STILL Overheating!!!

Could be a bad guage? Or if all the guages (except for the fuel) are kinda off at the same time, could be a bad ground.....Pull thermostat out completely, do the 30 min drive and see what guage does. If it still reads anything above rock bottom then I'd bet electrical, either guage itsef or ground.

Stock gauges can be off, put an aftermarket gauge if your really worried about it, these cars get hot anyways.. what was the outside temp when u did this? you might want to put a manual high speed fan switch in.

Thermostats are known for sticking and not opening properly. Like was said before pull it and see how it runs. Also, did you burp your radiator? There could be air pockets trapped in it and coolant isn't getting through the block like it should. To check, drive the car around till it gets hot. Then check out the radiator hoses. Touch them with your hand and if the lower hose(return) is colder than your upper hose, you have an air pocket in the radiator and you need to burp it out.

The factory gauge and even aftermarket electrical gauges can be way off if you have a bad chassis ground. The ECT is the the best source for measuring the actual engine temperature


temp voltage

180 0.714
190 0.615
200 0.530
210 0.457
220 0.396

The fan switch is a bad idea, the factory fan is marginal to begin with. Switching it from off to full speed is even harder on the fan and what's even more damaging is that if the ccrm turns on the low speed fan while you have the high speed running, the fan will draw about 50A and run slower.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=583713&highlight=switch

The converse is true with the low speed switch.

A DCC TempChip takes 15 minutes to install, will lower the fan set point by 15 degrees, and you'll still have both speeds and all of the factory fan functions

Mr Baskin - nice to see you post more over here. I will be running a DCC unit when the CCRM goes........

One question: You mentioned the SN fan leaves a little to be desired. Is it the fan (motor) itself, or ancillary issues? Seems to me that the venerable 3.8L Taurus fan motor is the same as the SN fan motor (correct?). That might make one think the recall-fan connector, stock fan threshold temps (which lead to the manual switches), etc might be what brings the SN fan down.

I guess I am asking if replacing an SN fan, it is any better to use a Taurus fan?

BTW, my bud just installed a second DC controller (he has one in his car too) in his wife's car - great stuff.

The motors definitely have different part numbers. I’ve also seen quite a few brush and bearing failures on the sn95 fan, where the Taurus motor seems to be just about bullet proof. I think you’re right that most of them are going from the switches, but one of my neighbors has got a ’95 without the switch, and the fan definitely lost the brushes (you could hear them before the motor finally died) The hub and mounting points look the same between the two, but I’ve never compared them side by side. Given the difference in reliability, it would be interesting to see if the Taurus motor could be used as a replacement motor, since they’re relatively inexpensive and easy to find.

The optimum set up for the 95 is a dcc 33212 in that it’s thin enough so that you can easily fit a fluidyne FHP20-95MU and it covers the entire radiator. The tc-15 with the stock fan isn’t nearly as nice of a setup, but it’s definitely better than the stock setup or running the switch.

Thanks Herr B.