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Starting Issue...Need Help Please

  • Thread starter Thread starter 85foxman
  • Start date Start date Mar 24, 2013
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85foxman

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Nov 24, 2012
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Mar 24, 2013
#1
  • Mar 24, 2013
  • #1
Ok here's the deal...I have an 85 GT that I just put a fresh 306 into...it started and run great so I took it for a drive and as I was out driving I stepped down on the gas one time and it "stuttered"...then ran like crap, backfiring through the exhaust, and VERY hard starting...acts like its way out of time...the engine has the E303 cam, Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, Edelbrock RPM Performer intake, 1" Carb spacer, shorty headers, o/r H pipe, Magnaflo mufflers, and it also has a EBay distributor with the ignition control module mounted on the side of the distributor...I've set TDC a hundred times checking the piston physically to make sure its at TDC and both valves are closed...all the timing marks match up great...I can get it to start and run but I have to manually turn the distributor for it to start then turn it back to have it idle...the position of the distributor when it will idle will not work to start the car...the vacuum advance seems to be working cuz if I take it off it runs very rough if at all...any ideas or suggestions are welcome...I am very frustrated with this...I've been working at this for almost a month now...thanks for any and all info.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
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Mar 25, 2013
#2
  • Mar 25, 2013
  • #2
im guessing bad ebay distributor
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
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Mar 25, 2013
#3
  • Mar 25, 2013
  • #3
madspeed said:
im guessing bad ebay distributor
Click to expand...

What he said ^^^

I've seen a lot of problems with several cheap distributors, the most recent one had a problem in the advance weights. I actually had to grind the cams on a belt sander to get all of the advance out of the thing like it should have had to begin with.
 

85foxman

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Nov 24, 2012
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Mar 25, 2013
#4
  • Mar 25, 2013
  • #4
Is there anyway I can test the distributor
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
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Mar 25, 2013
#5
  • Mar 25, 2013
  • #5
pictures are helpful, take one with the rotor off of the springs and weights if you can. that's where i've seen a lot of problems with the timing advance. it may be advancing, but how much?
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Mar 25, 2013
#6
  • Mar 25, 2013
  • #6
What about the wires not on the right firing order? It would be easy to check.
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
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Mar 25, 2013
#7
  • Mar 25, 2013
  • #7
7991LXnSHO said:
What about the wires not on the right firing order? It would be easy to check.
Click to expand...
1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 if it has the E cam in it. Worth double checking like you said.
 

85foxman

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Mar 25, 2013
#8
  • Mar 25, 2013
  • #8
Wires and firing order are correct...it was late when I got home so I'll try and get a pic of the distributor with the cap and rotor removed tomorrow.
 

jrichker

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Mar 26, 2013
#9
  • Mar 26, 2013
  • #9
Backfiring is a sign of a lean mixture or an incorrectly wired distributor. Look for vacuum leaks and fuel delivery problems. Just because it has a carb doesn't mean that these things can't happen to you.

Putting the distributor back in and setting the timing.


You can forget about anything beyond this point if you don't have access to a timing light. You will never get the timing set right without one.



Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.
If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that there is no such thing as one tooth off on a 5.0 Mustang. If it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.


Setting the timing:
Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.

10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.

Note: setting the timing beyond the 10 degree mark will give you a little more low speed acceleration. BUT you will need to run 93 octane to avoid pinging and engine damage. Pinging is very hard to hear at full throttle, so it could be present and you would not hear it.

Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.

ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC
---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.

The ' is 2 degrees.
The ! is TDC
The ' is 10 degrees BTC
Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side to get 10 degrees.

To get 14 degrees, set it 7 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 7 marks towards the driver's side to get 14 degrees.

The paint marks you make are your friends if you do it correctly. They are much easier to see that the marks machined into the harmonic balancer hub.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.

Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT
Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.

Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

 

85foxman

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Mar 27, 2013
#10
  • Mar 27, 2013
  • #10
Here are a couple pics of the distributor with cap and rotor removed

 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
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Mar 27, 2013
#11
  • Mar 27, 2013
  • #11
Have you followed jrichker's checklist yet?
 

85foxman

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Nov 24, 2012
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Southwest Wisconsin
Mar 27, 2013
#12
  • Mar 27, 2013
  • #12
I have set and reset the timing about 6 or 7 times...I have checked the firing order...I have checked to make sure valves are shut with #1 piston at TDC...cleaned the ground connections...checked all connections for the starter and battery...I have not checked for vacuum leaks cuz it takes 2 people to start it (gotta cross the solenoid and turn the distributor counterclockwise to get it to start and then quickly clockwise so it will run and run the throttle) and I have no help until the weekend...I've burned up 2 brand new solenoids cuz it brings the starter down so low trying to start...I'm kind of out of ideas on what to do to solve this...it ran flawless before I drove it and it had its hiccup...thanks for all the help everyone...its greatly appreciated
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
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Mar 27, 2013
#13
  • Mar 27, 2013
  • #13
What has changed since the last time it has ran correctly?
 

85foxman

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Nov 24, 2012
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Southwest Wisconsin
Mar 27, 2013
#14
  • Mar 27, 2013
  • #14
The first post explains it...everything in the engine is new with the exception of the camshaft and heads...all new bearings, rods, pistons, rings, timing chain and gears, new intake and carburetor...it ran great and I took it for a drive to start getting some miles on the motor...I ran it very reserved for about 6 miles and then I was pulling out onto a hwy from a stop and gave it some throttle to get going and it stuttered and that's when it started running bad and not starting.
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
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South Jersey
Mar 27, 2013
#15
  • Mar 27, 2013
  • #15
Have you gone over the valve adjustment at all since then? Do you have any bent push rods?
 

85foxman

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Nov 24, 2012
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Southwest Wisconsin
Mar 27, 2013
#16
  • Mar 27, 2013
  • #16
No I havent done any valve adjustments...I will look into it..thanks...if it had a bent push rod wouldn't it tick or something?
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
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Mar 27, 2013
#17
  • Mar 27, 2013
  • #17
not neccessarily
 

85foxman

Member
Nov 24, 2012
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Southwest Wisconsin
Apr 1, 2013
#18
  • Apr 1, 2013
  • #18
Well I'm gonna tear the front of the motor down to double check the chain to make sure everything is lined up...hopefully find an answer to my issues...I'll post any findings as soon as I can...thanks again for all the help and info.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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Apr 1, 2013
#19
  • Apr 1, 2013
  • #19
MSD box?
 

85foxman

Member
Nov 24, 2012
51
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Southwest Wisconsin
Apr 1, 2013
#20
  • Apr 1, 2013
  • #20
It don't have one mikestang
 
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