Starting my T-5 swap, finally.

[bdepedro]

Ok, so my T-5 trans has been sitting in the garage for almost 2 years now and since I think I broke either my clutch fork or pressure plate, it's finally time to put it in! I was going to have a professional do the work who has done a number of swaps before but he recently injured his back to the point of having to sell his shop. So, I started to think about who else I would have do the work and then thought, "hell, I'll just do it myself". So here goes.

I got most of my parts from Modern Driveline and just sent Bruce an e-mail to finalize any remaining parts. I have a '70 sportsroof w/ a modified 289 and a 4spd toploader. I'm planning on using a late model bellhousing w/ my original mechanical clutch linkage. This is what I already have:

World Class T-5 w/ shifter

New Centerforce clutch and pressure plate

New Late model bellhousing w/ fulcrum adapter mounted

crossmember

trans mount

block plate

speedo cable and gear

flywheel and pressure plate bolt kit

If I remember correctly, my current yoke should fit the T-5 but I will need to have my drive shaft shortened. I have also read that a '91 or later Aerostar yoke and shaft can but used if the shaft is also shortened. Would this be worth doing if I wanted to upgrade to an alum shaft? Or, is there another vehicle that would have the right length shaft already?

The new clutch and pressure plate I have is for a late model 5.0. Should I change my flywheel to a late model as well and then do I need to worry about harmonic balancer compatability? Also, I guess I would then use a late model starter as well.?

Also, I'm asssuming I would still use an early throwout bearing. since I'm using the original linkage and fork.

While I am rounding those up I will go ahead and pull the toploader out and get anything else ready. I'll keep you all posted on my progress but any advice would be welcomed.

 

[grainboy]

Your flywheel will need to be late model, but with 28 0z imbalance. I would dump the stock linkage and use the cable conversion from Mustang Steve. Other than exhaust header clearances, I dont see the downside. I have had the cable for 2 years, and has not let me down. Not sure about throwout bearing, but it wouldnt surprise me if it was the same as a new one. Your current starter will work. I dont think yo need to change the speedo cable, just the gear. T5 speedo gears turn opposite of toploader 4 speeds. You will definitely enjoy overdrive.

 

[tx65coupe]

I agree about dumping the Z bar for a clutch cable. I have the Modern Driveline one and really am pleased with it.

When we did this we used 2 pairs of ramps to lift the whole car. That helped out alot. We turned the ramps to the front and back so we had room in the center.

I got an aluminum driveshaft from Inland Empire Drivetrain. They included Spicer yoke and U joints. That turned out great.

 

[bdepedro]

Thanks for the comments guys. The main reason I was planning on keeping the mech linkage was cost. I do have long tube headers and was also worried about the clearance issues. Sounds like you both agree on the cable though so I should take another look before I commit to keeping the mech linkage. It would make sense that a late model throwout would be used w/ a cable and early w/ mech. How does the 28oz imbalance effect the linkage choice? If I went w/ a cable I wouldn't need to have a fulcrum adapter on the bell would I? In terms of starters, wouldn't the vintage of the flywheel determine that? Good idea on the ramps, I'll definitely do that. Will get the car at a better height than jack stands.

I'll probably start getting the car ready to pull the toploader next weekend. Thanks for the input!

 

[PoppyMod]

Thanks for the comments guys. The main reason I was planning on keeping the mech linkage was cost. I do have long tube headers and was also worried about the clearance issues. Sounds like you both agree on the cable though so I should take another look before I commit to keeping the mech linkage. It would make sense that a late model throwout would be used w/ a cable and early w/ mech. How does the 28oz imbalance effect the linkage choice? If I went w/ a cable I wouldn't need to have a fulcrum adapter on the bell would I? In terms of starters, wouldn't the vintage of the flywheel determine that? Good idea on the ramps, I'll definitely do that. Will get the car at a better height than jack stands.

I'll probably start getting the car ready to pull the toploader next weekend. Thanks for the input!

Hi,
Did this conversion last spring only I had a C4 previousley. I bought all of my parts from Modern , as I believe, with compatibility and one stop shopping, you have less problems. I used the rollerized heavy duty "Z" bar, again, from Modern. As my resto-mod is a 64.5, I didn't like that cable winding around in my engine compartment. As I'm running the TRI-Ys, there was the additioanl headache of the routing be ing a heat related problem, but, that was the concern as much as it was the big loop it makes.
Have available one of those small floor jacks, as it will come handy when you need to wiggle the T5 home to the meet with the engine plate.
Also, I did not have to shorten my drive shaft, Bruce has the parameters. I think if the centerline of your yokes is like 49.5 - 51", you'll be fine. Mine was 50.5-51", or so.
Happy Motoring!

