Still having problems missing, PLEASE HELP!!!

kpack5982 said:

So when I replaced my intake manifold the car has been running like crap, smells really rich and sounds like it is missing. Tried pulling codes. When engine off there is just 11 meaning it's alright, but when I try to pull codes when the engine is running when I connect the jumper the idle goes up and down, first up for 10 seconds then down and can't make up its mind. Then when I try to read the codes the test light does absolutely nothing, no blinking whatsoever. Please HELP!!!!!

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How did it run before the swap?

Only place you should have used silicone is on the water jacket openings. NONE around the intake runners. And yes, if you damaged an injector that could be part of it. I would set it up on TDC and see where your distributor is pointing. That's the easiest thing to check first.

i agree, usually you only have silicone around the water jackets, and if there was any silicone on any other areas it shouldn't be enough to squish out and block a port or something.......

i usually use some silicone under the gasket around the water jackets, because the head is usually slightly pitted there, but it's a thin coat......then another thin coat ill use on the manifold if it's pitted.....and then i'll sometimes use silicone instead of the end seals....

didn't you break a bolt off?? did you remove the manifold and fix that??

Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines, failed EGR vacuum regulator. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection coming from the intake manifold. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
Check for resistance between the brown/lt green wire on the EGR sensor and pin 27 on the computer: you should have less than 1 ohm.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif


EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.
connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
apply 5in vacuum to the valve.
if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 5in vacuum?

if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM.
should read about 5in vacuum

The operation of the EGR vacuum regulator can be checked by using a test light applied across the wiring connector. Jumper the computer into self test mode and turn the key on but do not start the engine. You will hear all the actuators (including the EVR vacuum regulator) cycle. Watch for the light to flicker: that means the computer has signaled the EGR vacuum regulator successfully.

kpack5982 said:

had a buddy come over and we're sure it's a vac leak. Exhaust has some gas on the floor under the dumps and pulled codes and found 41 and 91. Sounds like a vac leak too, too much air sound when we revved it up. Think the lower must have a leak. So when i apply silicone, I only have to on the lower gasket between the heads around where the coolant passages are? or around every runner on the intake? We're tearing her apart and starting fresh tomorrow evening.

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Just around the coolant passages is plenty.

I think JR missed the mention of the 41 and 91 codes. They are both HEGO sensors. You probably have a bad O2. 91 is supposedly the left bank. 41 is supposedly the right. 91 can also indicate shift solenoid, but I doubt that is the issue. Double check the O2 sensor ground at the back of the engine; an orange wire I think?

jrichker may have better details for you though.