still can't get rid of misfire!

Mike97gt · Mar 31, 2006

RandyStinchcomb said:
not really, I would drop 1 heat range and do not do platinums. get a set of Motorcraft AGSF-22C-F6 gap them at .050

now the new plugs will be of the "full thread" design which replaces the old "1/2 thread" design plug, not to worrie it will work just fine.

if your dealer can't get you the plugs, let me know as we have plenty at $1.95 each

+1 If you go to a local ford dealer to get them I would walk in with this part number that way you know for sure you will get the right plug.

triggz · Mar 31, 2006

stangGT97 said:
I'll definitely keep you guys updated. I'm going this afternoon to pick up stock replacement Motorcraft Platinum plugs. Randy or Mike, any idea what the stock replacement plug part # is for a 1997 GT? I don't want to end up with the wrong ones. If I go to the dealer they should know though, right?

Autolite is the same thing as Motorcraft, just so you know...

If you're running autolite 764's, i highly doubt theyre causing the problem.

stangGT97 · Mar 31, 2006

Guys, why would I want to run a heat range colder? What are the advantages? I'm not really modded or anything, I thought you ran colder plugs with FI. I ended up getting a set of 8 of AGSF32-FM, which are full thread platinums and are the ones that were in the car when I bought it. I kept my receipt in case you think I should just return them and get diff. ones

edit - double checked www.motorcraft.com and they have AGSF32-FM listed as the required plug for me car, so Autozone didn't give me the wrong ones. I went to the dealer to check if they had coil packs there, but they closed at 4:30 (yeah, I got there at 4:31 haha). They are open tomorrow and are right down the street from AZ if I have to go and get the 1 range colder plugs.

triggz · Mar 31, 2006

stangGT97 said:
Guys, why would I want to run a heat range colder? What are the advantages? I'm not really modded or anything, I thought you ran colder plugs with FI. I ended up getting a set of 8 of AGSF32-FM, which are full thread platinums and are the ones that were in the car when I bought it. I kept my receipt in case you think I should just return them and get diff. ones

You dont..stock heat range is fine. I run 1 step cooler for nitrous..

Shiroelex · Mar 31, 2006

I had a problem like this crop up right after I did a tuneup on a cougar. I had a set of Bosch 8mm wires on there, that had been on for about 3500 miles, that were completely bad already. Replaced them, and the car still chugged a little. We started the car at night, and sprayed a mist of water around everything, and discovered that one of the coil packs was making a fireworks show. Replaced that, and it seemed better, but not 100%. A can of Sea Foam fixed everything else. Try the water mist trick, and see if you see any sparks. If none show, then take the coils off, and take 'em up to Autozone, and have them test the coils' resistances. If you don't want to take them to the store, and have a multimeter, I can tell you how to test them, and what resistances they should be.

If the coils check out fine, take a look at the plugs. See if any of them have any funny looking deposits on them (oil, white crud, etc.). If all of them look fine, then we will come up with more crap to check!

stangGT97 · Mar 31, 2006

Shiroelex said:
I had a problem like this crop up right after I did a tuneup on a cougar. I had a set of Bosch 8mm wires on there, that had been on for about 3500 miles, that were completely bad already. Replaced them, and the car still chugged a little. We started the car at night, and sprayed a mist of water around everything, and discovered that one of the coil packs was making a fireworks show. Replaced that, and it seemed better, but not 100%. A can of Sea Foam fixed everything else. Try the water mist trick, and see if you see any sparks. If none show, then take the coils off, and take 'em up to Autozone, and have them test the coils' resistances. If you don't want to take them to the store, and have a multimeter, I can tell you how to test them, and what resistances they should be.

If the coils check out fine, take a look at the plugs. See if any of them have any funny looking deposits on them (oil, white crud, etc.). If all of them look fine, then we will come up with more crap to check!

awesome, thanks for the advice man! I got my new plugs, which I am putting in tomorrow. If that doesn't help, I will get a spray bottle and do the water mist trick to see if I have any electrical shorts. I'm not sure if the autozone around me checks CPs but I will call and ask. Thanks!

stangGT97 · Apr 1, 2006

Brute03 · Apr 2, 2006

triggz said:
Autolite is the same thing as Motorcraft, just so you know...

If you're running autolite 764's, i highly doubt theyre causing the problem.

well i think that solves one of my problems, the guy a NAPA gave me autolite 765's what's the diff between the two?