 

[bdepedro]

Those are the same concerns I have w/ the cable except I have long tube headers. I'll also have to check out the roller z-bar then. Sounds like it is a roller bearing as opposed to a bushing type of mechanism.

 

[PoppyMod]

Those are the same concerns I have w/ the cable except I have long tube headers. I'll also have to check out the roller z-bar then. Sounds like it is a roller bearing as opposed to a bushing type of mechanism.

Here's a pic of what I used, It is nice and it ain't bending:

 

[Loup-garou]

Those are the same concerns I have w/ the cable except I have long tube headers. I'll also have to check out the roller z-bar then. Sounds like it is a roller bearing as opposed to a bushing type of mechanism.

I was going to stay with the Z-bar on my '65 too, as it had served well enough for years (a good trick is to drill and tap a hole on the bottom of the main cross-tube, adding a zerk which points to the ground. Double-up the thick felt washers on the ends and pump that thing full of grease). Due to the "While I'm at it..." factor, I decided the more modern cable linkage made more sense because it clears the way for both a Mustang Steve power brake conversion and the Borgeson power steering box, hoses and fittings. Planning ahead, y'know.

 

[tx65coupe]

The Z bar works fine. I just like the cable better. As far as long tube headers go, the Z bar would probably be a better fit than the cable. Most long tubes don't work well with clutch cables. I have the JBA mid length headers. They are longer than shorties.

 

[bdepedro]

It does seem that most people using a cable go with shorties and I figured fitment was the reason. I'm ok with the feel of the z-bar and maybe the roller upgrade will improve it. Sent a message to Bruce at Modern Driveline for some info since I didn't see it on his web site.

Thanks again guys for all your help. Always good to have the benefit of other people's experiences.

 

[67GTFB]

I did a T5 swap this Spring and stayed with the z-bar/stock clutch linkage .... you'll need the older style release bearing, not the one for a cable fork as the bearings are different .... had to shorten the stock driveshaft 1" - but this seems to be highly vehicle dependent .... the toploader yoke works with the T-5 ..... the toploader speedo cable is longer than it needs to be as the speedo cable hole on the T-5 is on the driver's side, not on passenger like the toploader .... I'd order a new T-5 speedo cable from MD whilst you're at it .... the new speedo gear will have to be matched to your rear ratio and rear tire size .... the MD cross member is a stout piece, but I expereinced clearance issues with the H-pipe on a JBA kit (with shorties) .... crossover pipe needed to be 1 inch further aft to clear the MD crossmember, so we had to chop the crossover pipe off and clamp over the holes (ugly but functional and messed up the exhaust note too -- bummer!) .... you may also find shifter-trans tunnel clearance issues if you use an after market performance shifter such as a Pro5 Power Tower ..... the stock T-5 shifter should work without clearance problems .... but the shift handle may be an inch forward and right from the stock toploader shift handle position ..... an issue I had with the T-5 was that the OEM shifter boot (bellows style) and the carpet with hole in stock position created too much rearward push on the shifter lever (an OEM-look-alike) that the T-5 would jump out of first or third .... fixed that by cutting the carpet back and using a newer style "bag" boot but with the old style mounting hole pattern ..... now it stays in gear all the time -- that problem was a side benefit of having a smooth and easy shifting tranny -- unlike the toploader .... and you'll need to rig up a backup light switch connector as the pigtail on the T-5 as delivered is for the "neutral" switch .... a new T-5 bell with fulcrum block is the way to go versus OEM bell with spacer (yeah, that works but ---) .... good luck -- you'll enjoy the T-5 especially if you'll run a 3.55+ rear ..... mine is a 3.55 with True-Trak that's perfect for my kind of driving and engine that loves to run at 2K+ ....

 

[bdepedro]

67GTFB, that is exactly how I'm currently set up to do the swap. I did look into the roller z/bar kit but it's like $265 or so I don't know. I'll get a new early model throw out bearing and see how my flywheel looks when I pull the toploader. I know that I'll probably have to cut about 1" off my drive shaft if I use my old yoke but I'm trying to see what vehicles also used the 28 spline yoke and came w/ an alum shaft that might bolt right up. I'll probably install the trans, measure the required shaft length and then hit the junk yard. I know that I can use a late model yoke as well but is that supposed to negate cutting your stock driveshaft?

 

[PoppyMod]

67GTFB, that is exactly how I'm currently set up to do the swap. I did look into the roller z/bar kit but it's like $265 or so I don't know. I'll get a new early model throw out bearing and see how my flywheel looks when I pull the toploader. I know that I'll probably have to cut about 1" off my drive shaft if I use my old yoke but I'm trying to see what vehicles also used the 28 spline yoke and came w/ an alum shaft that might bolt right up. I'll probably install the trans, measure the required shaft length and then hit the junk yard. I know that I can use a late model yoke as well but is that supposed to negate cutting your stock driveshaft?

