The two engines definitely have different characters. The pushrod motor was rated 225HP@4000 and 300ftlbs@3000 where the modular was 260HP@5250 and 300ftlbs@4000.
That one thousand RPM difference in torque peaks really seems to be noticed by some...
My 225hp 89 LX with 273s feels faster from a stop than my 260hp 02 GT with 373s and a 93 octane race tune. The reason is the torque band is down low on the 5.0s. The 2v 4.6 is an absolute dog down low. They don't really start pulling until you rev them to about 3500 - 4000 rpm.
This is way too subjective. You need either a dyno run or two to show rwHP and/or you need to take it to a track and get a 1/4-mile time for it. A bone stock PI GT making 260HP at the crank is not really a fast car; many grocery-getters, family sedans and SUVs are making much more HP and are faster nowadays. Maybe your car is performing exactly as it should.
And a 1990 LX? Slower than a stock PI GT and I highly doubt they were capable of sideways-in-third-gear-smoking-the-tires type performance given that back in the day they ran 15-second quarter mile times stock, a full second behind the PI GT.
Your right...its not a good GT, you got one that was built on Monday after a holiday weekend. I will buck up and take a hit for the team. I'll give $500.00 to take this car off your hands so you don't have to deal with it anymore.
If I really thought there was a problem with my car, I wouldn't be posting on an internet forum about it, I'd be taking it to a dealer to be looked at. In person. By a professional. Who has seen 100's of cars just like mine.
I don't understand why people think you can solve their problem over the internet based on vague descriptions like "it doesn't accelerate very fast in 5th gear."
Now that said, not all Ford dealers are the same. I've dealt with one that was part of a nationwide group that owned all kinds of dealerships, and those guys were useless. But I could tell after five minutes in the waiting room, just listening to how they treated customers.
This is way too subjective. You need either a dyno run or two to show rwHP and/or you need to take it to a track and get a 1/4-mile time for it. A bone stock PI GT making 260HP at the crank is not really a fast car; many grocery-getters, family sedans and SUVs are making much more HP and are faster nowadays. Maybe your car is performing exactly as it should.
And a 1990 LX? Slower than a stock PI GT and I highly doubt they were capable of sideways-in-third-gear-smoking-the-tires type performance given that back in the day they ran 15-second quarter mile times stock, a full second behind the PI GT.
You ain't seen these con artist dealerships in Houston, Texas or you would certainly try to figure this out on your own, or with the help of all the guys here who know more about these cars than you might think. They own them, drive them, break them, fix them, and love the cars they work so hard on. It might not be so easy to figure out on the internet, but when you take a vehicle to a dealership to get a water pump changed and it costs you $1100, or maybe an injector and egr valve for a cost of $1400 you start to rethink your strategy a little. Unless of course money is no object...then you just bend over and take what you get.
Reading through this thread. IMO, some good points have been made. Some not so good points....
My 0.02 worth.
My car is a STOCK 2000 GT manual with the stock 3.27 rear end. Nothing special. Doing a 3000 RPM clutch dump lights the tires up for several seconds. Never done a 5k clutch dump but based upon what happens at 3k, I'm afraid it could get away from me.
The shift to 2nd starts the tires to spinning again (not as long).
What does yours do?
Try this. From 2nd gear and a rolling start, rev up to 2k RPM and then floor it. What happens?
Repeat the 2nd gear pull but start from 3500 RPM. Is there a night and day difference? If this doesn't snap your head back, then maybe your car is down on power.
Reminder. This is the tech section. Normally ppl are looking for help to fix/work on their own cars. There's no doubt about it, paying a professional to work on your car can be $$.
How you view car repairs is a personal choice. If $1100 for a water pump seems expensive (it does to me), then learning how to do the work yourself will save $$.
If on the other hand you just want to drive it, then repairs are just a fact of life.
I personally would never go back to anyplace that charged $1100 for a new water pump on a Mustang (was there "additional" work done at the same time?).
My recommendation. Tune up and compression test. If you can change spark plugs, you can do a compression test. The tool can be rented. This will give you some idea of the overall health of the motor.
How's the gas mileage? Does it use oil? Does it use coolant?
opcorn:
Clogged cats can cause poor performance.I am wondering if my catalytic converter is clogged up or obstructed somewhat? Would it cause this sort of poor performance while maintaining decent mpg?
Clogged cats can cause poor performance.
So could excessive EGR flow.
So could poor engine compression.
So could a dirty MAF.
So could clogged fuel injectors.
So could contaminated O2 sensors.
So could a bad IAT sensor.
Get the point? The above is just for example. Some are less/more likely than others to cause your symptom. It does rule out some items knowing the gas mileage is good and low overall mileage.
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