CanadaStang · Apr 2, 2006

Brute03 said:
well i think that solves one of my problems, the guy a NAPA gave me autolite 765's what's the diff between the two?

The 765 would be 1 heat range hotter than stock.

stangGT97 · Apr 2, 2006

Ok so the plugs I got (AGSF-32F-MF4, the plug listed on Motorcraft.com) will not thread into my head? I don't get it, what could be causing this?

Kilgore Trout · Apr 2, 2006

stangGT97 said:
Ok so the plugs I got (AGSF-32F-MF4, the plug listed on Motorcraft.com) will not thread into my head? I don't get it, what could be causing this?

The correct plug is AGSF-32C or AGSF-32PM or AGSF-32PP

I believe what you got (AGSF-32F-MF4) are truck plugs...

stangGT97 · Apr 2, 2006

Kilgore Trout said:
The correct plug is AGSF-32C or AGSF-32PM or AGSF-32PP

I believe what you got (AGSF-32F-MF4) are truck plugs...

balltastic - thanks autozone! Why would Motorcraft.com have the wrong plugs listed though? thats kinda weird

Kilgore Trout · Apr 2, 2006

This is what I get when I check the site for plugs for my car

Select Part Number Part Description Qty Per Vehicle Buyers
Guide
AGSF32PM Suppressor Spark Plug
PLATINUM - NICKEL PLATED SHELL - X ENG CODE - 16 VALVE 8
AGSF32WM Suppressor Spark Plug
SINGLE PLATINUM - IRIDIUM ELECTRODE - V ENG CODE - 32 VALVE - COBRA 8
432WM Suppressor Spark Plug
SINGLE PLATINUM - IRIDIUM ELECTRODE - V ENG CODE - 32 VALVE - COBRA 8
493 Suppressor Spark Plug
PLATINUM - NICKEL PLATED SHELL - X ENG CODE - 16 VALVE
4 PACK 8
693 Suppressor Spark Plug
PLATINUM - NICKEL PLATED SHELL - X ENG CODE - 16 VALVE
6 PACK 8
AGSF32PMF4 Suppressor Spark Plug
PLATINUM - 2
SP413 Suppressor Spark Plug
NICKEL - 2

Kilgore Trout · Apr 2, 2006

This is what I get when I look up yours:

Select Part Number Part Description Qty Per Vehicle Buyers
Guide
AGSF32FM Suppressor Spark Plug
PLATINUM FINEWIRE - NICKEL PLATED SHELL 8
432 Suppressor Spark Plug
PLATINUM FINEWIRE - NICKEL PLATED SHELL
4 PACK 8
632FM Suppressor Spark Plug
PLATINUM FINEWIRE - NICKEL PLATED SHELL
6 PACK 8
AGSF32FMF4 Suppressor Spark Plug
PLATINUM - 2

stangGT97 · Apr 2, 2006

According to what I've read, the AWSF-32PP that my manual calls for has been phased out, replaced by the ones that I picked up AGSF32-FM. I don't understand why they won't thread though?

Kilgore Trout · Apr 2, 2006

http://www.bullittarchive.com/1021.htm

stangGT97 · Apr 2, 2006

yeah I read that. god this stuff is confusing! The thing that is weird is the original platinums that I had in the car when I bought it were the AGSF-32FM plugs, but now when I buy the same exact ones, they won't go in. Am I doing something wrong??

Kilgore Trout · Apr 2, 2006

Righty tighty, lefty loosey

Seriously though did you hold old and new up next to each other and compare threads?

stangGT97 · Apr 2, 2006

k well it turns out I had put the plug too far into my plug socket, so when I went to screw them in, the socket was getting in the way and keeping them from threading. New plugs are in, but the car is still misfiring. I'm pretty mad at myself that I made such a juvenile mistake... I can replace intake manifolds, do exhaust and suspension work, but I can't figure out that the socket is keeping the plug from going in. Ugh, what a moron I am sometimes

Mike97gt · Apr 3, 2006

at this point you need to do a compresion test. It's pretty common to have valve sealing issues causing a misfire. If you have a freidn at a ford dealer, see if you can use the WDS and do a relitive compression test. if that comes out normal do a injector flow test.

This stuff is easy to figure out in the shop. but HARD to figure out over the internet with no equipment to do tests.

this is like a blind guy trying to hit a fastball.

still can't get rid of misfire!

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