I would hold off with the drive shaft until you are ready to install it. Then take the measurement. I have instructions on how to to take a proper measurement, but, it's too big for upload. Google for Denny's Drive shaft, there's instruction on his site.
If your "Z" bar is good, just, clean it up and rebuild it for now.
Good Luck!

 

[67GTFB]

ditto on the d/s chop .... wait until you have it all together save the d/s then check for length .... the T-5 doesn't help the d/s length issue vs the OEM toploader yoke .... when it's all done you should have about 1" of space between the rear edge of the dust boot (not the tailhousing) and the yoke with the rear in normal standing position (not drooped or hanging from a lift or something) -- but you'll figure this out I'm sure .... also suggest staying with the z-bar until you've had a chance to break it all in -- then decide if you can't stand it and opt to convert to a cable (but that will require almost a complete tear-down to change to a cable fork!!) .... also don't hack the cable mount off the T-5 bell housing -- trim off only as much as needed to get clearance on the clutch push rod .... you'll really want that tab if you elect to go cable .... whilst you're at it, don't forget to seal the flywheel bolts if you have a 5.0 crank that has through holes .... cheers -- 67GTFB

 

[PoppyMod]

ditto on the d/s chop .... wait until you have it all together save the d/s then check for length .... the T-5 doesn't help the d/s length issue vs the OEM toploader yoke .... when it's all done you should have about 1" of space between the rear edge of the dust boot (not the tailhousing) and the yoke with the rear in normal standing position (not drooped or hanging from a lift or something) -- but you'll figure this out I'm sure .... also suggest staying with the z-bar until you've had a chance to break it all in -- then decide if you can't stand it and opt to convert to a cable (but that will require almost a complete tear-down to change to a cable fork!!) .... also don't hack the cable mount off the T-5 bell housing -- trim off only as much as needed to get clearance on the clutch push rod .... you'll really want that tab if you elect to go cable .... whilst you're at it, don't forget to seal the flywheel bolts if you have a 5.0 crank that has through holes .... cheers -- 67GTFB

+1 on the flywheel bolts. This applies to 289/302 early gens. as well.
Happy Motoring!

 

[bdepedro]

Yeah, I was planning on installing the trans before I cut/bought a driveshaft as I've been told that the measurement is hard to calculate beforehand. Thanks for all the other advice, it's a huge help to have the insight of the folks that have already done this upgrade.

 

[68stang351]

Well, your circumstances and applications may be slightly different, but here's what I did. I converted from a 200 I6 3 speed to a 351w T5 combo. All I did tranny wise, was use the correct balance flywheel for a 10.5 clutch, a late model fox mustang bellhousing, T5, clutch kit , and clutch fork, with a california pony cars crossmember, and a JMC cable conversion kit with shorty headers.

I know there are other combos that work, but this is what has lasted for me for the last 9 years, and I beat the hell out my car. I've had a big fat ZERO problems with this setup.

 

[nugget68]

Well, your circumstances and applications may be slightly different, but here's what I did. I converted from a 200 I6 3 speed to a 351w T5 combo. All I did tranny wise, was use the correct balance flywheel for a 10.5 clutch, a late model fox mustang bellhousing, T5, clutch kit , and clutch fork, with a california pony cars crossmember, and a JMC cable conversion kit with shorty headers.

I know there are other combos that work, but this is what has lasted for me for the last 9 years, and I beat the hell out my car. I've had a big fat ZERO problems with this setup.

I am going to be doing this swap soon too, I am trying to figure out the flywheel...I have a Zoom Clutch that is still good that came with the T5 out of a 92 GT, I am under the impression I have to get a specific flywheel for this clutch since it came from the late model, rather than buying just a 157 tooth 28oz flywheel for my 68...what year clutch is yours, is it for the 68 or for the year your T5 came out of?

 

[bdepedro]

From what I've been told, the flywheel imbalance is based upon your engine, not the trans and the teeth has more to do w/ the starter. I have a 289 and was told a 28oz imbalance is what I need and if you're using a late model clutch then you need a 10.4" clutch pattern and a 157 tooth ring if you're using a late model starter. This is what I've been told, can someone confirm this? Thanks

 

[68stang351]

I am going to be doing this swap soon too, I am trying to figure out the flywheel...I have a Zoom Clutch that is still good that came with the T5 out of a 92 GT, I am under the impression I have to get a specific flywheel for this clutch since it came from the late model, rather than buying just a 157 tooth 28oz flywheel for my 68...what year clutch is yours, is it for the 68 or for the year your T5 came out of?

My clutch is a stock replacement set for a fox mustang, like 87-93. My flywheel is billet steel unit I bought from Dallas Mustang for a 10.5 clutch.