melling MTF-1. I dont know if its a flat tappet or not. I''m sorry, I dont know what that is. I did not install the cam, the machine shop did that when they rebuilt the engine. I do remember seeing alot of red assembly lube on the cam through the lifter holes though.

I checked Melling's web site and it said: "Do not allow the engine to run under 1500 rpm for the first 20 minutes. The first few minutes of the engine operation are the most critical and tests have shown that if there is no metal pickup or spalling during this period, the camshaft will wear as long as other engine components."
 
#5
Run the engine at 2000-2500 and vary the RPM. I would recommend using rotella t for break-in. Apperently many other oil companies changed their additives and shell still has the properties needed for break in. When you prime it, spin the oil pump until you hit resistence an then some. Change the oil after break in but dont switch to synthetic until about 500 miles.
 
#6
CarlF250 said:
65ShelbyClone, the camshaft is a Melling MTF-1. I dont know if its a flat tappet or not. I''m sorry, I dont know what that is. I did not install the cam, the machine shop did that when they rebuilt the engine. I do remember seeing alot of red assembly lube on the cam through the lifter holes though.

I checked Melling's web site and it said: "Do not allow the engine to run under 1500 rpm for the first 20 minutes. The first few minutes of the engine operation are the most critical and tests have shown that if there is no metal pickup or spalling during this period, the camshaft will wear as long as other engine components."
Click to expand...


Yes, sounds like a flat tappet.

A word of caution, Carl, keep the engine RPM over 2000 for the recommended 20 minutes time. I also keep a water hose handy to doose the radiator should the motor get hot during that run in. It is OK to shut the engine off during that breaking time, if you need to, but you must immediatly return to 2000rpm's as soon as you restart the engine. No idleing allowed until after the break-in.

Also don't just let it run at only 2000rpm's the whole 20 minutes. Periodically vary the rpm, such as run it at 2500 for a few minutes, and then dropping back to 2000. Never under 2000.

Timing can be check at 2000RPM to make sure it is not over 36 degrees advance with the vacuum advance disconnected. Ignore carb adjustments if there is not an "emergency" type situation until after the break-in.

For break-in, use Rotella T motor oil because it has lots of zinc in it. Zinc is good where metal parts rub together, and especially for camshaft break-in. You should also go to your local GM dealer and get a bottle of EOS (an engine assembly supplement--about $9.) It is fortified with Zinc and is highly recommended.
 
#9
dennis112 said:
That will be fine. Just make sure that it doesn't say "synthetic" on it, as there is a synthetic version too. It would say it on the front label in big letters just above the weight.
Click to expand...

The price will give it away too. Petroleum Rotella shouldn't be more than $10/gallon. Synthetic will be at least double that.

I have a few questions of my own. Is Shell the only one that still has more zinc and less moly? I switch back and forth between Rotella, Delo, Delvac, and Tection for my bike depending on what's on sale. I thought all the diesel oils were similar. Also, are any of them even available in weights other than 15w-40?
 
#10
65ShelbyClone said:
I have a few questions of my own. Is Shell the only one that still has more zinc and less moly? I switch back and forth between Rotella, Delo, Delvac, and Tection for my bike depending on what's on sale. I thought all the diesel oils were similar. Also, are any of them even available in weights other than 15w-40?
Click to expand...

Actually lots of oils have high zinc content. I just pass on the Rotella T brand because it is readily available and most recommended.

See post #10 in the below link for a chart with various oils and their zinc (and molly) amounts.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=645920&highlight=zinc
 
#13
Will removing a valve cover cause oil to squirt all over the place?

When I prime the engine, how long should I do it for? A few seconds? A minute?

By the way I bought the oil pump primer kit at Napa today. It has 3 rods: 2 Ford and 1 GM.
 
#14
How will I know if my timing is off when I first start it?
The distributor was not marked before removing it.

I was also wondering if I should remove the power steering belt during the initial break in so it will be one less thing to worry about for now.

Thanks,
Carl
 
#15
Oil shouldn't squirt anywhere if the engine isn't running. It will just flow out of the pushrods and over the rockers.

On priming, if you take the covers off, you've primed it long enough when oil comes out of the rockers. Really just getting the oil pressure up is enough.

Edit: in a sticky situation you can pull the sparkplugs and just crank the engine over until you get oil pressure. I personally made a great priming shaft out of a TFI dstributor, though.
 
#17
Do it until you see oil flowing at the pushrods or get some pressure on the guage.

Do not continue to prime it after you "strike oil" as it will tend to wash the break-in lube off the cam. You are just trying to get oil in all the passages for startup--beyond that you are not helping anything.

As for the distributor, put the engine on the compression stroke (blows your finger away from #1 spark plug hole when cranking AND the crank timing marks show TDC.) Then install the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1 plug wire.
 
#18
To add to the last comment, not only should you remove #1 plug and have someone "bump" the starter, but once your thumb is pushed away by compression, look to make sure your damper's timing mark for TDC is actually at TDC. If not use a breaker bar or other means to get it at TDC, then install your distributer with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire position. Also, to keep from having to wait for the dry carb to get gas, use a small bottle to fill the carb full of gas. Simply squirt a bit into the bowl vents and you'll be fine.
 
#19
zookeeper said:
To add to the last comment, not only should you remove #1 plug and have someone "bump" the starter, but once your thumb is pushed away by compression, look to make sure your damper's timing mark for TDC is actually at TDC. If not use a breaker bar or other means to get it at TDC, then install your distributer with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire position. Also, to keep from having to wait for the dry carb to get gas, use a small bottle to fill the carb full of gas. Simply squirt a bit into the bowl vents and you'll be fine.
Click to expand...

In the Haynes Mustang Manual, it says for Initial ignition timing "Continue turning the engine until the crankshaft pulley is in line with the pointer." For a 1966 289 V8, the spec for Initial timing (static degrees BTDC) is 6. So I would assume that I should line up the 6 on the crankshaft pulley to the pointer. Is this correct?

Thank you guys for answering all of my questions. I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
 
#20
Yup. But remember, we're just trying to get it close enough to fire up as quickly as possible so you don't grind the starter and battery and cam to death trying to start the car. "Close enough" is just fine for intial start-up, since you'll likely need to fine tune everything once the cam has been run-in after the first 15-20 minutes.
 
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